Joist Notched Out... What To Do? - Building & Construction - Page 2 - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
Advertisement


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Display Modes
Old 01-05-2010, 07:25 PM   #16
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: central virginia mountains
Posts: 1,857
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default


if you are going to head off the joist as suggested make sure the two joists running parralel wil carry the load of the joists you are tying in. Normally those joists would be doubled also. If the cut is midspan you may want to take a good look at weight transfer since there is a bath above. If you go that rout you will need to cut the waste line and then drill new holes in the header for the waste line to pass thru. Personally the bolted steel is an easier fix and should be strong enough especially if the two plates are long enough and thru bolted to each other
tpolk is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-05-2010, 08:13 PM   #17
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 951
Rewards Points: 500
Default


Then again, if you don't need the headroom below the joist, you could tie the three together with a 2x6 on either side of the cut -- parallel strongbacks.
pyper is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-05-2010, 10:01 PM   #18
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2
Rewards Points: 10
Default

tpolk is correct


Quote:
Originally Posted by tpolk View Post
if you are going to head off the joist as suggested make sure the two joists running parralel wil carry the load of the joists you are tying in. Normally those joists would be doubled also. If the cut is midspan you may want to take a good look at weight transfer since there is a bath above. If you go that rout you will need to cut the waste line and then drill new holes in the header for the waste line to pass thru. Personally the bolted steel is an easier fix and should be strong enough especially if the two plates are long enough and thru bolted to each other
hi all, been a lurker for a while now, can't stop myself from chiming in on this one. tpolk is correct in saying that you need to double up the joists on either side so you can header off (box around), but be aware that you should have the doubled-joist checked just to be sure. typically you can go to a truss plant and ask one of the designer to do it, it may cost you a case of beers. OR
the other thing that I may suggest is to add joists to both side of this Damaged joist and make sure the spacing is less than or equal to the rest of the joist. this way you can take out the damaged joist completely so when you decide to sell the house, no one is to question. again if you floor joists are 16" o/c, after you added these new joists and take out the damaged one, make sure the spacing of these new joists are less than or equal to 16" o/c. good luck.
simonw88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-05-2010, 10:51 PM   #19
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 951
Rewards Points: 500
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by simonw88 View Post
hi all, been a lurker for a while now, can't stop myself from chiming in on this one. tpolk is correct in saying that you need to double up the joists on either side so you can header off (box around), but be aware that you should have the doubled-joist checked just to be sure. typically you can go to a truss plant and ask one of the designer to do it, it may cost you a case of beers. OR
the other thing that I may suggest is to add joists to both side of this Damaged joist and make sure the spacing is less than or equal to the rest of the joist. this way you can take out the damaged joist completely so when you decide to sell the house, no one is to question. again if you floor joists are 16" o/c, after you added these new joists and take out the damaged one, make sure the spacing of these new joists are less than or equal to 16" o/c. good luck.
Did you notice the part about how it's been this way for a decade?

I'd say that so far, all the evidence point to "no harm, no foul."
pyper is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2010, 09:30 AM   #20
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Posts: 2
Rewards Points: 10
Default


Quote:
Originally Posted by pyper View Post
Did you notice the part about how it's been this way for a decade?

I'd say that so far, all the evidence point to "no harm, no foul."
I sure did notice the house's been this way for a decade.
I am simply suggesting what I would consider if it was my house. Post 15 suggested that he/she is noticing problem. out.
simonw88 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2010, 04:12 PM   #21
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Alabama
Posts: 608
Rewards Points: 500
Default


In regards to fire stop, I assume that the bathtub is effectively being the fire stop. My home has these exact type openings at the tubs and showers. I assume fire stop isn't needed because these spaces are not directly open to the upstairs. The tub/shower blocks this air pocket with the rest of the upstairs.

As for the joists, just a couple of ideas:

First of all, reinforce the joist above the pipe by bridging the gap with a 2x4 (if a 2x4 won't fit, it looks like a 1x6 will).
Then reinforce the bottom of the joist with a 2x4 extending at least 1 foot on either side of the gap below the pipe.

The other thing you can do (or do in addition) is to sister the joists on either side of this one, then use blocking to effectively connect this weak joist to the two strong joists.

Another thing you can do is attatch this strapping on the bottom of the joist for the whole length or attach diagonally from one corner of the joist, under the center, and back up to the opposite corner (http://www.finehomebuilding.com/PDF/Free/021184090.pdf option #5).
HooKooDooKu is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Notched joist prghome Carpentry 11 11-14-2009 10:13 PM
Space between joist and beam on deck schveiguy Building & Construction 11 09-08-2009 09:15 AM
one rotted deck joist to replace, need advice dougq Building & Construction 10 07-07-2009 02:18 PM
replacing rotted sill plate and rim joist behind a deck ledger board tommyt Building & Construction 2 08-11-2008 07:38 PM
i beam in basement, notched joist component Building & Construction 1 03-18-2008 01:47 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts