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|03-30-2010, 11:32 PM||#16|
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 11,730Rewards Points: 526
R-38 is recommended for your 200 zip code, as per plan: http://www.ornl.gov/cgi-bin/cgiwrap?...le/ins_fact.pl
I would use foam boards to boost the R-value in the sloped area.
I would use foam board at the rims: http://www.rd.com/57548/article57548.html
Shallow roof ends need special care to prevent wind-washing: http://www.homeenergy.org/archive/he...96/961110.html
Terminate the dryer hood a distance from the AHU, not to draw lint and muck it up.
You do have 24” of vertical placed rigid foam at the foundation, as per plan. Be sure to add control joints for the future cracks in the slab…. Do a search for that on this site.
Be sure to install the ventilation baffles as per manufacturer, with the 1” space between baffle ends: http://www.adoproducts.com/provent.html OR: http://www.bergerbuildingproducts.co...sAccuvent.html
Read up on balanced ventilation for attics and rafters: http://www.fureyco.com/content/image...ng_The_Air.pdf
Make sure the NFVA is correct for the size of exhaust: http://www.lomanco.com/ProductPAGES/CirkVents.html
Plan ahead: http://www.easydigging.com/Drainage/pipe_tile.html
Everything else looks good!
Be safe, Gary
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17,000 dryer fires a year, when did you last clean the inside of the dryer near motor or the exhaust ducting?
|03-31-2010, 06:22 AM||#17|
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Washington, DC
Posts: 355Rewards Points: 250
Gary - Thanks so much for all your insight. Regarding the attic insulation, we've actually decided to go a different route, it is just not reflected on this set of plans. We've decided to spray foam the entire underside of the roof deck. There is some interesting info on the practice here. Any thoughts? This will actually allow us to reduce the sloped area a bit AND get R-38 throughout. The big thing though is that by sealing the roof with the closed cell foam, there is no need to ventilate the attic at all. Hopefully this eliminates the effects of the wind washing.
I think I will likely spray foam the rim joists as well since I will have the material, but I will keep the foam board in mind in case that does not work out.
How much distance should there be between the dryer vent and the AHU, any thoughts?
So, the foundation design looks good to you? Any issues, concerns or thoughts? It's ok to have a turned down footing on the west wall and a standard footing on the south wall? I am sure this isn't done all the time, but a competent mason should be able to pull this off, right?
Also, have you ever worked with epoxy anchor bolts? I need to use them to connect the ledger shown in my earlier drawings to a double wythe brick wall. I will also have to use them to connect a deck ledger to a double wythe brick wall. I have been considering using the Hilti HY-20 system. Will this work? I am confused somewhat by the instructions however, because my bricks are 75 years old and are solid, without any voids like bricks have today. Do I need to drill all the way through both wythes of brick? This will be fine for the deck ledger, but not the wall ledger. Any thoughts?
Oh, and any thoughts on the roof? The architect has speced a shingle roof at a 2:12 pitch, but with ice and water shield applied to the whole deck. My preference would be an EPDM roof, at that pitch. Any thoughts?
Last edited by stubits; 03-31-2010 at 06:42 AM.
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