Question #1- I'm remodeling my kitchen and took out the old plaster wall. Do I need to space the drywall from the floor for any reason or can I just place the drywall right on the floor, then screw to the studs?
Question #2: What is the best way to make my cutouts in the drywall for my sockets and switches? Do I just trace them on the back of the drywall once comparing the wall sockets with the drywall or do I measure and hope that it all comes out right?
QUestion #3-There is an area where I'm keeping the plaster wall. I have made a small, 6x5 inch hole for electrical rough in. The lath has also been cut but not full removed. The lath still exists behind the wall but is not fully intact. What is a good patching compound that I can use to patch this up, eventually, subway tile will be covering the patch.
When installing the drywall, you should be pushing it up tight to the ceiling. It really shouldnt sit right on the floor. Ideally, there should be a gap somewhere around 1/2"-3/4" between floor and drywall. Base moulding is used to cover this gap.
As far as cutouts for electrical, you should probably just measure and cut before installing the drywall. Measure from the ceiling down and not from the floor because as stated above, you should be pushing the drywall to the ceiling. Most pros install the drywall over the boxes and then use a roto-zip type tool to cut around the box.
I'm not real clear on the question about the plaster thats getting covered by tile later. If there is some support to screw a drywall patch to do so....if not, you could create one by inserting a piece of 1x2 or similar material into the hole that spans across the hole far enough to screw it to the existing plaster, the screw drywall to that. (not sure if that makes sense)
Question #1- I'm remodeling my kitchen and took out the old plaster wall. Do I need to space the drywall from the floor for any reason or can I just place the drywall right on the floor, then screw to the studs?
Question #2: What is the best way to make my cutouts in the drywall for my sockets and switches? Do I just trace them on the back of the drywall once comparing the wall sockets with the drywall or do I measure and hope that it all comes out right?
Best method if you don't have access to a router (Roto-zip) is to find a common point that is straight and level. Use this point to take you measurements off of for the 'top' and 'bottom' of an electrical box. Do the same for the sides. Use a T-square to get the lines traced in pencil
always go back and double check your measurements and marks, then cut the trace out using a utility knife on the front face of the sheet. When done, cut an "X" into the rectangular outline of the box. Tap the "X" with a hammer and it should mostly 'pop' out. Clean up the hole using your utility knife to get the edges straight on your cut out.
QUestion #3-There is an area where I'm keeping the plaster wall. I have made a small, 6x5 inch hole for electrical rough in. The lath has also been cut but not full removed. The lath still exists behind the wall but is not fully intact. What is a good patching compound that I can use to patch this up, eventually, subway tile will be covering the patch.
Use Quick dry mix (like and Easy sand)....Mix it up with a consistency like peanut butter. Shove it into the area (over the lathing) and smooth out. This will serve as your 'base' coat. When it dries, go back and scrape the area smooth. Mix up another small batch and repeat. When dry, scrape the areas smooth again. If you are having trouble scraping smooth, then just try sanding it. Finish the area off with reddie mix compound. Another one or two coats should do it. As you add each coat, the next coat should slightly overlap the previous coat. Each coat should also be slightly thinner in it's thickness than the previous.
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