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Old 06-16-2009, 05:14 PM   #16
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No, that will create to much restriction and back pressure in the heating system.

I mentioned inspector because the beam/joist connection is not there. The 2x6's every 3-4' are not normal. Each joist should be toe-nailed to the supporting 2x10, and the rim joists should be toe-nailed every 12" as well. You should have full bearing under the 2x10, at least a 2x8, or whatever the Structural Engineer requires. All this should be nailed together sufficiently to resist earthquakes and normal direct and lateral loading. I seriously doubt what you have would suffice.

The builder should be informed of what his workers did (the 2x6 pieces) and given opportunity to fix same. Perhaps some Simpson strapping or ? as per Structural Engineer's directions, to positive tie the floor joists to the beam. I would want to see the S.E.'s written document as per fix, if a ? is added under the 2x10 flat. It is almost impossible to use nails only after the fact. This should be fixed before the ducting is run as to cut a big hole through both rims would weaken them without the full bearing you are missing. Be safe, G
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Old 06-16-2009, 06:17 PM   #17
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IMHO, its my thought that the rim joist was required for shipping and installation purposes. Now that its supported the whole distance by the glue/lam, a penetration for the duct work would be no problem.
If this were constructed on site, there would not be a rim joist in this position at all.
However, an inspector won't jeopardize himself by OKing without a signed drawing from an engineer.
I would think that the manufacturer would/should provide the engineering drawing!
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Old 06-17-2009, 08:36 AM   #18
 
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We have an inspector coming on Friday to look over everything. I will call the company and ask about an engineering drawing. That is a good idea.
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Old 06-18-2009, 09:27 AM   #19
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The hole through the rim looks like a big problem right now with the way the rim and joists are supported (or not supported).

It looks to me like the rim is functioning as a beam right now since it is only supported every 4 feet. A 2x8" board laying flat and supported only every 4 ft provides way, way too little load capacity. And see how the joint between two of the flat 2x8s is out about 24 inches from the short 2x6 blocks - that means very little went to essentially zero. So all that load is being carried by the rim that is supported every 4 feet. Now if there is a joint in the rim between those 4 foot supports (and there probably is somewhere) then you compound the problem.

Once the support is fixed so that it is continous and anchored down securely then the hole through the rim joist should be no problem.

The manufacturer/installer should be taking the lead on addressing this. Push them hard. I't should actually be a fairly easy fix of replacing the short blocks with a continous member and applying the correct connectors - but the manufacturer or some other engineer needs to spec it.
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Old 06-20-2009, 08:14 AM   #20
 
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The inspector came yesterday and said the beam and how it was installed is correct. He said that cutting the desired holes for ductwork is not a problem. The joist are only there for transporting the house.

Now for the best tools to cut the hole. I would like to cut as clean of hole as possible. I have read people mention a reciprocating saw but can a person get a nice round hole with one?
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Old 06-20-2009, 06:49 PM   #21
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I wouldn't try to cut a round hole! Cut a square hole! Its much easier.
Drill a 3/4" hole at each corner and cut straight down, across the grain.
If space allows, cut with the grain across the top and bottom.
If space is limited, you can chisel out the wood between the two vertical saw cuts.
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Old 06-22-2009, 09:11 AM   #22
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Build,
I'm just a DIYer but I'm convinced the Inspector is wrong. If the beam fully supported all the joists then I'd agree that the rim was only important for shipping. But there is nothing supporting some of those joists except for the rim (and a flat 2x which is nothing - and it even has unsupported butt joints in some places). At an absolute minimum if you are going to cut that hole please fill the gap between the beam and the floor joists by inserting a flat 2x between those short blocks so that the joists are fully supported by the beam.
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