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Old 12-19-2010, 08:31 PM   #1
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How to install blocking/backing with limited access


I'm getting ready to frame a basement wall that runs parallel to the joists. The space between the rim joist and the next joist is only about 6 inches, leaving almost no room to place blocking or a backing for the top plate of the new wall that will need to be attached there. I could fit the blocking in, but could only attach it by end-nailing it through the closest joist, and letting the free end sit on the mud sill of the foundation wall.

This leaves the blocking anchored at only one end, which seems wrong to me. But once in place there would be no way to toenail or screw the other end of the blocking into the rim joist--no room for a hammer or nail gun.

Is there another way to do this?

Thanks.
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Old 12-19-2010, 08:36 PM   #2
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Dave,
What if you took and cut your blocking and nailed a 2 x 2 to the underside of it so you could place the assembly into place and screw the 2 x 2 to the edge of the mud sill and then nail or screw through the second joist into the ends of the 2 x blocks? Follow what I'm saying.....
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Old 12-19-2010, 10:04 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firehawkmph View Post
Dave,
What if you took and cut your blocking and nailed a 2 x 2 to the underside of it so you could place the assembly into place and screw the 2 x 2 to the edge of the mud sill and then nail or screw through the second joist into the ends of the 2 x blocks? Follow what I'm saying.....
Mike Hawkins
But if all the blocks are held together by framing before I try to fit them in the space, they won't fit. I need to fit them up there one by one, turning them sideways then pushing them into position.

I could do as you suggested AFTER they were in place, but then I'd need to use blocks that were as deep as the joists, so I could nail into them from below, but the joists are 3X10 inches. It would be hard to fit 10 inch deep blocks up there.
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:40 AM   #4
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Make L-shaped blocks using two 16" pieces of 2x4----Gun them to the foundation along side the framing then nail the framing to the L-shaped blocks.

A 22 cal. stud gun only costs about $25-- and I'll bet you already have one on site for nailing the bottom plate to the floor.--Mike--
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Old 12-20-2010, 08:51 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by dave11 View Post
But if all the blocks are held together by framing before I try to fit them in the space, they won't fit. I need to fit them up there one by one, turning them sideways then pushing them into position.

I could do as you suggested AFTER they were in place, but then I'd need to use blocks that were as deep as the joists, so I could nail into them from below, but the joists are 3X10 inches. It would be hard to fit 10 inch deep blocks up there.
Dave,
Are you providing blocking just to fasten the top of the wall to, or is this wall load bearing?
Mike Hawkins
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Old 12-20-2010, 10:44 AM   #6
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Quote:
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Dave,
Are you providing blocking just to fasten the top of the wall to, or is this wall load bearing?
Mike Hawkins
This won't be load-bearing. Just need some framing to attach the top plate of the new wall.
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:02 AM   #7
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Could you put a 2x on the flat above the blocking parallel to the joist. Tie the blocking into the 2x from below and tie the 2x into the joist from the side. Or leave out the blocking and just use a 2x
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Old 12-20-2010, 10:21 PM   #8
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Dave,
In cases like yours where the wall is parallel to the joists, I have shot some 2 x 4 nailers to the block with my ramset gun to be able to fasten the wall. The nailers were about 16" long, and just nailed periodically, about every 4' and at each end, alongside a stud butted up to the underside of the plate. Then I would nail through the stud into the block. Simple and quick.
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Old 12-20-2010, 10:54 PM   #9
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Have you thought of using liquid nails heavy duty? Just a thought…
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Old 12-20-2010, 11:26 PM   #10
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Depends on how much room there is after the foam board on the rim joist. If they framed with a 2x4 sill plate (2" foam board on top), it would leave about 4" air space, enough to lay a 2x4 plate flat, bottom flush with the bottom of joist, face nail through the joist. First attach metal short straps (vertical) every 2'o.c. to the flat backer, nail it up, attach the other ends of the straps to the edge of the existing sill plate. Similar to Joed..... but with straps.
Isn't the new wood wall out/away for the 6" concrete thickness, so the inside drywall backing should be installed as pieces flat- resting on top of the new wall (room side)?
Remember to draft-stop every 10' lineally, as per code.

http://www.rd.com/57548/article57548.html

Gary
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