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Old 11-17-2009, 10:37 PM   #1
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Laminating A Beam

I'm remodeling my kitchen. There is a small addition where the room was extended beyond the load bearing outer wall. They used a solid 4 x 10" 10ft beam. There was water damage to the beam and framing from a neglected roof leak.

I have rebuilt most of the framing and now have to work on the beam.

I would like to replace the beam with 3 2x10's laminated together.
How would I properly build the beam. Do I use DAP woodweld, or just stick with PL construction adhesive?

When I glue and clamp, what type of fasteners should I use?
Bolt them, screws, lag screws? Also what type of nailing pattern?

I have 1/4" 4" lag screws. Can I use these?

Much Appreciated
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:44 PM   #2
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this is the kind of question that many pro's on here would probably choose not to answer
with out seeing the job and actual conditions its really not possible imo
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:45 PM   #3
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Normally all you need for a built up beam is two 12d nails every six inches, no glue.

But I don't know how you're going to accommodate for the size difference, 3 2x10's are 4 1/2 inches, a 4x10 is 3 1/2.
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:46 PM   #4
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You could save yourself some trouble by purchasing a laminated beam (LVL or glulam) already built. The supplier of the LVL or glulam will likely be happy to size the beam for you based on the geometry of the house. You can certainly build up the beam from 2x10's using a combination of construction adhesive and either nails or structurally rated screws, or structural bolts for that matter, however the exact fastener pattern is driven by the loads on the structure and the specific fastener you use, I am not sure there are standard tables that will supply the required data.
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:50 PM   #5
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10' isn't that great of a span, might have (2) roof loads on it
For a 13' section I took out they sized them as (3) 12" LVL's or (2) 14"
I like the trusslok's that you use to screw these tother
--like a slimmer better lag bolt
A solid beam will usually be stronger then a made up beam
If a lumber company is near you they could size LVL's
For piece of mind I'd have them size it then decide
But I'd think (3) 2x10's would work
The connection method/nailing pattern is usually dictated by the designer based on the load

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Old 11-18-2009, 12:43 PM   #6
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Thanks for the replies.

A local yard had a client that ordered a pallet of solid 2x12"s and had a few extra. I waited until that shipment arrived, and every beam had splits in them. There client refused to take the bunch and I didn't bother.

I just chose to build a beam because of of time. I can pick up the 2x10's at any home depot. I start working on the beam this weekend. I will double check another yard, if they have on hand stock for a laminated or solid beam. If not, I will just continue using the 2x10's.

As far as the three 2x10's being 4 1/2". I have to rebuild that section of wall and was going to use a 4x6 post down to the foundation. Set the beam on the 4x6 and fill the gap on both sides of the beam with 1/2" plywood. Use metal Thompson plates to tie the beam to the post.

If anyone see's an issue of going about it that way, please let me know.

Thanks again
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Old 11-19-2009, 12:10 AM   #7
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We replace a load wall that supports the second floor joists to open up the kitchen.This is a 3 2x12 beam we build and install it runs about 14' 4" long and we use the nailing pattern of 3 nails every 4 inchs . For posts you up your beam size by 1 so we use 4 2x4s on each end to support the beam..
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Old 11-19-2009, 09:49 AM   #8
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If you are going to scab the outside of the constructed beam with 1/2" on both sides, place the 1/2" between each 2x10 instead. 2x10, 1/2", 2x10, 1/2", 2x10. That will give you your 5.5" and will increase the strength of the beam. Putting the 1/2 on the outside doesn't really add anything to the integrity of the beam.
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