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I am brand new here and I am about to finish my basement.

3K views 27 replies 10 participants last post by  Big N8 
#1 ·
I've never done this before, but I have all the tools and a brain like a sponge. So tell me everything. Thanks :biggrin:


No I'm kidding. But I'm serious though. But not really.


No seriously, I am a newbie at this and my goal is to be like Yummy Mummy and finish my basement on my own. Hopefully in less than 3 years though. 3 months maybe?
 
#5 ·
You might want to check into some books on residential construction and framing as well as about basement remodelling.These should answer most of your questions as well as raise some more. They will also help you plan your project including how to allow for plumbing, heating and electrical. Don't forget to get permits before you start!:thumbsup:
 
#6 ·
It's always wise to check your local codes for any odd little things that the local jurisdiction may have made to the national building code.

If you always conform to code nobody later on will have a complaint.--Mike--
 
#7 ·
^ok thanks fellas. Definitely good advice.

I guess I will keep all my questions in this thread to keep the boards from being cluttered. Unless the admins rather have different questions have their own threads.


Another question: Why should I pull a permit to finish my basement? What will happen if I don't? The reason I can see is the city wants to know when my house is improved upon so that they may jack my property taxes up.
 
#8 ·
For a major project like this you need to get permits so that :
a) You know that the work was done properly.
b) Work without a permit MIGHT compromise your home owner insurance.(or at least cause problems even if unrelated issues arise).
c) How do you justify an increase in property (insurance) value if the work never happened?
d) If you need to call a trade in they could refuse to work on your project.(or if they need a permit they'll be held up while you get yours).
e) When you re-sell, non-permitted work MIGHT need to be inspected and/or removed.
I'm sure others will come up with more reasons for permits on the big jobs.
 
#16 ·
I realized after re-reading you are doing a basement
So you want the studs to line up on the inside - since there isn't an outside
Either layout will work
The one on the right allows for insulation to go behind the stud
Basements have special considerations, you need to consider water vapor & water intrusion
Most go with rigid foam against the cement

The one on the left you may not need the 3rd stud in the far corner
 
#18 ·
I wonder why some bright spark out there didn't suggest 2x6 wall studs, spray-foam insulation, 6 mil vapour barrier, all sealed and taped, and 3/8" drywall covered by two coats of paint...?

Guesses anyone?
 
#22 ·
For insulation I'm planning on Rigid foam against the concrete, probably 1/2 to 1"
Then build a stud wall againts that & use R13 insulation in the wall

Below grade your area looks like R10 Min insulation
So you could put in 2" rigid against the wall & the not use any fiberglass
 
#24 ·
The fiberglass & studs can't be up against the concrete
Concrete allows water vapor to pass thru which can cause mold
So a stud wall with fiberglass needs to have an air gap between the wall & the concrete 1-2"
And mold could still grow in this area if a damp basement

Most people recommend the rigid to prvent the water vapor from passing thru
 
#26 ·
As far as I know it still needs either the rigid or the gap between the fiberglass & concrete
However I have not seen that product
It would need to be a complete (outside) seal...walls & floor

The other issue is that heat will radiate thru the wall & any water vapor from inside will condense against the cold concrete wall
So its not just vapor from outside that needs to be considered
With recent rain the humidity in my basement has jumped from 50 up to 70%

In addition only pressure treated studs (PT) can be installed against concrete
 
#27 · (Edited)
Noob question about having the Rigid foam against the walls. I understand about the water vapour coming through the concrete and condensing.

However, wouldn't the vapour now condense on the Rigid Foam since the foam acts like a vapour barrier?

I know the theory is to prevent the water vapour from the inside condensing on the cold wall, but with traditional construction (in my area) a vapour barrier is in place between the insulation and the living space so in theory, there shouldn't be any water vapour reaching the cold wall?
 
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