Wiring Generator To A Dedicated Panel? - Electrical - DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum
Advertisement


Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Electrical

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Display Modes
Old 11-10-2011, 09:36 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Wiring generator to a dedicated panel?


Hi - I have a set-up I was thinking of implementing to use my portable generator for back-up power to 4 devices in my house. I was wondering if I could use a 4 breaker cutler hammer load center that I already have as a stand-alone, dedicated load center for the generator only. It is an old rambling England Farmhouse, and is configured so that I have a driveway up one whole side, and State roads on two of the others, so the only place to safely locate the generator is out back.

My 6500w generator has the 4 prong 240v 30a outlet on it, which I would like to run a 10/4 50 ft cord to the house at an inlet box. The generator would be grounded at it's parked location with a 6 foot driven rod

From there, I would have a 30' length from inlet box, of 6/4, in the basement(the ground wire only being 10 gauge) which I would like to feed the 4 devices with through 4 dedicated 20a breakers in the Cutler Hammer 100A load center. They are: Furnace, well pump, sump pump, and refrigerator. I have checked all the draws, and the generator is sized correctly.

All devices are 115v so my thought was to add a box with an outlet in the current circuit for each device(house panel), and add a male plug to the power lead on each device to plug into it for normal operation. In the case of an emergency, I could then unplug the device from the main service, and then run an extension cord across the basement to 4 new outlets served by the dedicated cutler hammer panel, which in turn is powered by the generator. I could also eliminate the extension cord completely by running 12/2 over to another single outlet in the vicinity of the male plug for the device.

The way I see it is, there is no way unless someone in the future created an illegal male/male extension cord, that any back feeding could take place on this system. The main service, and the new generator box would always be physically isolated from each other. The appliances would be manually plugged into either main service, or generator, but never both. Each device would be protected by it's own 20 amp breaker, and I woud be able to balance the loads by adjusting which device plugged into the which new outlet.

I'm just kicking this around in my head, as I already have everything I need to do this except the extension cord and inlet box.

Any comments/suggestions, code issues I would have to address would be greatly appreciated. I realize it seems like overkill, but I'm trying to avoid multiple extension cords, etc. while still being safe.

Thanks,
Don
Djohnson6070 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-11-2011, 05:28 AM   #2
Licensed Electrical Cont.
 
Speedy Petey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: NY State
Posts: 7,828
Rewards Points: 2,006
Default


A 4-space load center is about a $20 item.

You'd be MUCH better off ging with a small generator ready load center with the interlock device already installed. This way you don't need any other kind of interlock or transfer switch.
Speedy Petey is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-11-2011, 06:31 AM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Nashua, NH, USA
Posts: 8,850
Rewards Points: 3,306
Default


The selected circuits (refrigerator, furnace, etc.) must be hard wired into either the independent Cutler Hammer load center box or into the main panel. If wired into the independent box then you need just one feed (probably a #6 for futureproofing) between the top of the independent box and a breaker pair in the main panel with a neutral switching transfer switch in between. The generator inlet on the outside of the house is connected to the transfer switch.

Or this #6 feed from the independent load center box can end in a single male plug that would be manually connected to either a (stove or dryer type) receptacle hung off a double breaker in the main panel or to a similar (female) receptacle connected just to (with home run to) the (male) inlet on the outside of the house for the generator.
__________________
Stop some of your bank autopayments so you can set priorities for manual monthly payments out of your coronavirus stimulus check.

Last edited by AllanJ; 11-11-2011 at 06:59 AM.
AllanJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 11-11-2011, 04:27 PM   #4
Newbie
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 2
Rewards Points: 10
Default


So the issue appears to be that the furnace and well pump MUST be hardwired?

Is this a code issue?

The sump and fridge already are already just plug-in devices.

Am I correct in assuming then, that in order to use the 30a 240v outlet on the generator than one must use some type of transfer switch, or interlock set-up connected to main house service?

Thanks
Djohnson6070 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2011, 09:38 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Nashua, NH, USA
Posts: 8,850
Rewards Points: 3,306
Default


You can unplug the refrigerator's own cord from the wall receptacle and use an extension cord from there down to (or out to) the generator.

If you plug into the 30 amp twist lock receptacle on your generator, then there must be a breaker of no more than 20 amps between there and things (lights, appliances) you want to connect. This requirement is satisfied using a subpanel (either portable or mounted on a wall) with individual 15 and 20 amp breakers whose power feed plugs into the 30 amp twist lock receptacle.

No transfer switch is needed so long as any wire or subpanel connected to the generator is not at the same time connected to the main panel. So no transfer switch would be needed if you unplugged the refrigerator from the wall receptacle and plugged it into an extension cord which in turn was plugged into a receptacle on a subpanel whose only feed was at that moment plugged into the generator.
__________________
Stop some of your bank autopayments so you can set priorities for manual monthly payments out of your coronavirus stimulus check.

Last edited by AllanJ; 11-11-2011 at 09:47 PM.
AllanJ is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-11-2011, 10:35 PM   #6
Member
 
Missouri Bound's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Almost Arkansas
Posts: 3,425
Rewards Points: 3,324
Default


What you propose is possible, and as long as the new circuits you run are 100% independant of your power company you should be alright. That being said, a small 6 circuit generator panel would be a better choice since no rewiring would be necessary. And that would take care of the equipment that must be hard wired. It's simpler, it's 100% legal and safe.
Missouri Bound is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Wiring from panel Rick N. Electrical 6 07-10-2013 04:25 PM
Inverter wiring to panel speedymonk Electrical 26 10-18-2011 07:42 PM
Sub panel wiring Djennis20 Electrical 8 09-30-2011 10:40 AM
Sub panel wiring & grounding kwcamaro Electrical 1 03-06-2010 07:58 AM
Wiring a sub panel? motorcity11 Electrical 8 10-23-2008 02:02 PM




Top of Page | View New Posts