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Old 01-09-2017, 10:21 AM   #1
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New Basement Window - Pumbing/Header


In hopes of installing basement wetbar/remodel, I would like to install 2-42" wide basement windows with wells into the 8" poured foundation. The Foundation Wall is load bearing given direction of floor joists. I would like to run the plumbing below the windows to the main drain stack.

I think the usual process would involve inserting headers above the windows within the interior (furring 2x4) walls above the windows. However with the complication of the plumbing below, I am looking for other options.

Is there such a thing as a steel header/beam that could be inserted within the concrete cutout to serve as load bearing requirement? Thinking of an 8" wide beam laying above the window trimmers that would transfer the above weight to the foundation below the window?


I attached a crude sketch, the purple line representing a steel "header"
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New Basement Window - Pumbing/Header-window-framing.jpg  

Last edited by theeld; 01-09-2017 at 10:26 AM.
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Old 01-09-2017, 10:24 AM   #2
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Re: New Basement Window - Pumbing/Header


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Is there such a thing as a steel header/beam that could be inserted within the concrete cutout to serve as load bearing requirement?
I think that would be the requirement. The new interior 2x4 could not be used as the support for the cutout windows.
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Old 01-09-2017, 02:06 PM   #3
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Re: New Basement Window - Pumbing/Header


--------Welcome to the forums!----------------

7' wide opening in a bearing wall requires a structural engineer to design, and a permit. You could also add a wood header in the floor cavity space (removing the rim joist from exterior) after shortening the joists to accept hangers and header thickness. I've done that a few times. OR a steel beam on the concrete wall, bearing on the notched concrete past the windows- the structural wall as the interior 2x wall is non-structural.

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Old 01-09-2017, 02:19 PM   #4
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Re: New Basement Window - Pumbing/Header


For reference, the 42" windows are spaced 10ft apart along a common wall, not next to one another.
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Old 01-09-2017, 04:27 PM   #5
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Re: New Basement Window - Pumbing/Header


Lol. I see that you said "wells"- plural, my fault- sorry. I would still not build some steel supports IN the window holes... rather, add some built-up header/joist height pieces to the rim, from the inside, fastening them together to make required thickness header for the load above. Strictly my opinion, not that the local Building Department wouldn't approve or not, ask them.

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Old 01-09-2017, 07:26 PM   #6
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Re: New Basement Window - Pumbing/Header


Well I have another Idea that was spurred when I realized that I have a triple plate basement. Can I insert a "header" at the top of the foundation wall. Maybe a Steel Beam could go here??? This is a cross section of wall in question... Looks like I have about 3.5" wide of exposed foundation wall and about 5" height from top of foundation wall to floor joist
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:42 PM   #7
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Re: New Basement Window - Pumbing/Header


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Originally Posted by theeld View Post
Well I have another Idea that was spurred when I realized that I have a triple plate basement. Can I insert a "header" at the top of the foundation wall. Maybe a Steel Beam could go here??? This is a cross section of wall in question... Looks like I have about 3.5" wide of exposed foundation wall and about 5" height from top of foundation wall to floor joist
Possibly, but it's still going to take some calculations to get 5" of steel to carry the load. The beam needs to be completely tight to ht efloor joists, so expect to need some steel shims to get it tight.
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Old 01-09-2017, 11:59 PM   #8
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Re: New Basement Window - Pumbing/Header


Or a built-up header let-in to the floor joists with hangers and legs (short jack studs) down to another PT plate toe-nailed to existing. 17" height should be enough to get required header for a 42" window; eg; http://learnframing.com/girders-head...s-span-tables/

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Old 01-10-2017, 08:20 AM   #9
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Re: New Basement Window - Pumbing/Header


I think up to 30" can be spanned with single 2x10 rim joist on double foundation plates. Why don't you buy lvl that will fit under the joists and see if the manufacturer's engineer will ok that for you? But you will have to produce exact drawing and dimensions. Don't let the lvl touch the concrete and use metal shims. Cut the foundation from the plates, not a square hole in the middle of the foundation. The brick wall is also supported by metal angle for that much span but don't know if you leave cut concrete piece as your drawing shows and can have an angle support that.
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