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Old 05-24-2009, 09:38 PM   #1
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Cutting into foundation wall to install entry door.

Home is a split-foyer.

Foundation wall section being considered for door insertion rises approx 3 feet above concrete slab.

Currently a window exist in the wall above the foundation wall section.

Planning on removing the window which will create the opening for the top section of the door to be installed.

Just need to remove the foundation wall section below and rough in for door installation.

There is currently 2 feet of earth on the external side of the wall. Was planning on excavating and installing three steps to allow for access to backyard

What do I use to cut into the wall?

How wide do I go?

Do I need to leave a lip or small amount at the bottom of the door to keep water from seeping into the house?

Thanks for the feedback.
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Old 05-24-2009, 10:25 PM   #2
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You would cut the opening large enough to install the door you bought. Some of your questions beg another one.
How much experience do you have with this DIY stuff?
Cutting an opening into concrete is not a job for someone with little or no experience with power tools. If this is new territory ,you might want to leave the concrete cutting to the pro's and then deal with the rest of the project.
You would also need to take into consideration the drainage issue at the stair bottom. A speedbump at the doorway is not a solution.
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Old 05-24-2009, 10:35 PM   #3
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You would also have to take into consideration the fact that the dirt is existing is for frost protection, if applicable in your region.
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Old 05-24-2009, 10:38 PM   #4
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Listen to Ron. Improperly used (and this is something a novice will almost always do), the blade of a concrete saw can explode and shatter into hundreds of pieces, each flying off in all directions like shrapnel. You can be blinded or maimed.
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Old 05-25-2009, 12:14 AM   #5
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Ron and the others are correct.

That is an 8" thick concrete wall there, plus re-bar in it. You need your 22" diamond tipped portable (on vertical tracks) saw, water cooled, for this.

Plus the 4' wide x 3' high x 8" thick = 8.04 x 150# per cubic foot = 1200 pounds of concrete you get to break up and get rid of. Don't forget your drain tile is right there under-foot, also.

Be safe, G
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Old 05-25-2009, 04:12 AM   #6
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probably no rebar so, if you're feeling ballsy, rent a demo saw & 14" blade,,, not near as much wet conc slurry when the job goes KABOOM ( not the billy means kaboom, either ),,, its doable for a diy'er who works as a const carpenter & has watch'd the process enough to feel comfortable,,, had guys who used 20" blades on stihl demo saws regularly - it must've been hell when they bought sports coats, tho - just imagine the tailoring costs
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Old 08-19-2009, 01:59 PM   #7
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Cutting into foundation wall to install entry door.

Thank you all for the responses. I will not be doing the cutting myself so no KABOOM! I have found a professional who can precisley cut the area out using a blade on a wall mounted track. Looking forward to seeing this.

The door will need a rough opening of 51" (36" door + 12" side lite + slop).

How wide do I need to cut the opening to allow for the 51" rough opening after being framed in?

How exactly do I frame the rough opening in? MA code for Roof, ceiling and
one center-bearing floor with a 50 psf snow load, and 28 ft building width states 2 2X8's with 2 jack studs will provide support for a 4-6 span (54").

Does this mean two jack studs need to be used on each side to support the 2 2X8 headers? If so, this brings the total width required of the raw opening to 57" which is 3" greater than the span allowed?

How exactly do I build the frame for the rough opening? Support the existing floor joist above with the 2 2X8 headers, attach the jack studs to the concrete foundation on both sides? If the foundation wall is 8" thick, is it better to use 2X4 or 2X6 jack stud? What do I do at the floor?

Thanks for your feedback
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Old 08-19-2009, 02:13 PM   #8
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just tell the operator what you need for a rough opening & he'll saw it,,, wallsawing isn't difficult but does take a few yrs to finally KNOW the trade,,, depends on what you'll use to frame - 1 1/5" is std plank thickness so add 1/4" to either side to allow for shims.

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