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Old 12-01-2009, 02:38 PM   #1
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Cutting Backerboard accurately


I am doing a project that is using stained concrete backerboard as the finish. Therefore I need to have very accurate cuts on this material. I have a portably ryobi 10" table saw. would it be best for me to get a mason blade for this or just use my skill saw with a mason blade and clamp a straight board to the material as guide.
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Old 12-01-2009, 02:48 PM   #2
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I've used my circ saw with a dry diamond segmented blade and got good results on backer board. Take it outside and wear a respirator.
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Old 12-01-2009, 07:04 PM   #3
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Yep, I second that! It makes a very dusty mess which you don't want to breath. (Might want to make sure vehicles are out of the way too ... ask me how I know about that)
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Old 12-02-2009, 03:55 AM   #4
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aren't you going at this bass-ackwards ? just curious as we install the hardibacker FIRST then o'lay w/polymer-modified cements THEN acid-stain,,, that way we get NO JOINTS ! ! !

we'd never use anything BUT a diamond blade for scoring h-backer but you may have better luck,,, pro's use diamond blades, NOT carbide, if they want better results,,, we use 4" grinders & bevel-drive circle saws - both're mounted on wheels for accuracy & ease

realize you've already gotten some advice but doubt its from pro's - also sounds as if you've already decided on an action plan & just want reinforcement,,, if so, can't help there.
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Old 12-15-2009, 07:49 PM   #5
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If you are cutting backerboard day in and out then diamond is going to be more economical but for a single project tungsten carbide works fine. I even cut holes in concrete backerboard with TCT hole cutters or for very large holes a Hole Pro adjustable hole cutter with tungsten carbide blades. I can get 30 holes 8" in diameter with one set of the Hole Pro blades and the shield controls the dust. For straight cuts a carbide tipped blade works fine but the concrete dust is likely to damage a standard power saw. I like to rent a saw designed for cutting concrete from a local yard and I just pay for the blade.
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Old 12-16-2009, 11:16 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itsreallyconc View Post
aren't you going at this bass-ackwards ? just curious as we install the hardibacker FIRST then o'lay w/polymer-modified cements THEN acid-stain,,, that way we get NO JOINTS ! ! !

Not ass backwards this was an intentional design to try to get a very modern and different looking fireplace finish at a low cost , check out how one person did it at the link below http://livemodern.com/forums/materialsmethods/428599942 .

Since then we decided to go the expensive Tile route. so I'll be posting tiling questions soon instead. Thanks for the great information.

By the way how do you install backerboard with roofing nails or screws. I hear glueing it and using roofing nails are better.
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Old 12-16-2009, 12:38 PM   #7
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I really like the way that looks.

Hey Guys, could this technique be used for a backsplash in a kitchen?
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Old 12-16-2009, 12:47 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drtbk4ever View Post
I really like the way that looks.

Hey Guys, could this technique be used for a backsplash in a kitchen?

hey drtbk4ever: I had alot of conversations with the guy that did this he was an architect that did a similiar one with various square panels for a fireplace. Its very unconventional. the difficult thing is your cuts have to very accurate and you have to be ok with the rough edges and consider that part of a design. You also have to think about how your going to fasten it. The screws in the picture above were mainly for looks and to hold it temporarly for the construction glue to dry. I was planing on incoporating Stainless steel screws into mine as part of my design

The only issue I see with a backsplash is that this material is not completely waterproof so you'll need to give it a good sealing afterwards.

Its definately worth a try though the backboard is cheap and you can do it if you can find concrete stain samples.

I gave up because I couldn't fine many concrete stain samples locally only in gallons and didn't want to pay for a full gallon to test it out. You might also want to acid etch the backerboard to allow the stain to penetrate better and give it a better design.
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