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Old 04-23-2015, 09:39 PM   #1
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Deck Ledger


I had a friend help me build a frame for my deck. We removed part of the siding and tacked the ledger to the house. We then proceeded to hang the joists and finish the frame. After doing some research, I found that we did not put any flashing under the ledger, there is just some house wrap between the ledger and the house itself. Is there any way I can properly flash the ledger at this point? I still haven't bolted the ledger to the house but pulling the nails out at will prove very tricky because we used a nail gun.
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Old 04-23-2015, 09:49 PM   #2
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Many choices likely. But in the older days one bolted the ledger to the house and then treated it like a window or a door, that is flashed under the course of siding above and then laps over top of the ledger like window cap. Not preferred these days, but likely workable. Ron
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Old 04-24-2015, 12:43 AM   #3
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Why flash behind the ledger board, Fig,14; http://www.awc.org/Publications/DCA/DCA6/DCA6-09.pdf
Or does the siding extend down below the ledger? Are you talking about a second story or split level?

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Old 04-24-2015, 06:37 AM   #4
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Thanks for the replies Gary and Ron. The siding does continue a few inches below the ledger. But what I really meant was that there is no flashing behind the ledger board. So I'm concerned of rotting out the wood.
Ron, do you think it will be sufficient to flash only above the ledger as you stated? Or should I try and remove the board from the house and get the flashing behind the board?
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Old 04-24-2015, 08:08 AM   #5
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Is this a single story deck?
If so you would have been far batter off making it a free standing deck so there's 0 chance of damage to the house.
If I have to do a ledger I remove the the siding, install Storm and Ice shield to the wall making sure it runs just below the foundation.
I do the lay out on the ledger for the joist before attaching it so I know I will not have a bolt where a joist goes.
I then install strips of 1 X 4 PVC lumber sitting vertical to the back side of the ledger with 2, roofing nails to act as a spacer so no waters going to lay between the ledger and the wall.
Predrill clearance holes through the ledger and spacer for 1/2 lags.
Then install the ledger.
The top surface of the decking must be a min. of 2" below any door openings, if you live in a snow area it should be from 6 to 7" below the openings.
If not water will get in under the threshold and take out the flooring.
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Old 04-24-2015, 08:25 AM   #6
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I did a similar project about five years ago. In hindsight, I think I would go with a freestanding deck, but at the time I thought digging the extra holes for additional sonotubes and posts was more work than necessary.

I think Joecaption has good ideas. The only thing I would add is that you need to flash over the top of the ledger, see Figure 14 in the Prescriptive Guide (link provided by Gary in WA). I notice the detail in Figure 14 is slightly different than it was five years ago, probably not important, but it is essential to use flashing which is compatible with your PT lumber. Copper would probably be best, very expensive, but if you put down a piece of Ice and Water Shield over the ledger you can use aluminum (that is what I did). Make sure any nails you use are compatible with the PT lumber, hot dipped galvanized are usually OK, stainless may be better. A lot of the new PT lumber uses quaternary copper treatment, it eats ordinary steel nails.

Conclusion: You probably need to remove the ledger board and start over if you do not have Ice and Water shield between the ledger and the sheathing. Nails may be the wrong type. You need continuous flashing over the top. Installation of my ledger board was the single hardest piece of work on my deck, but it seems to have worked out, no leaks in five years. Best of luck.
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Old 04-24-2015, 10:27 AM   #7
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Thanks guys,

I am going to try and remove the ledger. I have all joists attached already so I may remove those as well.
This is a second story deck.
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Old 04-24-2015, 03:41 PM   #8
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Nico456, I mean this in the best way, but if I had inspected your house as part of due diligence and found no flashing, I would call that out, and ask for a copy of the approved permit, and help my client fortify his price negotiation for the purchase. You're better off taking it apart and doing it right, rather than run into me if you ever try to sell.
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Old 04-24-2015, 05:09 PM   #9
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Your all right. Any ideas on the best way to remove the ledger at this point?
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Old 04-25-2015, 08:38 PM   #10
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Old 04-25-2015, 08:44 PM   #11
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Buy a cats paw--and start pulling nails---you might be able to pry it out far enough to get a long saws all blade in there---

If that is pressure treated wood--be sure the fasteners are approved for that wood--
the new treated wood eats up aluminum and unprotected steel--
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