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Old 01-05-2010, 02:18 PM   #16
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Since it's a gable end of a single story house, the most the header can be holding up is the ceiling, and that's only if the rafters run perpendicular to the joists.

The guys who framed my addition used 2x12 headers for everything. They just made one up and cut it into the necessary pieces. There's even a 2x12 header over a kitchen pass-through that's under a truss.

Also, something no one has mentioned: studs are 3.5"; 2x12's are 1.5"; there's a 1/2 inch of plywood sandwiched between the 2x12's to make them the correct thickness.

But what's the plan? Go into the attic and drill down, hoping that your bit is perfectly vertical? Seems kind of chancy. Then you're going to find the hole from inside the house to drill in to meet up with it -- how? Don't hit a nail either.

You don't need an auger bit though -- a spade bit will do just fine.
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:20 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYGST View Post
add that distance to the drywall, then add 0.5 drywall thickness, then add 1.5" that is where I should start the drill?
Just find the top plate and drill in the middle.

But I'd think long and hard about it before I did it.
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:50 PM   #18
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I am going to have 2 people with walkie talkie and will be using small nails poking through to carefully plan where to drill.

Isn't the top plate 3.5" also (2x4 sideways). The ceiling is nailed to the top plate from the bottom I think.. so I am not sure how there was space.

Just measured the visible distance from inside the room that strip is 14.25" high from ceiling to window. I am going about half way down plus the top plates

Last edited by DIYGST; 01-05-2010 at 03:08 PM.
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Old 01-05-2010, 03:47 PM   #19
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Isn't the top plate 3.5" also (2x4 sideways). The ceiling is nailed to the top plate from the bottom I think..
The top plate lines up with the studs -- the center of the top plate should be the center of the wall cavity, unless something is dreadfully wrong. Besides, the drywall butts up to the top plate -- you can't nail your ceiling to it because the bottom of the top plate is lower than the bottom of the ceiling (by 1.5", or 3" for a load bearing wall).

They put in more wood to nail the ceiling to if necessary (and refer to it as "dead wood"), but you probably have a joist or a truss at the edge.
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Old 01-05-2010, 03:58 PM   #20
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I refered to an auger bit because I needed a long bit anyway. 17-18" is what I have been seeing at the stores. Mine are auger design about 6", not sure if an extension would work but I don't have one of those.

Spade bits run hot for me and the auger seems to extract the wood chips better. It's not a big deal which to use is it? Do you think an extension or spade bit has more ability and room to make small "steering".

So top plate middle.. try to drill straightl, got it. I am going to line up carefully along the window to make sure it meets up. What I have been seeing must have been the dead wood.

We'll also mark the bit to make sure do not overshoot.
If using Auger style do you recommend that I don't stop as it may provide a chance for arm twist upon restarting.

Last edited by DIYGST; 01-05-2010 at 04:10 PM.
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Old 01-05-2010, 04:35 PM   #21
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I've used auger bits to go through oak beams, starting and stopping as necessary without difficulty. The auger might be more likely to drill straight.

I still don't like the whole idea.
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:07 PM   #22
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To clarify, from the wall I am simply drilling a small circle for the 1/2" knock out on the back of the pancake box. I am not boring out a 4" circle for a full size electrical box.

Do you think the drilling done in this amount of lumber is more unstable than the holes on the verticle studs and jack studs on load bearing walls in the existing wiring.

Thanks for your information I have to give it some thought also will be asking a person who does this drilling for alarm install to see what he thinks.
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Old 01-05-2010, 05:19 PM   #23
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Quote:
To clarify, from the wall I am simply drilling a small circle for the 1/2" knock out on the back of the pancake box. I am not boring out a 4" circle for a full size electrical box.
I am not familiar with potential code issues, but, on the surface, this sounds similar to small holes through floor joists. Perhaps you can do this safely. With floor joists, I understand there are good and bad places in which to drill holes. The vertical center of the header is the lowest stress area and would, in my mind, be the safest. Make sure you stay away from the top and bottom third of the header. I would check with local code officials, just to be sure.
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Old 01-09-2010, 02:02 PM   #24
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Finished the job, easy with 2 people. It was a solid 4x8 above the window.
However when up there I encountered the deadwood instead of the top plate, so picking the center of that and drilling down would have been bad. Good thing we poked holes to find out the location.
5/8" drill bit down 10" depth, and then 1" drill bit 1.75" depth into the wall to clear the knock out and NM clamp. Pancake box sits flush with the dry wall.

Also talked to Alarm installer, they use a 3/8" bit and drill up from the top of window frame for their magnetic switch.

Here is a picture. it can be done I don't think my house will come crumbling down anytime soon. But really have to thank you guys to help me plan this out carefully.


Last edited by DIYGST; 01-09-2010 at 02:07 PM.
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