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Old 01-10-2010, 08:38 AM   #16
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For solid brick walls we now use insulated plasterboard on adhesive.
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:24 PM   #17
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If I were you, I'd get that old drywall out - it's original? Could have mold behind there if you don't have a true vapor barrier - then put up a real frame - insulation, vapor barrier - and new drywall

Do it right the first time and you won't be unhappy - plus if you have furring strips behind the drywall - how would you actually attach your new frame? it wouldn't be very structurally sound - do the whole thing or none at all if you want a positive end to this one
good luck
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Old 01-10-2010, 07:30 PM   #18
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may be better if his new framing wasn't attached to the brick really doesn't have to be
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Old 01-11-2010, 08:25 PM   #19
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I would build a stud wall against the furring strips if it works for drywall layout. This will act as a good fire-stop for the wall if fill-in p.t. wood, or draft-stopping material is used at the top and bottom plates against the brick. Brick is porous like a sponge. You want to decouple the water reservoir cladding from the wall with rigid foam board as ccarlisle said. Use some sticky window tape on the furring strips, and fillers before adding the wall for a thermal/capillary break. BSC uses no interior vapor barrier and recommends tape sealing the seams on the foam board as mentioned. This is your water membrane substituting for the builder's paper left off. Go here, click on Denver:

You might ask the builder as to if the air space is required or what means for water weeping out from the wall originally. This may not apply if two rows of brick with air space were used, rather than a veneer:

It appears you may not require an inside v.b. in your area, check with your local B.D.:

Your walls require R-15 if your zip starts- 110:

Be safe, Gary
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17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
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