Diamond Core Bit To Drill A Dryer Vent Through Brick - Building & Construction - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

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Old 10-19-2010, 08:59 PM   #1
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diamond core bit to drill a dryer vent through brick

i have a 97 year old house that needs new windows in the basement. However the old owners vented the dryer through a window cutout. Since i'm building a bathroom in the same spot, i need max light into the room, thus.. new dryer and bathroom vent hole. i've watched a couple of videos on youtube on using diamond core drill and it seems easy enough. I have a hammer drill that i have been using to tap concrete anchors for a support post. so the question is whether i can use the same hammer drill to tap our a dry and bathroom vent hole though some pretty hick old old brick walls roughtly 10 inches thick? otherwise, should i get a professional to do it? i really rather not do the chisel/hammer method to drill the hole. tx
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Old 10-19-2010, 09:12 PM   #2
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Ask a local plumber how much they would charge to cut the hole.
They often have the diamond bit and a water fed drill.
Works great.
Short of cutting off a body part, the worst that can happen in woodworking is manufacturing really nice looking kindling. --- Quoted from lenaitch
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Old 10-20-2010, 05:25 AM   #3
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Also,Look under 'core drilling' and 'concrete cutting'.---There are companies that just make holes---
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Old 10-20-2010, 10:53 AM   #4
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chances are your plumber will have a 110v weka drill & a 4" bit,,, if not, you can rent the bit,,, core drilling on a brick face does take some experience due to anchoring problems,,, dropping 1 of those rigs on your toe hurts
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Old 10-20-2010, 12:36 PM   #5
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Two different bits, two different machines. The red bit is a wet coring bit, used with a coring rig (NOT handheld). These rigs can be mounted to a wall for cores through a vertical face. The silver bit is a hammer drill bit, for a machine like a Hilti TE-56.

If you don't care that the hole gets mangled and ragged, use the TE-56. If you want a smooth hole, the coring rig is the tool to use. Just an fyi, we own our own collection of TE-56's and TE-76's, and we also own an old B&D coring rig with the vac plate and outriggers, but we normally call in a coring company to do cores. On a job with 90 cores, we usually get charged $20-$30 per core. For a half dozen cores, we get charged the minimum trip charge, which is a half day's labor with our vendor. And we gladly pay it. Humping around a core rig for one or two holes, particularly vertical holes, is just a distraction when you're running pipe for a living. Much more enjoyable working that way.

(yep, hours later, I realize I forgot to upload the images. Below you see the red and silver bits. Don't let the scale fool you, though. Both bits are actually the same relative size and length in real life.)
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Last edited by Aggie67; 10-20-2010 at 09:13 PM.
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Old 10-20-2010, 01:17 PM   #6
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there is also a dry core bit similar to the wet core bit but intended for dry use. With a strong hand and a bit of luck and a little practice, this is the easiest and fastest for a one hole situation. No need to anchor the drill and it gives a very good finished hole.

you would need the proper drill for this. What you have is not the proper drill.

using a hammer drill on brick can be a problem. If not used carefully, you can break the mortar joint and cause the need for repair.

warning: dry core bits do not like rebar.
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Old 10-20-2010, 06:16 PM   #7
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We have a few hand held rotary hammers (like what Aggie is mentioning) and up to a 5" dry core bit. We just drilled a few 5" holes into 4" concrete veneer last week, and I'd estimate them at about 10 minutes per hole. I've drilled both 8" & 10" poured walls, as well as some brick in the past, and would say that this approach through what you have would take 30-45 minutes WITHOUT stopping. This of course requires renting some specialized tools and a lot of strength to keep the drill going. It will feel like it' snever going to go through.

Originally Posted by nap View Post
warning: dry core bits do not like rebar.

I know a mason who core drilled for their own dryer and happened to hit a pilaster becasue he was in too big of a hurry to investigate first. The pilasters were on 12' centers too, but just had to be smack-dab in the center of the core hole. I (I mean he ) will certainly agree that rebar will stop an expensive core bit in a hurry.
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:23 PM   #8
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ok - there's more - the reason i suggest a weka hand/held is that its the easiest way to do it,,, anchoring a core drill rig into brick isn't foolproof - we used to thru-bolt the base to the wall &, many times, had to use a spreader bar inside to distribute the bit's pressure,,, an ordinary 20amp drill weighs 30# - at the top of the drill's mast, it weighs 2X as much figuring most core bits are 12 - 14" tall.

bits come in all colors - we've got orange, black, & blue for 2" but its just what different manufacturers pick for their brands,,, dri-core bits are engineered differently from the diamond matrix to the barrels,,, probably the only thing that's the same for all bits is the thread,,, 1 can use dry bits to core wet but the reverse isn't true because of segment matrix, diamond size, & how the segs are attached to the barrel's pads.

the absolute WORST thing for a driller is running into steel - not the width but the length,,, you can core across steel BUT coring the length is a large PITA,,, if a piece of steel breaks off, the bit jams & you're likely to lose segments - OUCH - break out the spare segs & the silver solder

& so endeth this post ask the plumber
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