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Old 01-03-2010, 07:12 PM   #1
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wall box above window


I am trying to install my wall scones in the 15" area strip above a window. I am having a hard time.
I cut the drywall but there is wood behind it, I am not sure it is plywood or a sideway stud. Seems to be all around the length above the window.

Now I have the idea to use a shallow blue box (1.25") and a custom wood flange hallowed out to leave the desired clearance, and wire mold to run the short length of NM without dealing with the wall. is the blue box in a wood flange a problem?
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Old 01-03-2010, 07:57 PM   #2
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You probably have 2x12 header - making it solid wood from the top of the window to the top plate. How wide is the window? An option may be to reframe with smaller header and cripple studs to provide space for adding the lights.
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Last edited by vsheetz; 01-03-2010 at 08:00 PM.
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Old 01-03-2010, 08:07 PM   #3
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The wife do not like the wood flange idea.

I bought one of these.. if I am able to embed this in the wall flush do you think I can get the wire through the solid wood? It's just a 2x12 put on vertically but there is still space behind it right?

if not I am going to cut a channel in the drywall for the wire and put wire mold over it.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:43 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYGST View Post
The wife do not like the wood flange idea.

I bought one of these.. if I am able to embed this in the wall flush do you think I can get the wire through the solid wood? It's just a 2x12 put on vertically but there is still space behind it right?

if not I am going to cut a channel in the drywall for the wire and put wire mold over it.
No, it would be a doubled 2x12 - two pieces sandwiched together.
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Old 01-03-2010, 09:49 PM   #5
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OK I am going to get this box tomorrow and that is what I am going to use.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...4-223-B708-SHK

Any good idea how to get the wire into the box. As I mentioned I am going to just wiremold the NM coming down and into the back of the box above.
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Old 01-04-2010, 12:00 PM   #6
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bump to see any other ideas..
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Old 01-04-2010, 01:01 PM   #7
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Instead of using products that aren't intended for your application, why not use surface wiring?
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Old 01-04-2010, 07:06 PM   #8
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OK after research, I am going to do it the most correct way, no wiremold or other stuff.
I will drill a hole down the header and then one sideways to bring the 14/2 NM slim pull wire.
Then use a thin metal ceiling box is about the thickness of the drywall. to mount the fixture.

I am also going to be using a 1/2" dewalt corded drill with side handles. The estimated wood thickness is 10" max according to my calculations.

I am looking for a good auger bit about 1/2" range. Will this one work?
What does hallow center and solid center mean?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...0BX&lpage=none
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Old 01-05-2010, 01:11 PM   #9
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The heavy timber above the window indicates that this is a load-bearing wall. This beam supports the weight of any floor and roof above it. I would be very hesitant to cut into this without knowing the structural implications. You run the risk of compromising the strength of the header and damaging the structure of you house.
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Old 01-05-2010, 01:29 PM   #10
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Yes, it is an exterior load bearing wall. I assume all exterior walls are load bearing?

The header's job I found the definition: Header: A horizontal framing member that transfers the load above a window
or door opening to the sides of the opening. Also called a lintel.

I thought the job is that so the load won't cave in above the window and make the window not able to open and shut easily. I think the alarm company had to do the same drilling to add the window magnetic switch for the alarm.

I am not doing this yet, still looking for advice. Is a 5/8" hole in these lumber really a problem.
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Old 01-05-2010, 01:44 PM   #11
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The lumber is 1.5" thick, you are almost cutting the width of 1 board in 1/2 by drilling
That would create a weak point at the hole'
And you are in CA - land of the earthquakes....stricter building codes
1 story house, 2 story ?
Is this on the gable end of the house ?
How wide is the window opening ?

In many cases builders use a 2x12 when smaller wood can be used
So its possible the header is oversized
There is usually a filler piece in the middle between the 2x's made out of 1/2 plywood
Putting the hole in the filler piece would better if possible



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Old 01-05-2010, 01:54 PM   #12
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It is 1 story house.
Is it the gable end assuming if you are asking if that is at end of roof. It is not
(is this a good thing?)

EDIT: I am not clear so my window is the same location as this picture




Window is 5' wide.
I have two fixtures to install about 10" offset inwards from window corners.

Is it possible there is only ONE 2x12 on vertical and hollow behind it?
I would like to offset enough so I am drilling half of the drill bit on each 2x12 so I only take off approx 5/16s off each board, but that will require some careful calculation.

What about drilling from attic about 3.5" down and see where that filler is if any?

Last edited by DIYGST; 01-05-2010 at 02:00 PM.
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:00 PM   #13
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This is the gable end of a house
If the window is located under the gable end that is better as it carries less weight

But 5' is a long distance to span
About zero chance there is only a single 2x12, just not the way they are built





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Old 01-05-2010, 02:05 PM   #14
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It is the gable end then, edited my post. Thanks

When I knock on the wall it sounds very different between the horizontal piece and the vertical piece, the hortinzontal above and below the area sound alot more solid.
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Old 01-05-2010, 02:11 PM   #15
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So basically. I should find where the ceiling attach from attic, poke a nail through the ceiling drywall that is visible by the header there.

add that distance to the drywall, then add 0.5 drywall thickness, then add 1.5" that is where I should start the drill?
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