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Old 02-13-2010, 06:35 PM   #16
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Sounds like a plan. 1-1/2" strips would work as well as no need to seal the gap between top plates. That would stop any heat loss from the opening or by convection: http://oikos.com/library/insulating_...lls/index.html

It appears the rise is 3 or 4" per foot run on your house, judging only from the vertical grain of the rafter. With a 3-1/4" plumb cut would be a 13" or -10" level cut sitting on a 5-1/2" wide plate, means a 7-1/2" or 4-1/2" material sitting on air or reverse cut next to inside wall.

2x12 rafters, hopefully the framer installed a hanger on the reverse cut to carry the heel: http://www.housingzone.com/proremode...CA462902.html#

The insulation over the wall requires a Windblocker with the foam baffle, to prevent wind washing there. Or install these: http://www.bergerbuildingproducts.co...sAccuvent.html http://www.adoproducts.com/wind.html

The best way over the wall with a low slope: http://www.homeenergy.org/archive/he...96/961110.html

Be safe, Gary
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Old 02-13-2010, 08:45 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
Sounds like a plan. 1-1/2" strips would work as well as no need to seal the gap between top plates. That would stop any heat loss from the opening or by convection: http://oikos.com/library/insulating_...lls/index.html

It appears the rise is 3 or 4" per foot run on your house, judging only from the vertical grain of the rafter. With a 3-1/4" plumb cut would be a 13" or -10" level cut sitting on a 5-1/2" wide plate, means a 7-1/2" or 4-1/2" material sitting on air or reverse cut next to inside wall.

2x12 rafters, hopefully the framer installed a hanger on the reverse cut to carry the heel: http://www.housingzone.com/proremode...CA462902.html#

The insulation over the wall requires a Windblocker with the foam baffle, to prevent wind washing there. Or install these: http://www.bergerbuildingproducts.co...sAccuvent.html http://www.adoproducts.com/wind.html

The best way over the wall with a low slope: http://www.homeenergy.org/archive/he...96/961110.html

Be safe, Gary

Yes, as you state 1-1/2" would work. I found 3-1/2 x 8' furring strips that will fit and not require ripping. Just have to cut to specific length for each rafter cavity width.

Not sure of the exact rise/run but not much slope to the roof. As to any type of hanger, I doubt it. It's very difficult to see down that far even inside the attic. I will look but I'll need to remove the batt insulation.

Actually I'm installing the ADO ProVents. I did see those wind blockers on their Web page. I had to drive many miles to find the ProVents since they were not available locally. Didn't want the install the styrofoam ones.

We appear to be on the same page for the going over the top plate with insulation. I plan to install foam board or similar in between the ceiling rafters to rectify another issue. Might as well extent it out over the top plate and well.

The house has tongue and groove ceiling. Over time, gaps have developed in the T&G. So the plan is to cut foam board into 22.5" strips and lay them on top of the T&G boards. Seals the edges with spray form, then reinstall the insulation.
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:46 PM   #18
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The 1x4 furring will work fine. I'd caulk the wall plate side edge near the gap at install, to seal the wall cavity tight. Lay a bead just before installing the wood.

It's good you added the H2.5's because the builder forgot the required blocking on the wall between rafters to prevent overturning: Sec. 2326.12.8. Blocking. Roof rafters and ceiling joists shall be supported laterally to prevent rotations and lateral displacement when required by Section 2306.7. Screws are better than nothing. Good catch!

If the ceiling joists are on top of the wall, the rafters don't go below the ceiling with a hanger. Sometimes, the ceiling is dropped below to accommodate the rafters, but rarely.

Good choice on the Provents (26) over the foam ones (18.7), with 40% more NFVA (net free venting area) per bay, which you need with a low slope roof. And it is deeper from the roof deck which vents better at the low angle.

"The house has tongue and groove ceiling. Over time, gaps have developed in the T&G. So the plan is to cut foam board into 22.5" strips and lay them on top of the T&G boards. Seals the edges with spray form, then reinstall the insulation." --- Is this an accessible attic cathedral ceiling? OR, more likely, a flat ceiling with boards directly on the ceiling joists?

Be safe, Gary
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:13 PM   #19
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Thanks for the words of encouragement and installation points Gary. Frustration mounts each time I find another problem.

I now understand your point about the blocking between the rafters to prevent overturning. I see nothing like that installed.

Just curious. The sections you mentioned, 2306 and 2326, are they from the Commercial or Residential Building Code? Why I ask is, the County building department emailed me a page on another issue and the section was numbered R314. I'll want to read that section on the blocking.

Ceiling is both flat and cathedral. Flat section has the T&G boards attached to the horizontal rafters. The catherdal has the T&G ceiling boards attached to the 2x12 sloped rafters. There is no access to the sloped section without removing the roof decking.

I'll work the flat first; easier access even with the minimal slope. The cathedral side will require removal of the roof decking. Don't even want to think about that right now. The roof decking is also T&G vs. plywood. I'm sure the T&G decking boards will be a complete toss after removal, but maybe some can be saved.

Last edited by Earnie; 02-14-2010 at 07:19 PM.
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Old 02-14-2010, 09:32 PM   #20
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"The sections you mentioned, 2306 and 2326, are they from the Commercial or Residential Building Code? " ------- It's from an older 1994 Uniform Building Code that I use quite a bit because it covers most all the framing questions. Most Counties are now using the International Residential Code, but not all. It's a lot harder to find the IRC in all entirety online. My code books are older so it's easier to access and cross reference. Here's the main one I use:
http://www.mcvicker.com/resguide/page010.htm

"The cathedral side will require removal of the roof decking." ------ As you remove the car decking, add (alignment-keeping) 1x4's every 5', to keep the rafters from moving while walking on them- stressing the connections of the t&g ceiling below.

Be safe, Gary
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