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Old 01-05-2010, 08:22 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mradam View Post
I had thought perhaps condensation was the issue, but I am leary of insulating the walls only to find that the moisture is coming from elsewhere and I just hid the problem with insulation. Not sure what to do now...
You seal the exterior against air filtration and see if that does the trick.
How many times do I have to type this? You ask questions. You're given answers and you ignore them. If you'd followed elementry standard building practices, you wouldn't even have the issue. The implicit meaning of DIY is, do it yourself(correctly).
Ron
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Old 01-05-2010, 08:43 AM   #17
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geeze, you're as grouchy as me in the mornings Ron....
maybe we should BOTH switch to DeCaf?

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Old 01-05-2010, 08:56 AM   #18
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you have an existing concrete floor that was poured for exterior use obviously there is no vapor barrier under it... it will never stop wicking water...you must put a sill seal in there or you will be just asking for mold issues...wood should never touch concrete !!!
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Old 01-05-2010, 09:10 AM   #19
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you have an existing concrete floor that was poured for exterior use obviously there is no vapor barrier under it... it will never stop wicking water...you must put a sill seal in there or you will be just asking for mold issues...wood should never touch concrete !!!
what he said ^

.....UNLESS it's PT GROUND CONTACT lumber which is MADE for contacting concrete and/or dirt.

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Old 01-05-2010, 09:22 AM   #20
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Quote:
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what he said ^

.....UNLESS it's PT GROUND CONTACT lumber which is MADE for contacting concrete and/or dirt.

DM
pt ground contact has carcinogenic chemicals and should not be used for interior projects... cancer is worse then mold... sill gasket is $5 and to re frame a wall a couple hours
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Old 01-05-2010, 10:04 AM   #21
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geeze, you're as grouchy as me in the mornings Ron....
maybe we should BOTH switch to DeCaf?

DM
Maybe you're right, but why ask questions if you're not going to process the answers.
Decaf is for the delicate souls.
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Old 01-05-2010, 04:39 PM   #22
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I going to try your advice, Ron. Thanks for not being insulting about it, even though I was apparently "ignoring" your answers. Next time I'll be sure and do it myself correctly.

Brainberber, I will also go ahead and put that sill seal in. And this time with PT wood, just to be extra safe. Didn't know that about the non-PT wood touching concrete. Thank you for the advice.
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:11 PM   #23
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Treated wood is used inside all the time
Sill plates, basement bottom plates & any wood in contact with cement

Quote:

ACQ
ACQ is a mixture of copper and quat. Like CCA, the copper and quat act as biocides to prevent
insects and fungi from attacking the wood. Quat is used in many products that humans touch,
from swimming pool chemicals and shampoos to hospital mopping treatments. Wood treated with
ACQ has a light tan to olive color. ACQ treated wood can be used in above ground, ground
contact, and fresh water immersion applications but is not approved for saltwater applications.
http://www.treatedwood.com/main/faqs.php#7

Quote:
Can I use treated wood inside?
Pressure-treated wood may be used inside as long as all sawdust and construction debris are cleaned up and properly disposed of. Ecolife or Preserve pressure-treated wood does not emit vapors or fumes. You do not want to use treated wood for countertops or where it may become a component of food. In fact, the Food and Drug Administration does not recommend using any wood for kitchen countertops or food-cutting boards because knife cuts may allow food particles to become entrapped, creating an unsanitary environment.


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