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Old 11-16-2019, 07:50 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeniorSitizen View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by farmerjohn1324 View Post
Is there a particular reason to use box nails instead of screws when making this guide?
Not to my knowledge. Personally I'd use screws in case I wanted to modify it, which seems to happen frequently with my projects.

And I haven't a clue why he thinks it needs so many fasteners.
I'm trying to make this and I realize that there's about a one-in-a-million chance that these one by fours I got from Home Depot are perfectly straight. Is there something else I could use? Maybe something out of metal that I know will be perfectly straight?
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Old 11-16-2019, 08:09 PM   #17
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Re: Best way to support table saw from back and side?


[QUOTE=SeniorSitizen;5973687]

When building the guide choose a factory edge for the portable saw shoe to follow.

/QUOTE]
*************************************************

I should have said factory edge of sheet material. Use the least expensive available then some day when you win the lottery you can up-grade.
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Last edited by SeniorSitizen; 11-16-2019 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 11-16-2019, 09:58 PM   #18
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Re: Best way to support table saw from back and side?


You can buy an aluminum clamp on saw guide pretty inexpensively. The clamp mechanism is built right into the guide, something like this. There are many different brands, the one I have is probably 25 years old, can't even tell you what brand it is, but it works great, think mine's even US made. I haven't used it much since I bought a track-saw but I did cut a door with it just the other day. It was hanging right there on the wall while my track-saw was at another property a few blocks away.
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Old 11-16-2019, 10:02 PM   #19
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You can buy an aluminum clamp on saw guide pretty inexpensively. The clamp mechanism is built right into the guide, something like this. There are many different brands, the one I have is probably 25 years old, can't even tell you what brand it is, but it works great, think mine's even US made. I haven't used it much since I bought a track-saw but I did cut a door with it just the other day. It was hanging right there on the wall while my track-saw was at another property a few blocks away.
Ok. That won't help me for ripping the long side of the door, though.

Do I still have to worry about splinters? Do I need tape?
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Old 11-17-2019, 01:39 AM   #20
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[QUOTE=SeniorSitizen;5982403]
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeniorSitizen View Post

When building the guide choose a factory edge for the portable saw shoe to follow.

/QUOTE]
*************************************************

I should have said factory edge of sheet material.
Would the other edge of the OSB work?
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Old 11-17-2019, 05:53 AM   #21
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Re: Best way to support table saw from back and side?


You may be using wrong material. OSB looks like a plywood but the factory edge or the cut edge is not as good as the plywood. Nor its bending once in a strip. Try it.
The 1x4 should be sighted down its edge. See the videos on how to check lumber for the straight and flat. It should move. Screw or clamp one end. Then put a string against it and screw while adjusting. Use a fish line if you have to. You don't want to use furry cotton line or such.
You can draw acceptable straight line with a 4' level too. Overlap the level about 20" and check your work. Plywood (osb as well) should have a straight edge. Plan to cut about 8" wide strip and keep it as a general purpose straight edge. Wood materials can warp and such, though, so it is better to get a aluminum straight edge little longer than 8'. I have harbor freight edge that came in 2 pieces. It's only about 2.5" wide but I babied it and it still works well. One reason I reach for it is that it is light. I also have wide track that has its own clamp. It's heavy, not handy to store and clamp eventually stopped working.
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Old 11-17-2019, 07:07 AM   #22
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Re: Best way to support table saw from back and side?


I have one of these https://www.homedepot.com/p/Johnson-...4900/100188970 which works quite well. I also had a donated piece of 8' steel extrusion that requires no assembly and is perfectly straight.
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Old 11-17-2019, 11:04 AM   #23
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Re: Best way to support table saw from back and side?


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Originally Posted by farmerjohn1324 View Post
Ok. That won't help me for ripping the long side of the door, though.

Do I still have to worry about splinters? Do I need tape?

Like I said, lots of brands but also lots of lengths. Other types of commercially available cutting guides too, like the type shown by other posters that use C clamps.

Splintering depends on the type of material the door is made of. If the door is MDF then splintering will probably be minimal, cutting wood with the grain it will also be pretty minimal. Cutting cross grain it can be a problem.

When cutting veneer doors I'll usually score the cut with a razor knife first, then keep the saw blade to the waste side of the score line, any tear out that happens will stop at the knife cut.

Hope your cuts are pretty small. You can't take very much off or the panel doors will look offset. With the pre drilled lockset you can't really trim the latch side to match.
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Old 11-17-2019, 11:21 AM   #24
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Re: Best way to support table saw from back and side?


For crosscutting I use a guide I bought from Harbor Freight. It was less than $25 for the 50-inch model.



For long cuts you could use a straight piece of 1x4 or build something like this;



The instructions are in this PM article for building a simple circular saw guide.
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Old 11-17-2019, 12:17 PM   #25
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Re: Best way to support table saw from back and side?


[quote=farmerjohn1324;5982613]
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeniorSitizen View Post

Would the other edge of the OSB work?

Yes, Snap a chalk line about 8-12'' over from your straightest OSB edge
and free hand cut it with your circular saw. Now you can take the smaller pc with it's straight factory edge and clamp it to anything as a guide.
Retail cost - 1/4 of a sheet of OSB, about $2.50


Save it if you can, because you will need it again. But no big loss if don't.
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Old 11-17-2019, 12:28 PM   #26
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Re: Best way to support table saw from back and side?


Originally Posted by SeniorSitizen

Would the other edge of the OSB work?

************************************************** *
Not my quote.
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Old 11-17-2019, 04:47 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Drachenfire View Post
For crosscutting I use a guide I bought from Harbor Freight. It was less than $25 for the 50-inch model.



For long cuts you could use a straight piece of 1x4 or build something like this;



The instructions are in this PM article for building a simple circular saw guide.
I'm having trouble clamping the saw guide because of the sag in the T1-11.

Have you encountered this?
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Old 11-17-2019, 04:57 PM   #28
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[QUOTE=Yodaman;5982971]
Quote:
Originally Posted by farmerjohn1324 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeniorSitizen View Post

Would the other edge of the OSB work?

Yes, Snap a chalk line about 8-12'' over from your straightest OSB edge
and free hand cut it with your circular saw. Now you can take the smaller pc with it's straight factory edge and clamp it to anything as a guide.
Retail cost - 1/4 of a sheet of OSB, about $2.50


Save it if you can, because you will need it again. But no big loss if don't.
I bought a 8' piece of aluminum. I figured it would hold up better over time.
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Old 11-17-2019, 05:07 PM   #29
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Re: Best way to support table saw from back and side?


Quote:
Originally Posted by farmerjohn1324 View Post
I'm having trouble clamping the saw guide because of the sag in the T1-11.

Have you encountered this?
I have not. However, it should be noted that when I cut sheet goods, I always support the plywood on a couple of 2x4s laid out across the saw horses. This insures that the plywood is well supported therefore avoiding potential blade binding.
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Old 11-17-2019, 05:18 PM   #30
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by farmerjohn1324 View Post
I'm having trouble clamping the saw guide because of the sag in the T1-11.

Have you encountered this?
I have not. However, it should be noted that when I cut sheet goods, I always support the plywood on a couple of 2x4s laid out across the saw horses. This insures that the plywood is well supported therefore avoiding potential blade binding.
Ok. I remember from a previous post that those 2x4s should be attached to 2x4s that are screwed to each sawhorse. My old saw horses had screw holes in the top. These do not. Should I go buy better saw horses so I can secure all the 2x4s correctly?
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