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syborg 11-23-2009 11:20 AM

fireplace and chimney top rebuild???
hi folks.
im so glad ive found a building forum.
heres my question....

i own a late 60s build bungalow.

it had a stove enameled coal fire with back boiler and 8inch clay chimney.

well....during a renovation project i foolishly had the chimney removed, just the top bit, and the fire ripped out, the fire in all fairness was ready for the scrap heap,

so i have a nice brick hole in my living room 2ft wide x 1.5 ft deep and about 2.5-3 ft high. with the inside top beveling to the 8 inch clay pipe.

what i propose to do is to render the inside the fireplace with heatproof screed, fit a hearth. obviously have the chimney rebuild and to reproduce a medieval type open fire with a grate.

so my question is.

is this possible with an 8 inch flue and what sort of money am i looking at to have the chimney rebuilt or can i simply have some kind of stainless flue fitted to the existing chimney in the loft and a flash tile fitted?

any help will be greatly appreaciated..

many thanks


Bob Mariani 11-23-2009 02:41 PM

The stainless steel inserts can be used in most situations. A new chimney rebuild may cost about $8,500 But I am sure some are cheaper than I charge. The size of the flue is determined by the size of the fireplace opening. 8" flue is more for a old furnace.. fireplaces use 14" and up.

stuart45 11-23-2009 02:52 PM

can you put some photos on.
I don't think that Bob realised that you are in the UK. I've never seen a 14inch flue on a domestic fire here. The price sounds about right though.

syborg 11-24-2009 10:56 AM

hi folks.

the chimney that needs rebuilding was originaly only about 120cm tall and about 40cms square.

i,ll post some pics up in the next hour or so..



syborg 11-24-2009 12:05 PM

4 Attachment(s)
as promised. some pics of what i have at the mo

the fireplace is 25 inches wide x 29 inches high and 14 inches deep.

the flue is bang on 8 inches in diameter.

obviously the height of the fireplace is about 39 inches including the part u cannot see without looking up into it including the angled part that funnels into the flue pipe.

ive noticed there is some cracking on the first 3 inches or so of the clay pipe.

off the top of my head i cant remember how the old coal fire was sealed inside the hole.

but u can see some screen has come away just below the flue port..

even if it is way too expensive im still thinkin of skimming it over inside and put a grate in with some nicely sawn oak logs, would look really nice.

any advice would be greatly appreciated.



stuart45 11-24-2009 05:13 PM

Ideally you need to put in a fireback with vermiculite fill at the back for maximum efficiency. You may find that the fire will not draw as well if you use the builders opening with a dog basket for the fire.

syborg 11-25-2009 11:10 AM

hi stew.

did a bit of research last night on this and apparently theres a 9:1 formula for calculating fire dimensions using the flue diameter.

ive worked out my fire can be 18 inches square which will then provide the best amount of fire and draft.

obviously my builders hole will need reducing in width to acheive this.

im still getting quotes for the chimney rebuild. been quote 700-800 quid so far depending on any unforseen work thats needed.

as for the fireback i,ll keep my eyes peeled but ive seen a few nice fire baskets that have one built on.



stuart45 11-25-2009 03:42 PM

The fireback will reduce the opening to the correct size. You will also need to install a throat lintel.

syborg 11-26-2009 01:52 PM

1 Attachment(s)
hi again stu,

this is the kinda thing im thinkin of but obviously screeded with heatproof screed then a nice dog basket fitted.

stuart45 11-26-2009 04:15 PM

It depends on whether you are looking for heating efficiency or looks. With a fireback installed it would be more efficient.
An open fire can actually be minus efficient when used in conjunction with central heating rads, as they can't cope with the extra cold air brought in by the open fire.

syborg 11-27-2009 11:57 AM

cheers stu

lol what a nightmare,lol
im not gonna be using rads.

i think i,ll try the open type first then if it doesnt work out too well i,ll get a fire back and throat lintel.

now comes the matter of ventilation, i have 2 trickle vents fitted to my french doors in the same room but i guess i will need extra vents.

i dont remember there being any extra vents when i had the parkray going,

but saying that we had single glazed windows original from 1970s. now we have upvc windows and doors.a little less draughty. we did however have extra air bricks fitted in the kitchen when we had a new oil fired boiler fitted.

i appreciate your advise stewart. this is a task i had never even thought about and u have given me sound advice.,

cheers mate


syborg 11-28-2009 03:29 AM

6 Attachment(s)
last night i set about the rough inside of my builderss opening with a nice big bolster, a club hammer, a trowel and a bucket of mortar.

after 2.5 hrs of banging, smashing and throwing mortar about i made it look alot better.

filled up some holes and bricked up a small cavity where my rayburn pipes used to run and did some repointing where the old mortar had crumbled.

i also built out the lintel that i had to cut away when the old fire was removed.

ive never ever touched a trowel before so i think i did ok.



syborg 11-28-2009 03:38 AM

3 Attachment(s)
heres a few more pics taken this morning.
the mortar has lightened up now and doesnt look so out of place,lol



stuart45 11-28-2009 05:43 AM

Looks a good solid job. See how it goes without a fire back.

syborg 11-28-2009 12:17 PM


Originally Posted by stuart45 (Post 358483)
Looks a good solid job. See how it goes without a fire back.

cheers stu.

gotta chap comin to quote up the chimney top next week so once the hearths done im gonna buy a cheap fire basket and give it a go.

i,ll probably end up gettin the fireback anyway but at least i can build onto this project rather than doin it and regret trying other stuff,lol

the builder seems quite confident that it will be fine.

im gonna skim the inside of the hole with heatproof screed anyway to be on the safe side.

plus it will neaten up my appauling cement work,lol



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