Framing A Door - Building & Construction - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Building & Construction


Thread Tools
Display Modes
Old 10-21-2011, 03:23 PM   #1
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 4
Rewards Points: 10

Framing a Door

So I have a landing at the top of my basement stairs that has two doors. One door goes out to my family room and the other goes to the kitchen.

Picture it this way. Walking up the stairs at the landing, to the L and up one step is a door to my kitchen. In front of the landing (farthest point away from the stairs), there is a door to my family room.

So essentially, I have 2 doors that are adjascent to each other...

I want to eliminate both doors and replace them with one door at the top of the staircase.

I would have to frame this myself, as I am about 2 inches shy of being able to use a pre-hung door (plus the wife wants to re-purpose a door, rather than buy one)...

What type of lumber would you recommend to build my own jamb?

Size and lumber type would be great...thanks!
jonnyl95 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 10-21-2011, 04:42 PM   #2
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 11,194
Rewards Points: 5,348

Pine 1x5 or 6" ripped to the needed width. A drywalled house usually has 4 9/16" jambs. Yours might be different.
You can buy pre made interior jambs and cut to fit the pieces to size. They run about $20.00 if I remember correctly.
"They that can give up essential liberty to obtain a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety."
B. Franklin 1759
Ron6519 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 10-21-2011, 04:45 PM   #3
journeyman carpenter
woodworkbykirk's Avatar
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: nova scotia canada
Posts: 3,480
Rewards Points: 1,578

if you need to build a custom size jamb you can get jamb kits alone. it has a header peice and two legs. you just cut them to the size you need. from there you'll have to mortise for the hinges and drill for the striker plate on teh opposite side. if the wood comes unprimed i will typically cut my header peice 5/16" longer than the width of the door which will allow for a layer of primer and two coats of paint, once its done your margin should be close to 1/8 on both sides. for the legs of the jamb i cut them the height of the door plus 1/2" to allow for air flow under the door + the thickness of the header stock and an additional 1/8 for the margin on the top of the door

say 80" door with 5/8 jamb stock.. equals 81 1/2" jamb legs, also take into consideration the floor being out of level.. in which you have to allow for it when cutting hte legs
woodworkbykirk is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need to replace front door, existing door non-standard size uncle Windows and Doors 1 07-25-2011 07:50 AM
Door Framing Question biggidybankston Carpentry 4 12-10-2009 01:26 PM
Larson Storm Door Won't Close Snowbird Building & Construction 13 03-03-2009 04:01 AM
Pocket Door Framing and installation res17nn9 Carpentry 4 11-04-2008 05:42 AM

Top of Page | View New Posts