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Old 04-20-2015, 05:42 AM   #1
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building a deck - questions


I am building a deck that will bear on a ledger on one side and footings on the other. I had a couple of questions.

I am following the prescriptive residential wood deck construction guide based on the 2012 IRC. I didn't see anything in there about notching the ledger, or separating the ledger into segments as being prohibited. Is this actually an accepted practice? I ask because the wire from the electric meter enters the house right in the path of where I would place the ledger and I could make my deck a few feet longer by modifying the ledger to accommodate the wire. Then there's the question of its worth doing this for the amount of space I gain, but that's something else I'll need to think about.

The deck is built over a concrete retaining wall. I'd like to place the footings for the other side of the deck as close as possible to the interior side of the wall. Is there a minimum distance I need to keep from the wall when digging the holes for the footings?
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Old 04-20-2015, 08:07 AM   #2
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Can you post a picture of where the decks going to be? May clear somethings up.
Single story deck?
Why the ledger against the house, If I'm understanding you correctly, and not a free standing deck?
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Old 04-20-2015, 08:46 AM   #3
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If you leave enough meat on the ledger after cutting out a notch, and place extra bolts (or lag screws), then it's fine. The ledger can be made with pieces of lumber. Bolt could be just above the notch as well and meat above the notch can be reinforced with 2x4 or such. You could hit the bolt later when decking.
I think you're talking about the out-lying piers and the retaining wall? Individual piers are not likely to disturb the base material (or a footing) for the wall, but it is probably a good idea to place the piers at least 12 inches away from the wall. You don't want to hit a gravel base and have the gravel spill out or disturb the earth retaining the base.
If you're bridging the house to the retaining wall, you will lose ground level means of travel. That is, if moving anything heavy or such, you will have to take it up the steps and down the steps. Also you may want to ask the town inspector if you need railing that extends along the wall?
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Old 04-20-2015, 09:02 AM   #4
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Something to think about....
Be aware of the location of your deadmen..
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Old 04-20-2015, 03:59 PM   #5
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I'm currently doing the same project, just curious? Some deck builders recommend putting deck flashing on top of the joists to prevent water from wicking up under the deck boards, if I use the deck flashing how can I glue the deck boards to the joists? Did we ever get a "definite" answer about whether full threaded screws are better than regular 1/2 threaded screws??

Sorry to hijack just looking for a couple of quick answers
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Old 04-20-2015, 07:25 PM   #6
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I'll try to post a picture tomorrow...

This will be a single story deck. I could do a free-standing deck, but code says that any footing within 5' of the foundation has to bear at the same elevation as the foundation. So that means 8' holes instead of 4', and more concrete to pour. So that's why I decided on a ledger deck.

There is an existing wrought iron fence that runs along the top of the retaining wall, but it is too short to act as railings. So, the deck itself is going to have its own railings around the perimeter.

Thanks for the info about notching/segmenting the ledger. I'll keep that in mind as I decide how big to make the deck.

The code states a shank length (non-threaded portion) of 1.5" for lag screws.
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Old 04-21-2015, 12:44 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2omichael View Post
I'm currently doing the same project, just curious? Some deck builders recommend putting deck flashing on top of the joists to prevent water from wicking up under the deck boards, if I use the deck flashing how can I glue the deck boards to the joists? Did we ever get a "definite" answer about whether full threaded screws are better than regular 1/2 threaded screws??

Sorry to hijack just looking for a couple of quick answers

Why are you gluing the boards? The screw threads should not go into the top board or it will not draw tight to the bottom board without stripping the hole below; Fig. 7/16; https://books.google.com/books?id=Lo...better&f=false
The only exception are those screws designed with less/thinner threads in the top board part, see left-hand column here for PT wood; http://www.strongtie.com/products/fa...ce=fastenernav


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Old 04-21-2015, 08:35 PM   #8
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Flashing on t of the beams will do nada. Never heard of gluing deck boards to the joists. Screws with no other ads at the top will draw the boards together, screws fully threaded may....or may not. Ron
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Old 04-21-2015, 08:57 PM   #9
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building a deck - questions-image-2871646252.jpg

I got the flashing idea from a thread started by a fella who builds decks, he said it made a difference, can't say I have used it so I don't know how well it works?
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Old 04-22-2015, 07:48 PM   #10
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Grace I think makes vicor and advertises it as good for the top of deck joists. Of course, the more vicor grace sells the better it is....for Grace. The black stuff on those joists looks nice..but what does it do? Holds water so that the deck boards can sit in it?

If you want it, do it. But probably wasting $$. Ron
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Old 04-22-2015, 11:05 PM   #11
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I think the flashing is supposed to prevent water from wicking up under the boards? I was more curious about if it actually worked, or was necessary? Heck, I'm in my late 40's, so, if it lasts 20+ years without the flashing it will probably be someone else's problem when it comes time to replace it anyway, lol (-:
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Old 04-23-2015, 11:22 PM   #12
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The bituminous sticky flashing (or a good sealant/caulking bead at top only) is fine for doubled joists, where water will sit and mold/rot between them, as it self seals any fastener holes, IMO. Not at all for water wicking, that is why you you waterproof treat all boards before installation. Unless you special ordered "waterproofed pressure treated" wood; http://bct.eco.umass.edu/publication...ns-about-wood/

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Old 04-25-2015, 08:11 PM   #13
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OMG waterproof PT exists!??

flashing the top of 2x seems like a waste. plenty of PT decks have lasted decades without it. now, two 2x' squished together to form a beam.. ya, good idea to flash them. Grace makes vicor, but GOOD LUCK finding it! at least in canada.. not avialable anywhere. but all the big box stores and also roofing companies sell waterproof flashing that they use around window openings on houses. they 4" wide or 6" wide. one brand name i used is "blue skin".
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Last edited by Knucklez; 04-25-2015 at 08:14 PM.
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Old 04-26-2015, 04:58 PM   #14
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I tore down the deck yesterday. Here are a few pictures. The old deck was built right over the original concrete steps and landing. I was thinking that as long as I could fit a 2x8 in between the concrete block and the door threshold, I wouldn't mess too much with the original landing.

The shingles and fascia board that had been behind the previous deck's rim board were really rotted out. At least they will be easy to remove to get at the house's rim board.
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Old 05-03-2015, 02:22 PM   #15
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My next step is to attach the ledger board.

My home was built in the 40s and it looks like it doesn't have a band joist typical in more modern homes. it looks like they laid two 4x4 beams on top of each other, for a total height of 7". So I think I can still attach a 2 x 8 ledger with no problem.

Seems like everyone has their own method of flashing a ledger. Once the sheathing is exposed I was thinking of:

1. adding another layer of house wrap behind the ledger
2. layer the top of the ledger with the vycor self adhering flashing
3. once the joists are installed, continue the vycor flashing down the face of the ledger and beyond the joist hangers.

Does this sound reasonable? Or is galvanized ledger flashing a better option, assuming I don't let it make direct contact with the PT wood?
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