Just an opinion, worth only its' weight in dirt, particularly on a commercial building, I would want it anchored into something more substantial than either the brick or the mortar. I believe that I would take some careful dimensions, in order be able to lag through a mortar joint into the framing, or I would remove the affected brick(s), and fabricate a bracket or brackets, which would attach to the framing. And, going one step further, again, it being a commercial building, I might hire a licensed contractor to do the work, from a liability standpoint. On the other hand, if you wanted to attach a small bracket for a flower vase, or something of that nature, I would molly it into the mortar.
we used to hang those when we carved & gilded signs using lead shields & lags into the mortar joints,,, suspend the sign on either short lengths of chain OR hook & eye to allow wind to swing it thereby reducing wind load.
2 forces you have to consider - 1 is shear & the other is pullout - we'd use 3/8" altho 5/16" may also work.
' masonry [ masonary ] screws ' defined as concrete screws ? we wouldn't have done that but they hadn't been invented yet,,, another point - any time 1 alters the manufacturer's directions, that equates to accepting design responsibility & ensuing liability for the changes.
don't drill the brick - they're hard & you'd need a hammer drill who's vibration would loosen other brickwork,,, 'sides, plywood rots, won't hold paint, & will look like hell detracting from your very fine sign's appearance.
Thanks DexterII and itsreallyconc,
Not sure I can get to the studs, but what I hear from both of you is to go into the mortar - not the bricks. I have s-hooks (no chain) to hang the sign to allow it to blow.
Not sure the terminology, but is Lead Shields and Lags - a lag bolt with a casing to expand inside the drilled hole like an expanding anchor? That's what I have, hope it's right.
Another person I talked to mentioned adding a piece of Plywood behind the Metal Plate of the Sign Post - Using it to not only go through the 4 lag bolts, but also being able to screw it all over the place using smaller Masonry Screws - essentially bolting it to the brick in way more contact points than just the 4 corners. Any thoughts?
Point taken, no plywood (good point about the hammer drill)! As for manufacturers directions, I called them to ask their advice, and it was just a guy behind a desk telling me that he barely knew how to use a hammer... good choice on employees there sign post company!!
Thanks again,
S
Mortar is a better place to anchor to. It is more predictable since brick is highly variable and some brick are very soft and other may be very hard and brittle and may crack from an expansion type anchor when it is tightened.
The mortar is important since it is what holds the wall comprised of some sort of brick together and all wall ties and joint reinforcement goes into the mortar joint.
Dick
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