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Old 09-24-2010, 02:30 PM   #1
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Floor leveling


Some Background: I have a 110 yr old house w/ a crawlspace. It has pier and girder construction with a footing and stem wall perimeter. The floors are crowned due to the original brick stem wall decomposing. That issue was addressed some time ago with a new poured concrete footing and stem wall. When the work was done no attempt was made to level anything only to stabilize the perimeter foundation. The hardwood floors have buckled due to the perimeter sagging so I have removed much of the finish floor and want to level the floor joists. The joists are rough sawn 2X8 redwood on 24" centers. The sub floor is 7/8" qtr sawn T&G Doug fir which is to be removed. The room is 12-1/2 ft wide and the floor is flat and level for about 6 ft from the interior wall then drops 1" in 6'6".
One plan is to clamp 2X6's to the sides of the joists at the desired level, scribe them, cut to the line then glue and screw them to the top of the joist as a shim. The other plan would mount the 2X6's the same way but sister them on using construction adhesive and lags. I may have to plane the old joist somewhat to get a true flat and level floor.
I plan on using 23/32" Sturd-I-Floor plywood for the sub floor. So to maintain the 7/8" dimension I plan to either use continuous shims between the 2X6's and Sturd-I-Floor or install an underlayment on top of the Sturd-I-Floor to make up the difference.
What is the best way to proceed? Would a vapor barrier be required since there is none now? Also due to the 24" joist spacing would blocking to help stiffen the floor be a good idea?
Any recommendations as to methods or materials will be greatly appreciated. Thanks and sorry for the long winded post.
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Old 09-24-2010, 04:25 PM   #2
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i think that sistering would be a lot easier and save more time. Find the highest point and run a 4 or 6' level off that highest point and attach the new 2x8's accordingly. I think that with the new subfloor and underlayment, the floor will be plenty ridgid
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Old 09-24-2010, 04:53 PM   #3
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level or laser


Thanks for the info. I have access to a rotary laser level so I can find an elevation at any point in the floor. But to be honest I haven't found it as accurate as a good bubble level when the two are compared.
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Old 09-24-2010, 05:10 PM   #4
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Millertyme nailed it---Sistering is the way to go---I attach a straight level board above the old joists and simply raise the new 'sisters' up to the board.

Redwood and fir? Sounds like California.
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Old 09-24-2010, 07:53 PM   #5
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leveling board


Thanks Oh'Mike. I can see how that would be as accurate as a bubble level and easier than a laser level. And yes I'm in California where the only thing higher than the redwoods are the taxes!

Last edited by tglass47; 09-24-2010 at 07:55 PM.
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