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Old 11-07-2008, 12:44 AM   #1
 
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Cracked Split Woodjoist


Hey everyone,I were underneath my house the other day repairing a small leak on a galvanized elbow in the crawlspace and I noticed I have 2 woodjoist on the left side of the beam span that are seriously about to fail.The joist are in a separate bedrooms(one story).the house is about 40 something years old and already had sagging issues when I bought several years ago..I pretty much let well enough alone because I did not want to disturb the structure.Now,things have taken a spin and know its needs to be addressed.The sag is about 1 3/4 in the worst bedroom and 1/4 in the adjacent.The split is from across the bottom base of 2x8 joist almost
to the top.You can look thru the crack.I do not know what is even holding it in place,the way it look it should break anytime now.1 pier with blocks has sunken in that area under the beam and sloped downwards so I know the culprit and why the pressure is in this area.If I place the jack under the beam I pretty much know that if I lift it,the joist is going to snap into.I was thinking of sistering ahead then raise,but I know without it being level first or somewhat,an issue still remain.I also thought about nailing 1 or 2 (2x4's) under the joist about 10ft long with some nails or screws,and then place a 4x6 beam under it and try to level it as much as possible and then sister it in that area with lag bolts but do not know if the 2x4 beneath it would be substantial but I am thinking it would?
Someone recommended an Ellis Scew Jack with joist holder,situate where the crack is on leveled pads and raise it to level and then sister? I really do not have a clue guys the best way but I must act soon.What is the least damage if this joist breaks? I am sure it will cause some longterm problems if but when it does? I can fix it if I can get straightforward guided steps because I am pretty handy and I know to take precautions when working under a structure such as this.. Please Advise Guys..
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Old 11-07-2008, 06:19 AM   #2
 
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can you get a 3" angle iron piece to span where the break is and jack it up? Use wood between jack and metal. No metal to metal contact.
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Old 11-07-2008, 07:06 AM   #3
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Could you post a picture of the pier and surrounding joists and also the broken one. this way we can get a getter handle of your situation.
if the pier has sank and is leaning this is your first step. jack the girder up on both sides of the pier to where it needs to be. and at the same time raise the floor joist and then put some temporary posts to keep the joist and the girder at that plain.. before you remove the pier and install a new footing, first I would find out why that pier sank and correct the problem. it could of be from no footing, bad soil, or water run off.
when your working with getting everything up into position don,t use a level, use string lines. most of the house's are not level do to settling. I would sting a line across the entire length of the girder to see how bad it settled. then bring the girder up to that height. this way its in line with both ends of the foundation walls.
A picture will be useful here. Thanks BOB
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Old 11-07-2008, 05:33 PM   #4
 
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Hey,thanks guys.Here are some pictures underneath.There are some obstruction (bricks) right in the area where I will need to raise so I guess I will have to chisel it out and have some clearance. You can see where the cinders have sunk and I'm betting my botton dollar they belong on the brick pad footing next to it and is the grand delimma.Why on earth would someone want to resituate it directly on the ground? My other question is cribbing in the area where I will have to work because I do not want anything falling down.So I will use screw jacks and long 4x's spanned across as many joist for good support? thanks for help
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Old 11-07-2008, 08:19 PM   #5
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Was there a water problem in the crawl space, It seams as tho the block pier pads have been under mined by water.
That new pad that's there how deep is it?.
and as for that foundation with the stem walls appears as tho that it was a set of cement stairs leading to the main house, then had an addition added to it. Ill have to check on the floor joist. BOB
That floor joist looks as tho it was repaired when the floor was replaced above. that slice appears to be a saw cut.

Last edited by buletbob; 11-07-2008 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 11-07-2008, 09:43 PM   #6
 
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Bob,yes there was a plumbing problem and some water puddled under the space and most have dried.The dimensions of that pad is 4 inches thick and 24" in length.I wanted to bring some sand in to accelerate
the drying but it will probably just wic and be a waste of time.I did not know if I were going to level out things I had to do both sides of the spans simultaneously? I thought I could do room by room? Why do you think the sever may have been done with a saw,so this does not appear to be a weight or timber distressed crack? Thanks

Last edited by jay1pizza; 11-07-2008 at 09:46 PM.
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Old 11-07-2008, 10:51 PM   #7
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My guess is that someone intended to make a repair and planned to use that 4" pad for a footing.
It seems to me that the joist was cut to allow it to be moved up and then sistered with a 2X6 to keep it in place.
Once I had to cut a wall stud to get the bow out of it, then I sistered another stud against it, as reinforcement.
It seems to me that this is a similar situation.
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Old 11-08-2008, 06:16 AM   #8
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my thoughts exactly. the beam could of been cut to get the crown out of it. then fastened to the adjoining joist.
As for the pad i would bring in some soil and put it around the outside edges of that pad. it should of been dug into the ground at least one foot.BOB

Last edited by buletbob; 11-08-2008 at 06:19 AM.
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