Method And Cost To Core A Dryer Vent In Concrete? - Building & Construction - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
Advertisement


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Display Modes
Old 08-30-2009, 07:37 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 7
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Method and cost to core a dryer vent in concrete?


Hi. I'm new to this forum, but am a seasoned DIY renovator. After 18 months of gutting and rebuilding our house, I'm stumped by one thing right now: Installing a dryer vent.

Are there tips on how to handle coring out the hole? I'm looking at needing to core through about 10 inches of concrete for this vent, and I'm not sure what to get to do it. I'm seriously lost on the proper tools for this one. I don't need a jack hammer...but some serious hammer drill I suppose? I've seen bits online that are 4" coring bits going for $150. Any chance those can be rented? This has to be a fairly standard need, my problem is that this isn't some wood sided house, we live in an old row house in Philadelphia and the front is poured concrete.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

- Bryan

Last edited by bgrimes; 08-30-2009 at 07:50 PM.
bgrimes is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-30-2009, 07:56 PM   #2
Household Handyman
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, Ga.
Posts: 2,480
Rewards Points: 1,412
Default


bgrimes- -Please read an understand this carefully, as I am trying to help you and to prevent you from getting hurt. Basically your are asking if a 4" core drill and drilling machine can be rented? YES, is the answer, in my area at least. Therein lies the problem, they will rent the equipment to anyone with now questions asked if the renter has any knowledge of how to use this equipment. I, Me, have used core drills in my years of Industrial Maintenance to drill holes in concrete floors up to 12" thick and walls up to 12" thick. Does that make me an expert- -NO. Just experienced. Using a core drill to drill a 4" hole through a 10" wall is NOT a job for a DIY or novice to say the least. This euipment is heavy and requires experience to drill vertically. I would suggest to you, that you find a good hammer drill, and a 3/8" x twelve inch (12") long masonry bit to rent for this. Mark the hole where you need it to be and start drilling holes around the perimeter of the hole you marked as close together as you can. It's going to be a long tedious job, invite some friends to help. Once you have all of these holes drilled it should be just a matter of hitting the plug of concrete with a good sized sledge hammer a few time to knock it out. BUT- then again, it would not surprise me if there were re-bar in the concrete wall to deal with. If you can bust out the concrete you can cut the re-bar with a hacksaw. Not a good solution, but a safer one. Good Luck, David
Thurman is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-30-2009, 08:07 PM   #3
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 7
Rewards Points: 10
Default


Thurman, thanks for the reply. I share your safety concerns, which is why this has been a project I've been trying to research for a month or so before doing anything. Obviously one would like to avoid having to drill 8+ holes and then chiseling/smashing out the middle, but I'm thinking that might be what does it. We've debated calling a couple of concrete contractors for estimates, but I was curious about the possibility of just coring out the hole and being done with it.

Thanks again. I just might have to call up some buddies and supply the beer...

- Bryan
bgrimes is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 08-30-2009, 08:31 PM   #4
Licensed P.E./Home Insp
 
Aggie67's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 757
Rewards Points: 844
Default


If we're in a chemical plant with 12" of brick, we use one of our Hilti TE-56's with a cupped core bit. When you bottom out, we whack the plug out with a small sledge, then keep going. But it tends to be a sloppy hole (chips around the edge).

If we're coring through concrete walls for piping and what not and we want a quick clean hole, there really is no other choice. We have a wet coring rig that we anchor to the wall. Do a Google image search for that term, and you'll see what you need. I don't like freehanding it because a lot of times the hole doesn't get cored straight when you do that. Most rigs have outriggers that you anchor to the wall when doing horizontal holes.

Someone may tell you that a hammer drill core bit will get you through rebar with a rebar cutting bit, but you'll destroy the bit. A new bit should last for 30 holes or so.

In this case you may want to hire a coring guy. I have a guy we go to that all he does is coring and cutting. Pretty reasonable. The last job he did for us was 82 holes, and it worked out to be about $28 a hole. I'm sure for just one hole you'll probably get banged for a few hours, but no one is going to travel for just one hole for $28. But it might be cheaper than buying a bit and renting a coring rig. You'd have to check and compare. Also, most places in NJ rent rigs with bits, but they measure the teeth before and after and charge you for what you take off the teeth.
Aggie67 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2009, 09:03 PM   #5
Tool Geek
 
PaliBob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Pacific Palisades CA
Posts: 2,590
Rewards Points: 2,160
Default


Bryan, I'm with Thurman on not going the rental route. I always called our local Concrete Coring outfit here on the LA West side. I have found very few concrete contractors here that core their own jobs at those large sizes

How about calling Americore, they are over in Lansdown, only 10 miles from you. They could zip over and finish the job in an hour, at least the way that I see it.

http://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&rl...image&resnum=1

my wife grew up in Olney and we still have family in the NE
__________________
Disclaimer
& Stay Safe
.....Bob Lavery

Last edited by PaliBob; 08-30-2009 at 09:04 PM. Reason: sp
PaliBob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2009, 09:16 PM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: leesburg, fl
Posts: 6,669
Rewards Points: 3,622
Default


kind of difficult to dri-core thru 12" especially if you hit steel,,, wet coring's ok BUT you need to anchor the base to the wall,,, if brick, its best to ' thru-bolt ' altho attaching a surface plate w/anchors then using a vac base works ok.

ag, we did some coring yrs ago in ny-nj-ct-pa - holes, inc, of paterson - might've even done some work for you.

don't bother w/carbide bits on steel,,, had 10K+ 1 1/8" holes to drill down at colts neck,,, they ruined many MANY bits before we set up a 3drill-3 speed rig,,, segment useage charge's normal - if none, they've built it into the rental $
stadry is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2009, 10:22 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: South of Boston, MA
Posts: 17,248
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default


I had to cut thru a cement wall for a drainage pipe for my sump when the addition went in
There was dirt on both sides, & once completed the pipe would be covered with dirt
So I wasn't concerned with looks
I used a pick, hammer drill, sledge hammer & a chisel "gun" (?) powered by air compressor
It wasn't as bad as I thought, But still a royal PIA



Scuba_Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-30-2009, 10:55 PM   #8
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 263
Rewards Points: 6
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by bgrimes View Post
Hi. I'm new to this forum, but am a seasoned DIY renovator. After 18 months of gutting and rebuilding our house, I'm stumped by one thing right now: Installing a dryer vent.

Are there tips on how to handle coring out the hole? I'm looking at needing to core through about 10 inches of concrete for this vent, and I'm not sure what to get to do it. I'm seriously lost on the proper tools for this one. I don't need a jack hammer...but some serious hammer drill I suppose? I've seen bits online that are 4" coring bits going for $150. Any chance those can be rented? This has to be a fairly standard need, my problem is that this isn't some wood sided house, we live in an old row house in Philadelphia and the front is poured concrete.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

- Bryan

I live in Philly and i know the type of house. It should be brink on top of the concrete. Is there no way to get the vent to the brick portion. Its a lot easier to work with brick then concrete.. Is there no way to get the vent to a window?
paul100 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2009, 07:59 AM   #9
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 7
Rewards Points: 10
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by paul100 View Post
I live in Philly and i know the type of house. It should be brink on top of the concrete. Is there no way to get the vent to the brick portion. Its a lot easier to work with brick then concrete.. Is there no way to get the vent to a window?
So what we have is a two story bay on the front of our house..and I'm looking to go to the side of it. From basement side it's parged concrete, and from the outside it looks like concrete...but it may well be a couple layers of stucco over brick which would make sense actually. I know when Comcast was out a couple years ago for cable, the guy had no problem drilling the hole he needed, but this is a different story.

I've added a picture of the front for you to get an idea. I'm looking to do this on the other side of the bay, but that's not here nor there.


if the pic doesn't show: http://bp2.blogger.com/_SuxBapT3pv8/...00-h/Door2.jpg

It may be that the entire bay is brick throughout (which I can't believe I haven't looked into yet...doh!), but I'm pretty sure they reinforced the inside with concrete about 40 years ago.

If it is all brick, does this make the task easier? I've drilled into brick many times, but nothing this big.

Thanks for all of the replies.
- Bryan
bgrimes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2009, 11:27 AM   #10
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 2,045
Rewards Points: 1,910
Default


Is there a wood rim joist supporting that bay? Rim joists are great locations to put dryer ducts.
jogr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2009, 04:41 PM   #11
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 226
Rewards Points: 150
Default


Method and cost to core a dryer vent in concrete?-dryer-vent.jpg

Yeah I too am wondering if the dryer vent will go through a rim joist right about there but on the other side lol

Good luck let us know how it goes!

Be safe!
Paragon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2009, 08:22 PM   #12
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,730
Rewards Points: 526
Default


Before you cut your hole, you may want to check your local Building Department. If under the IRC, it's no problem. Any other code may not work. Duct termination: Minimum 3' from other building openings....{504.5}

You probably know to support it every 10', needs to be smooth metal inside, no screws, foil tape works fine (on each segment of elbow too), 25' max. - 2' per 45*, 5' per 90*, back-draft damper, no screens.

Be safe, G
Gary in WA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-31-2009, 08:28 PM   #13
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: South of Boston, MA
Posts: 17,248
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default


My vent goes OUT an existing window



Scuba_Dave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-01-2009, 07:54 AM   #14
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Philadelphia, PA
Posts: 7
Rewards Points: 10
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by Paragon View Post
Attachment 13170

Yeah I too am wondering if the dryer vent will go through a rim joist right about there but on the other side lol

Good luck let us know how it goes!

Be safe!
Interesting idea on the rim joist, hadn't thought of it. Tonight I'll look closer in the basement and take a couple of pictures. I'm not sure that the framing in that bay is quite like that, but hey, who knows.

Cheers!
Bryan
bgrimes is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off





Top of Page | View New Posts