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Old 04-20-2015, 08:31 PM   #1
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Looking for input on my shed plans...


Hi,

I designed this 12x16 shed and I'm looking for input on the design from the experts. I'm particularly concerned about the roof section. The book I bought was pretty light on the roof aspect, so I'm not sure what I have is sufficient. I plan to use the top loft area for light storage. I need to design some sort of access, but I may just build it as-is, and then remove whatever joists I need to to make the access. I may go with a full set of stairs, a ladder or just some pull down attic stairs... not sure yet.

Anyway, if you see any obvious deficiencies, please let me know. Thanks,

Kevin

Edit: I put higher resolution attachments in the first reply.
Attached Thumbnails
Looking for input on my shed plans...-shed-plans-2015-front.jpg   Looking for input on my shed plans...-shed-plans-2015-side.jpg   Looking for input on my shed plans...-shed-plans-2015-top.jpg   Looking for input on my shed plans...-shed-plans-2015-detail.jpg   Looking for input on my shed plans...-shed-plans-2015-roof-detail.jpg  


Last edited by Ler0y Jenkins; 04-20-2015 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 04-20-2015, 08:34 PM   #2
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Here's some higher-res versions:










Last edited by Ler0y Jenkins; 04-20-2015 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 04-20-2015, 10:35 PM   #3
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Not a fan of that roof framing or the way there showing the ceiling joist.
https://www.google.com/search?q=gabl...ml%3B525%3B475
Ceiling joist should be sitting on top of the top plates with angle cuts on the ends to match the roof pitch.
The way there showing it done is the way homes where built 75 or more years ago.
Your losing head room, would be a nightmare if you ever wanted to finish out the inside.
In those pictures there's no birds mouth's cut into the rafters, what's to stop the roof from sliding down?
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Old 04-20-2015, 11:34 PM   #4
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Consider a gable end door so you can get long items up easily for storage.
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:17 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joecaption View Post
Not a fan of that roof framing or the way there showing the ceiling joist.
https://www.google.com/search?q=gabl...ml%3B525%3B475
Ceiling joist should be sitting on top of the top plates with angle cuts on the ends to match the roof pitch.
The way there showing it done is the way homes where built 75 or more years ago.
Your losing head room, would be a nightmare if you ever wanted to finish out the inside.
In those pictures there's no birds mouth's cut into the rafters, what's to stop the roof from sliding down?
The shed is designed with 9' walls, but an 8' ceiling, which adds space to the storage loft above. The ceiling joists are sitting on top of a ribbon board, which is notched into each of the wall studs... it's kind of hard to see in the picture, but that's the design.

Regarding finishing the inside, I designed it so the distance from the floor to the bottom of the ceiling joists is sufficient to accommodate 8' drywall.
There are birds mouths' cut into the roof rafters, but they are hard to see. Is there any rule about how big the birds mouth should be? These are rather small.... maybe I should make them bigger.

Kevin

Last edited by Ler0y Jenkins; 04-21-2015 at 08:21 AM.
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:21 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joed View Post
Consider a gable end door so you can get long items up easily for storage.
Good idea... thanks.
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Old 04-21-2015, 11:55 AM   #7
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I see a lot of people posting about the roof but to me the most important and often over looked part of a shed is the floor. At least sheds built on wood not slab. I would consider adding some more joists to beef it up. The first thing to go on a shed is the floor.


This is my shed



Just a thought.
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Old 04-21-2015, 11:03 PM   #8
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Floor at 2x6 x 16"oc are even overkill, unless you are storing a riding mower, etc. in there. The 4x4 skids are shortening the joists to 4' span, could use 2x4 if loading permits- 40# eg. Southern Pine PT= good to 6' span:http://www.awc.org/calculators/span/...orizontal+Span.

The seat cuts in rafter require 1-1/2" as you appear to have- rafters could use 2x4 to 6'11" span with #2 Doug Fir at 24" on center; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...?bu2=undefined

Solid header in gable end (over double door) not required (up to 8' span) as rafter is carrying the load, unless you use pieces for the rafter requiring solid bearing, or support part of the loft there; http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...9_6_par024.htm

Excavate the dirt below so moisture will run to perimeter that may collect on the plastic vapor barrier plastic, waterproof the floor joists, skids, bottom side of sheathing even when using pressure treated (against insects and fungi). Leave the full 4" of ground clearance under the joists from the skids to prevent rot, remove all sod, add gravel under the concrete pier blocks, use plastic wood for trim at deck sides to keep the real wood 6" min. or 2" from walkway per code for houses to prevent rot due to splash-back; #5- http://publicecodes.cyberregs.com/ic...?bu2=undefined

Gary
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:53 AM   #9
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great work.
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Old 04-24-2015, 02:58 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ler0y Jenkins View Post
There are birds mouths' cut into the roof rafters, but they are hard to see. Is there any rule about how big the birds mouth should be? These are rather small.... maybe I should make them bigger.
From a lot of research on how to size birds mouth for building my son's shed a few years ago, I've come to the following conclusion:

Ideally, the horizontal cut of the birds mouth should be wide enough to fully sit on the top plate. Since top plates are usually 2x4, that means a horizontal width of 3-1/2". BUT, that is dependent on:
  1. the size of the rafters (2x4, 2x6, 3x6, etc.)
  2. how long the rafter tails are.
  3. the spacing of the rafters.
  4. what the dead load will be (rafter tails, sheathing, felt, shingles)
  5. what the snow load will be.
  6. what the live load (people) will be.
The remaining rafter above the horizontal cut must be strong enough to support loads 4-6, depending on items 1-3.

For instance, assume a rafter tail of only about 5-1/2" to accommodate a 1x6 used to cover the bottom of the rafters as a soffit. The amount of wood above the bird mouth cut would need to be a lot less than if the rafter tail was 2 feet long.

HRG

Last edited by Homerepairguy; 04-24-2015 at 03:07 AM.
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