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possible stud and beam layout near the 1st floor ceiling

1K views 7 replies 3 participants last post by  jaykim 
#1 ·
I noticed the new termite kick-out holes and droppings right next the ceiling beam on the first floor of the 2 story town home.







Is it possible to guess the frames or studs around that area inside the drywall so that I can try treating the termite problem myself better using the Spectricide terminate termite killer? Or is it something that I should leave to the termite professionals because of complexity of the problem?

I usually treat the wood by drilling 3/32" holes at about 45 degree upward and toward the stud along the stud at every feet or so and by shooting up the Spectricide with the nozzle. But in this case I don't know the ceiling structure or wood beam layout so that my method may not work this time.

I attached photos so you can guess the the possible frames or wood layout inside the drywall.

Thank you very much.
 
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#3 ·
Search "house framing beam pocket" and I get plenty pictures. I think enough to give you a good idea. I think the only difference between diy and pro would be kind of chemical available, as long as diy has a good idea of where to treat. I think a termite around a main beam is a trouble critical enough that I may open up 6-12" of the drywall sides and top, including from the 2nd floor so I can remove the insulation and SOAK entire surface. From 2nd floor, then, also inspect the framing going up and look at the bsmt parts also. Look at the outside and look for possible entry points.


Also learn about termites. In nj and the only kind is from the ground. I think the main thing about termites is that they need moist environment and source of water/moisture. In nj, they build a tunnel from the ground. CA may have flying termites that don't buiild a tunnel? I may be confusing with carpenter ants.
 
#2 ·
The ceiling ( floor ) joist meet and overlap on top of the beam

The area below the beam will be filled with studs 3", 4 1/2", 6 inches.

There will be a king stud on one side and maybe both sides.


There maybe more studs in the proximity as they will be installed at 16" on center
 

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#4 ·
Thank you Nealtw and carpdad very much for the comments.

Nealtw, as usual, I thank you very much for your diagram and explanation. I noticed that there is a line gap at the top of the beam and the popcorn ceiling. I think in the past, there was no gap. Is it normal to have this gap as time goes by or is this something that signals a problem in the future?

carpdad, I really appreciate your suggestions, comments, and the words to search for. I think in CA, it is the dry wood termites, at least in my area. I think the outside the wall, there are shrubs and sprinkler right next to the stucco and the foundation so that the soil right next to the concrete base is damp all the time, and I think that is the cause of this termite problem. I requested HOA just now to move or remove the sprinkler and shrub away from the building foundation to prevent future termite problem.

As I suspected, this involves a lot of work. I am checking 2nd floor base also. I think I can remove some drywall right below the ceiling and treat, but I am not quite comfortable with removing popcorn ceiling and 2nd floor bottom. I am thinking if I can do this myself or should leave it to the professionals. If I do it myself and if I open up the drywall, I will apply the Boracare onto the beam and studs.

If you treat yourself, what do you soak the entire surface with? Also, what is the meaning of the " bsmt parts"? If you have any other suggestions, I would appreciate it very much.


Thank you.
 
#5 ·
Below the floor the studs in this wall have solid support all the way down to the foundation, so inspecting right to the foundation is what he meant by basement parts.

When I open drywall I leave 2 inches of the wall next to the ceiling with the hope I don't have to redo a corner where there is popcorn.
 
#6 ·
Thank you Nealtw very much for the answer and the valuable additional suggestion.

I am seriously thinking if I should hire professional because I do not have any knowledge or experience in this. If I do it myself and not do it right, it could be a penny wise and pound foolish.

But if the professionals do it, they would probably just treat the wood strategically from the outside using the holes and not inspect the base, floor, and other woods as you and carpdad mentioned. I am sure if that is enough or not to prevent further damage in the future.

Is there a company or service who checks status or soundness of the base, stud, beam, and other woods behind the drywall or would some termite companies do this kind of check?

Thank you very much.
 
#7 ·
https://www.orkin.com/termites/drywood-termites/western-drywood-termites


Names I see around me are above and terminix. These may be national or CA's own well known brands. I would ask for liability insurance or, because they dispense chemicals, some kind of registration with the state. I would actually call and confirm.



One good news, maybe, from above site. Yours may be western termites and they don't build huge colonies. More numbers equals more damage. Even then, I would open the wall at least (not the ceiling maybe because textures are harder to repair) and inspect. For physical damages. I would also get one of those usb microscopes and look at the frass (droppings). Turns out dry wood termites may drop hexagon shape frass.


I think termite chemicals are made so they don't degrade quickly. Last time I looked into it, they were supposed to be about 10 years. DIY, I would assume I have to be vigilant and apply at least every couple years to prevent reinfestation. I don't know if there are repellents. Find out if something like DEET works on termites. May want to treat the wall, where there are joints, yearly when they swarm. That is me assuming and starting to guess, so i'll stop.:smile:
 
#8 ·
Thank you carpdad very much for the comments.

I contacted Orkin and they are coming today to inspect. I will ask questions you mentioned. I contacted another local termite company for inspection and estimate. As you said, the termites here are dry wood termites. I will look at the frass with magnifying glass to see if they are hexagonal.

I think they know how to treat in this area, so they will just treat. I think I have to open some slot of drywall to inspect inside, and I am not good at that with no experience.

Last year, I looked up on DIY termite treatment, and I used Boracare myself in treating the exposed garage studs. They say it lasts at least 10 years to 30 years. But I am not sure if other termite killing chemicals would last that long time. It may be just killing termites on contact. I think the difficulty is that the wood and stud are behind the drywall and they are not easy to get at and treat.

Thank you very much.
 
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