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Old 12-25-2009, 05:49 PM   #1
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I dont know...


what Im doing half the time and the other half Im lost, dazed and confused. We have a concrete block house with concrete block walls. There is a PT board running the perimeter of the house on top of the blocks and the roof trusses are on top of that. The PT sill board is not real level because (this is my fault) when the angle iron lintels was filled with blocks then those blocks was around 1/4" to 1/2" higher than the rest of the blocks. When the roofers went to set the trusses they did try and even the sill board the best they could with cedar shingles using them as shims/wedge. But I think some of the trusses are still higher/lower than the others but not by too much from looking with the naked eye. My question is this something that can be corrected at a later time when they go to do the drywall or compensated for when they frame up the wall that will be on the inside of the blocks ?
We just dont want a wave in the ceiling line

Last edited by Mudball; 12-25-2009 at 05:55 PM.
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Old 12-25-2009, 06:50 PM   #2
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The fix would have been as easy as routing the trusses into the top plate. Kind of late now.

I assume the roof sheeting is already on (and the roofing).

Stretch a string to see how bad the rafters as out of line. You may need to sister up some 2x4s to the trusses to get the ceiling flat.

Someone else may have an idea. You need to get the problem fixed before insulation and drywall.

--MIKE--
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Old 12-25-2009, 08:34 PM   #3
 
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What I do is like oh'mike said is I use a string line then set my saw and kerf at the layout. If your trusses are already installed and the next thing I would do is just use 2x4's nailed on the trusses using a stringline and the lowest point. Does that make any since.
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Old 12-25-2009, 10:26 PM   #4
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Mudball,
Stretch a string across the ceiling but mount a couple of short pieces of 2 x 4, one at each end of the room. This will space the string down 1 1/2" from the bottom of the trusses. Now take another short 2 x 4 block and go along and use it as a gauge to see where each truss is at in relation to the string. If you find some that are off and it is only 1/2" or less, I would just rip some 2 x 4's on a table saw to make some shims and tack them to the bottom of the affected trusses.
Mike Hawkins
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Old 12-26-2009, 05:42 AM   #5
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Thanks for the great responses and ideas. I will be sure to loosen the sill anchor bolts before I hammer wedge and I will use these cedar shingles as they will make a really great wedge. I know the blocks were off as I mentioned in my post and that they (roofers) did try and compensate for it but I also wanted to mention that they may not be off no more than a 1/4" or less between each truss but Im not sure and should have time to find out today. I will try and correct those that need correcting. I just didnt know if it would show a bad dip/swag/sway in the ceiling trim line.
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Old 12-26-2009, 01:03 PM   #6
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"I will be sure to loosen the sill anchor bolts before I hammer wedge and I will use these cedar shingles as they will make a really great wedge." ------------- If you shim the sill, you need to grout with cement mix, the gap you create to maintain positive support. At the very least, foam for an air seal there after wards. The sill should have been leveled in the block-filling grout when installed. Later, before the fascia was installed (even after--- possibly), the trusses could be shimmed, but not with 1-1/2 wide cedar shims which would not take the load over time. Rather with material that gives full bearing for the trusses, as per warranty requirements for the roof system. Minor discrepancies before drywalling are shimmed with cardboard strips or solid material to the wood bottoms if thicker is needed. Be sure to securely fasten shims or use a longer fastener in drywall to compensate.http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...0652-157-00100

Be safe, Gary
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17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
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Old 12-26-2009, 05:46 PM   #7
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Thanks GBR in WA. I pulled a string today and they look to be very close and less than 1/4" in most all cases. I will let the professionals look at it before the drywall goes up and thanks for the link because its nice to know that it can be fixed if need be.
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Old 12-26-2009, 06:28 PM   #8
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You are welcome from all of us! Let's see some progress pictures when you find the time, we usually only see the before and after.....

Be safe, Gary
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Old 12-26-2009, 06:39 PM   #9
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Yes sir I just might get time tomorrow to take some pictures. Its just such a slow pain as we have dial up
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