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Old 11-25-2009, 04:37 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
"My building inspec. just said I could build straight from the slab." -------- Really? Usually, they want a footing and stem wall on garage conversions at the big door opening. And possibly a vapor barrier plastic and rigid insulation, if building off the slab.

The exterior wall must prevent water penetration- IRC703.1 (Not caulking a p.t.4x4.

Concrete or masonry wall to extend 6" above finish grade - 404.1.6

The floor system needs to be engineered for the permit, or at least drawn out and approved.
You need a second window or door minimum egress from the bedroom: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuild...s-windows.aspx

The roof system needs engineering if cathedral. Rafter ties required or a structural ridge beam, not collar ties.
Your County's Health Department should be notified with the bathroom addition.
Is there a furnace or HWT in the location? One conversion I did required a 24" high shear wall across the garage, under the floor for shear flow. Be safe, Gary

I asked if I could built the wall to fill the opening from the slab using a pressure treated plate....he said that would be acceptable. I swear.

So can I just use rebar to "pin" the current curb on each side and then on the slab and pour a curb using forms?

Would you recommend using 6 mm poly on top of the concrete and then rigid insulation and then joists?
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Old 11-25-2009, 08:38 PM   #17
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You could use 2x6 or 2x8 if you want but you might have to run a little berring support wall in the center of the garage. We had to do that in one project that we did. In our case we were matching the floor height in the house. Normally the ceiling in the garage is the same height as the house. But maybe yours is different. As far as the door opening is concerned, we just drilled for rebar into the concrete and then ran a corse of block. The rebar tied the block into the concrete and then we ran a plate on the block with anchor bolts. Everthing tied in well and we haven't seen any problems with moisture.
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Old 11-25-2009, 09:35 PM   #18
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You could use 2x6 or 2x8 if you want but you might have to run a little berring support wall in the center of the garage. We had to do that in one project that we did. In our case we were matching the floor height in the house. Normally the ceiling in the garage is the same height as the house. But maybe yours is different. As far as the door opening is concerned, we just drilled for rebar into the concrete and then ran a corse of block. The rebar tied the block into the concrete and then we ran a plate on the block with anchor bolts. Everthing tied in well and we haven't seen any problems with moisture.

Thanks. I was thinking of doing something similar with concrete block. As far as the ceiling, I don't think I'll have to worry about adding a bearing wall. Our entire garage sits about 3 feet lower than the house, so it will become a sunken room of sorts.
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Old 11-27-2009, 09:57 AM   #19
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Okay...so with some more thought (not sure if that helped or hurt I was thinking about using a waterproofing paint for the slab, then 6mm poly then lay rigid foam insulation across the entire floor. They I would lay my joists atop the foam insulation (I would probably hang a ledger attached to the wall a couple of inches off the ground to help with the uneven floor) Then I would use batt insulation in between joists....Does this sound good?
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Old 11-27-2009, 07:29 PM   #20
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I guess you could do that if it would make you feel better. You are doing everything twice though. The hydrolic paint is a form of vapor berrier, and then you are putting a second vapor barrier in the form of plastic. Also if you get a closed cell foam board, that is infact a vapor berrier along with an insulator, and then you are insulating again in the floor joists. I just sounds to me that you are wanting to spend money to do the same thing multiple times. However if you want to consider it an investment in peace of mind then I don't really see any problems off hand that it would cause.
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Old 11-27-2009, 09:20 PM   #21
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I guess you could do that if it would make you feel better. You are doing everything twice though. The hydrolic paint is a form of vapor berrier, and then you are putting a second vapor barrier in the form of plastic. Also if you get a closed cell foam board, that is infact a vapor berrier along with an insulator, and then you are insulating again in the floor joists. I just sounds to me that you are wanting to spend money to do the same thing multiple times. However if you want to consider it an investment in peace of mind then I don't really see any problems off hand that it would cause.

Would I need to used unfaces batt insulation between the joists and over the rigid foam? (I just don't want to trap moisture by using faced insulation with the foam board)
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Old 11-28-2009, 07:15 AM   #22
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Like I said, I don't see anything wrong with your plan. I have done things in past projects that others think are overkill but it gave me piece of mind knowing that I don't have to worry. It sounds like this is what you are trying to do, so if it makes you more comfortable then I say go for it. I understand your concerns and without actually seeing your situation I can't say if it is overkill or not so I think that in the end you are the one that will decide what it best for you. Good luck and have fun. Rob
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Old 11-28-2009, 01:16 PM   #23
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Sounds as if you are worried about moisture: http://www.buildingscience.com/docum...n-crawlspaces/

Be safe, Gary
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