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Old 04-09-2018, 05:11 PM   #1
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Pour an Aerated Concrete Barn/House..


Plan..
Grade for foundation, compact, forms, pour foundation, pretty standard..

On top of the foundation make something like 10'X20'X8-10" forms with OSB and 2X materials..
Use 2X8's or 2X10s (wall thickness) to frame out my windows and doors..
Build the proper rectangle, screw it to the outside form, raise the outside form and inside form, screw inside form onto window/door frames..
Pour it, unscrew the form walls leaving the window/door frames in the wall..
Move 10'X20' form walls to next area, repeat..

I think something like 2 forms wide for the font and back and 3 long for the depth of each side.. So 20+20=40 wide and 20+20+20=60 long.. Maybe a bit smaller.. 3 car garage wide..

Probably 2 story, the front ground level 40X30 would be the garage with a slab floor eventually, rear 40X30 and upstairs 40X60 being living quarters..

8-10" of aircrete walls would yield around 2X code R value..
Do it right the first time this time and do 2x12s on 16-24" center for my roof so I can get code R value insulation in it easily.. Ridge beam style, like hew my own 8X8 beams out of trees or whatever size I need, Alaskan sawmill style or something.. Maybe support posts too..

Wall finishing options - Nothing/paint/stucco/plaster whatever..
That's the beauty of it!

The last house I built went like this in layers..
T111 siding, furring strips, foam board, 4X6 posts (pole barn) 2x4 framing, insulation, drywall, mud, paint.
Screw all that..
Layers of aircrete wall - Nothing, aircrete, nothing..
So simple!! Done from exterior to interior in one swipe other than aesthetics such as paint or plaster..

How will I wire a solid poured wall you may ask? Simply..
Put a dato/wide blade in a circular saw a little wider than the thin direction of house wire, set my depth 1/4"ish deeper than the wide ways of my house wire, run the saw down the inside of the wall, stuff muh wire in the slot, plaster over it.. Router/chisel out outlets and switches..
Pretty perfect because then you can just throw wire in whenever you want with little work compared to a stick built drywall thing, it can be done later down the road with a little plaster work..


Why? Cost..
I think I can make aerated concrete to pour much much cheaper per sq/ft than all of the layers of your typical stick built walls and it will be a superior product with much less complex building and finishing. Easier to make, superior insulating properties, plenty durable..

Help me figure out a way to get around having to buy a ton of 2x12s for floor joists and roof...

Land is ridiculously expensive, I think the market is overbought..
Building materials are ridiculously expensive, I want to make the stuff myself as much as possible.. I don't want to be that normie that picks their entire house out piece by piece at menards..

If I can build a $50,000 house in a year for $15,000, turning my time into value for myself I just made $35,000 that year, didn't pay taxes on it, money straight into my assets without playing the income hopscotch of income tax and sales tax and you just lost half your value before you got anything done.. So that $35k is more like $45-$50k all said and done.. The more value I can produce myself from thin air the better so if I can find any way to make it rather than buy it the better off I am..

Good scheme, AND I can pull off all my side hustles at the same time making enough income to sustain fine..
I have no debt so I don't need to flow a lot of cash and I have plenty of stuff..

Really what's going on here is I want to build this thing so it can be made into a pretty badass house in the future if/when I want and will be valuable to the property roughed in, but realistically what I am going to use it for is a place to put a whole lot of stuff for safe keeping..
Stash a whole house full of stuff so I can rent my current house out and stash my shop full of tools and equiptment in there, park 4 or so of my cars, a few of which I don't want to sell for at least another 5 years or so if ever, possibly even park my motorhome in it depending on what I do with that..
So I can take off to who knows where for a few years on a grand adventure and not worry about my stuff..

I already have land with electric and a well I can put this building..



So what are all the reasons that this won't work, that it's a bad plan, that it won't pass code, that it can't be done?

What do you think? What are more things to consider?
Why not?

Last edited by Eddie13; 04-09-2018 at 05:16 PM.
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Old 04-09-2018, 05:28 PM   #2
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Re: Pour an Aerated Concrete Barn/House..


Quote:
Grade for foundation, compact, forms, pour foundation, pretty standard.. What are more things to consider?
By foundation, I presume that you mean a slab, no cellar. What kind of footings do you plan to use? For a 2 story structure, consider ribbon footings.
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Old 04-09-2018, 08:31 PM   #3
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Re: Pour an Aerated Concrete Barn/House..


I'm confused (not uncommon). It's a lengthy post so I'll just drill into the points that jumped out at me.

- It sounds like you want to build a poured concrete structure. If I am correct, I would really like to see the video of this being done with OSB and 2x, especially in sections and especially for the 2-storey part.
- Have you engineered the slab foundation to the weigh of this structure? How will you tie the wall to the slab as well of each section of the pours together?
- Is there an engineer or building permit in your future, or are "hustle" and "stashing stuff" going to interfere with local oversight?
- I'll let the pros jump in, but I doubt it is legal to plaster cable into channels cut into concrete.
-
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Old 04-09-2018, 10:02 PM   #4
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Re: Pour an Aerated Concrete Barn/House..


Your ideas for how to install the electrical circuits aren't even close to meeting code requirements. The only way you can probably do it in me code is to embed conduit in the walls before you pour them. Then pulling wire afterwards.

I don't have a lot of concrete experience so I will comment on that side of the plan but getting building permits for this project could be interesting depending on what your local AHJ requires.
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