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Old 08-10-2009, 02:44 PM   #1
 
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MASONRY- overgrout on natural stone


i doing a natural stone around my fireplace and want to achieve an old world look with an overgrout technique. problem is i can't find any how to's anywhere on how to do it. i'm thinking i just need to fill the joints with extra grout and then spread it over the edges of the stones. does that sound right? any advice is appreciated. below is a picture of the look i want. thanks
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MASONRY- overgrout on natural stone-tuscany-italian-rest.-inside-1.jpg  
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Old 08-10-2009, 03:10 PM   #2
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Westcoaster, this is a fairly simple process to "flush" joints to give them a rustic look. First, though, the picture you have looks like a natural thin veneer (1"thick). Is this the same kind of material your thinking of using, or are you refering to a full depth veneer, 4-6" deep?
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Old 08-10-2009, 04:21 PM   #3
 
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Jomama, i am using a natural thin veneer. its on the wall now and ranges about 1-2 inches thick. i spaced them about 1/2 apart per company's installation procedures.
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Old 08-10-2009, 04:23 PM   #4
 
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that is actually a product picture from their website of the exact stone that i bought. Robinson Rock
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:06 PM   #5
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Every natural thin veneer I've layed has needed the joints filled as you stick them to the wall, otherwise they will slide down. So, I'm assuming you already have the joints partilly full, maybe just below the surface. If that's the case, you could try to overfill the joints with a groutbag. This may not work real well if the joints are hard already, as getting the new mortar to stick may not be very easy. If the joints are scraped back from the face of the stone, say 1/2", it will work much better & be much stronger.

As for tooling the joint, I simply use the backside of a margin trowel (like a normal mason trowel, but miniature), pull/depress joint at about 15 degree angle to stone, brush when the mortar will no longer smear the stone face. You can brush more agressively as the mortar get harder.

Note that the joints will set up really fast if the existing joints are already dry & your only ptting a thin layer over them.
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:15 PM   #6
 
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thanks for the info. i haven't jointed anything yet. i did a scratch coat, buttered the the backs of the stone and pressed them on the wall for about a minute each. they stuck.
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:29 PM   #7
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Then it should be fairly easy. Find yourself a grout bag (the disposable are the best IMO), cut the tip about the size of the joint, & get filling!

You can use the same mortar/sand mix you used for sticking the stone, or even use a colored mortar. Generally, I'll fill for about 10-15 minutes & check on the first joints I filled to make sure thsy don't get to hard.

Good Luck.
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:37 PM   #8
 
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ok, any tips on mixing in color. i want a light sand color. will the morter get lighter in color as it dries?
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by westcoaster View Post
ok, any tips on mixing in color. i want a light sand color. will the morter get lighter in color as it dries?
I never mess around with any kind of liquid or color powder additives. I will only use a colored mortar directly from a supplier. If you go to a masonry supplier, you can pick-up 1- 70 or 80 bag to do the entire grout job. They should have mortar samples to show the finished product. This route may cost a few more dollars, but is far more reliable IMO. I've tried the other ways before, & it cost me dearly on a few jobs.

And yes, the mortar will always get lighter as it dries. If you like the wet look though, you can apply a stone/paver enhancer over everything.
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