I've never done this before, but I have all the tools and a brain like a sponge. So tell me everything. Thanks :biggrin:
No I'm kidding. But I'm serious though. But not really.
No seriously, I am a newbie at this and my goal is to be like Yummy Mummy and finish my basement on my own. Hopefully in less than 3 years though. 3 months maybe?
Actually I do, I get the general principle for framing with the 16 on center. How do I do the corners where the studs meet up? and where do I measure from for the first 16?
You might want to check into some books on residential construction and framing as well as about basement remodelling.These should answer most of your questions as well as raise some more. They will also help you plan your project including how to allow for plumbing, heating and electrical. Don't forget to get permits before you start!:thumbsup:
I guess I will keep all my questions in this thread to keep the boards from being cluttered. Unless the admins rather have different questions have their own threads.
Another question: Why should I pull a permit to finish my basement? What will happen if I don't? The reason I can see is the city wants to know when my house is improved upon so that they may jack my property taxes up.
For a major project like this you need to get permits so that :
a) You know that the work was done properly.
b) Work without a permit MIGHT compromise your home owner insurance.(or at least cause problems even if unrelated issues arise).
c) How do you justify an increase in property (insurance) value if the work never happened?
d) If you need to call a trade in they could refuse to work on your project.(or if they need a permit they'll be held up while you get yours).
e) When you re-sell, non-permitted work MIGHT need to be inspected and/or removed.
I'm sure others will come up with more reasons for permits on the big jobs.
I realized after re-reading you are doing a basement
So you want the studs to line up on the inside - since there isn't an outside
Either layout will work
The one on the right allows for insulation to go behind the stud
Basements have special considerations, you need to consider water vapor & water intrusion
Most go with rigid foam against the cement
The one on the left you may not need the 3rd stud in the far corner
This thread has a ton of framing pictures you might be able to use for some reference and some information you really need to consider when framing for a finished basement....Fire blocking! http://www.diychatroom.com/f98/how-fireblock-framing-37190/
I wonder why some bright spark out there didn't suggest 2x6 wall studs, spray-foam insulation, 6 mil vapour barrier, all sealed and taped, and 3/8" drywall covered by two coats of paint...?
For insulation I'm planning on Rigid foam against the concrete, probably 1/2 to 1"
Then build a stud wall againts that & use R13 insulation in the wall
Below grade your area looks like R10 Min insulation
So you could put in 2" rigid against the wall & the not use any fiberglass
The fiberglass & studs can't be up against the concrete
Concrete allows water vapor to pass thru which can cause mold
So a stud wall with fiberglass needs to have an air gap between the wall & the concrete 1-2"
And mold could still grow in this area if a damp basement
Most people recommend the rigid to prvent the water vapor from passing thru
As far as I know it still needs either the rigid or the gap between the fiberglass & concrete
However I have not seen that product
It would need to be a complete (outside) seal...walls & floor
The other issue is that heat will radiate thru the wall & any water vapor from inside will condense against the cold concrete wall
So its not just vapor from outside that needs to be considered
With recent rain the humidity in my basement has jumped from 50 up to 70%
In addition only pressure treated studs (PT) can be installed against concrete
Noob question about having the Rigid foam against the walls. I understand about the water vapour coming through the concrete and condensing.
However, wouldn't the vapour now condense on the Rigid Foam since the foam acts like a vapour barrier?
I know the theory is to prevent the water vapour from the inside condensing on the cold wall, but with traditional construction (in my area) a vapour barrier is in place between the insulation and the living space so in theory, there shouldn't be any water vapour reaching the cold wall?
Wood is the food for the mold. The foam would hold that vapor out side of the wood and not allow it to mold. Also that would force the moisture through the concrete to the ground.......I think LOL
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