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Old 08-15-2019, 04:28 PM   #1
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Finishing fascia/subfascia transition for rake edge on pitch transitioning roof


Good day, everyone,

I have finally reached the point where I completed framing of the new sunroom/covered porch combination and am working on finer details. The new roof is a lower sloping (3/12) barn roof that attaches to main roof (about 6/12). To tie the new roof to old, I nailed on a piece of 2x12 directly to old rafters in the middle of the roof, cut new roof rafters at an angle to attach flush to this board. I then ran and overlapped OSB sheathing and connected two roof sheathings. Left side of this structure does not go all the way to the end of the existing house, therefore, it will terminate normally, with built up siding wall between old roof and new roof (similar to a dormer). The right side (pictured below) terminates in line with current roof’s rake, therefore, extra overhang of old roof below the connection will be trimmed and the existing siding wall will be continued for the new structure. However, I cannot seem to decide best way to form the fascia board and subfascia at the new rake.

I have created 3 options. The most important thing I consider is the structure - I want not only the new rafters to securely attach to the 2x12 board from the top, but also securely tie in the old rafter below to the board to prevent sagging in the future, since 2x12 is the only thing that holds overhang of old roof on bottom of it. If I only depend on the sheathing and ladder to hold old overhand, it may sag over time without attachment to a very sturdy 2x12.

Now, Options 1 and 2 are (in my opinion) the sturdiest, as they provide more full-size 2x6 bottom rafter for support attachment, but yet create the largest box.

Option 3 is the neatest looking, as it basically eliminated the “box” idea and keeps the fascia size the same everywhere, but requires more cutting of old rafter (and some 2x12 also), while reducing the strength of connection.
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Finishing fascia/subfascia transition for rake edge on pitch transitioning roof-option1.jpg   Finishing fascia/subfascia transition for rake edge on pitch transitioning roof-option2.jpg   Finishing fascia/subfascia transition for rake edge on pitch transitioning roof-option3.jpg  
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Old 08-15-2019, 04:42 PM   #2
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Re: Finishing fascia/subfascia transition for rake edge on pitch transitioning roof


Add 3/4" plywood to the ladder or modify the ladder s to take 3/4" plywood over the join and put the normal join in the fascia
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Old 08-15-2019, 05:10 PM   #3
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Re: Finishing fascia/subfascia transition for rake edge on pitch transitioning roof


Nealtw, thank you for the response. I am not exactly sure what you mean. I already have the 2x12 board sandwiched between the upper and lower rafters. That connection ends up being wider when you take all 3 components together than a standard piece of fascia. I would need to cut the bottom rafter parallel to the bottom edge of new lower slope rafter to create continuity of same dimensions. Would that be recommended? How should I reinforce the connection between two rafters and the 2x12 plate to reduced risk of rafter sagging? Use a metal tie of sorts?

And for adding plywood, is that for strength? Where exactly do I add it to and is it supposed to bend over the joint in the ladder portion?

Last edited by eugene89us; 08-15-2019 at 05:11 PM. Reason: Extra info
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Old 08-15-2019, 05:41 PM   #4
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Re: Finishing fascia/subfascia transition for rake edge on pitch transitioning roof


Quote:
Originally Posted by eugene89us View Post
Nealtw, thank you for the response. I am not exactly sure what you mean. I already have the 2x12 board sandwiched between the upper and lower rafters. That connection ends up being wider when you take all 3 components together than a standard piece of fascia. I would need to cut the bottom rafter parallel to the bottom edge of new lower slope rafter to create continuity of same dimensions. Would that be recommended? How should I reinforce the connection between two rafters and the 2x12 plate to reduced risk of rafter sagging? Use a metal tie of sorts?

And for adding plywood, is that for strength? Where exactly do I add it to and is it supposed to bend over the joint in the ladder portion?
No I am confused. A ladder consists of a 2x4 against the wall, sort blocks and a matching 2x4 outboard under the sheeting. One fix would be to cut the hockey stick shape out of plywood to make that joint strong. And that is what I put in the first post.



The other is to cut the top rake and let the lower one run under and tie the two together.



You are talking about rafters, usually there are no rafters as such outboard of the building.
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Old 08-15-2019, 11:04 PM   #5
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You know what is crazy, I have built multiple buildings (mostly slab on grade sheds and additions) for myself and family members, had everything permitted and inspected, but nobody ever told me that the overhang is done with 2x4 rafters instead of 2x6. I have been using 2x6 rafters all this time, attached with 2x6 ladders to the last rafter on the building. What is the harm in having a (supposedly) stronger structure? Maybe extra weight would outweigh the benefit of strength, but I have always overdone on ladders and notching the last rafter for a longer and stronger ladder span. Now that makes sense how a 0.75x5.5 fascia always was wider than subfascia it attached to. That means I need to increase my Hardie Fascia to 7.5 inch width to accommodate extra width of the overhang rafter.
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Old 08-15-2019, 11:19 PM   #6
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Re: Finishing fascia/subfascia transition for rake edge on pitch transitioning roof


Quote:
Originally Posted by eugene89us View Post
You know what is crazy, I have built multiple buildings (mostly slab on grade sheds and additions) for myself and family members, had everything permitted and inspected, but nobody ever told me that the overhang is done with 2x4 rafters instead of 2x6. I have been using 2x6 rafters all this time, attached with 2x6 ladders to the last rafter on the building. What is the harm in having a (supposedly) stronger structure? Maybe extra weight would outweigh the benefit of strength, but I have always overdone on ladders and notching the last rafter for a longer and stronger ladder span. Now that makes sense how a 0.75x5.5 fascia always was wider than subfascia it attached to. That means I need to increase my Hardie Fascia to 7.5 inch width to accommodate extra width of the overhang rafter.
People are fooled all the time even when rafters are 2x10 or 2x12 the tails are cut so they are 2x4 on the overhang. But even with 2x4 fly rafters our fascia is 2x10. It is just the normal here.
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:30 AM   #7
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Re: Finishing fascia/subfascia transition for rake edge on pitch transitioning roof


Well, I do feel like such a fool that in all these years I did not pick up on this, despite all evidence being there to support downsized floating rafters vs. common rafters.

The shame here is the front of the house is complete with 5.5" wide Hardie siding for fascia. The back of the house will end up having 7.5" fascia, which may look a bit funny. However, the new sunroom uses 2x6 studs per code vs. house built with 2x4, so some variation is certainly expected. I could always snap a line and cut off 2 inches from the fly rafter that is already in place, but I know my cut won't be a smooth as factory cut, it is a 24-foot span, and probably narrower fly rafter is more likely to sag over time.

I think I will play around with a 0.75x7.5 Hardie trim. That way, I may not even have to notch much at the connection, since 2x4 was used for original roof's fly rafter. With 7.5-inch hardie, I have more thickness to leave in place for better attachment to the 2x12 support board. All rafters being tied into the 2x12 on top and a porch beam on bottom will provide sag-less fly rafter. And I have a ladder connecting terminal common rafter to the fly rafter.

On the opposite side, I do not have a porch beam, therefore the 2x6 fly rafter is not as well supported on bottom. Therefore, I notched terminal common rafter and ran outrigger 4 feet OC from second common rafter to fly rafter. That is in addition to the standard matching ladder similar to other side. I doubt anything will sag for a 16" overhang.
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