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Old 02-03-2010, 11:52 PM   #31
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the only real difference in how I would do it is, I do not like multiple wires under a common terminal. It means I disconnect 2 things even if I want to work on only 1 of them.

I would include terminal blocks in a junction box somewhere that would allow me to have only one wire to any given termination.

I do not like the jumper used to bring power to the controlled contact (that is the lower terminal block on the t-stat). I prefer to keep general power, control, and controlled circuits separated even if they are fed from a common source.

just me being me. There is nothing really wrong with the way they show it to be wired, just not how I typically build things.
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Old 02-03-2010, 11:55 PM   #32
 
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thats a really good idea. a little more work, but a cleaner safer aproach. i might do that in the long run. so the way i have it should be good then? i just dont have 50 bucks to buy a new tstat right now. i like to be extra sure.
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:13 AM   #33
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what I can see looks just fine. It's where the other ends of the wires go that I cannot comment on.
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Old 02-04-2010, 12:18 AM   #34
 
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i know for sure i got it hooked up correctly to the disconnect. they are not going anywhere past the tstat. the coil will be here tomorrow. ill hook it up then.

am I correct that the tstat will not turn on untill everything else is hooked up yet? if i flip the power on now nothing will happen untill the coil and heater is wired up. needs the coil to complete the circut?

i just want to see if it works and push the buttons!! lol

Last edited by 3500lt; 02-04-2010 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 02-04-2010, 10:28 AM   #35
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the t-stat should be working just as it is.


if you have a volt meter, you can check by measuring voltage at the N/O terminal on the lower terminal block to the "com" on the upper block. If there is no voltage, the contact is open. If the contact is closed (calling for heat) you should read 240 volts.

If the contact is open, setting the thermostat to a higher temp (raising the temp of the water), the contact should close.


you do have a thermocouple on the thermostat, yes? That is what the t-stat uses to measure the temp of the water (or whatever).

so, if you set the t-stat to a temp lower than ambient temp for the thermocouple, the contact should remain open. If you then set the t-stat to a temp higher than the ambient temp around the thermocouple, the contact should close.

I have not taken the time to read about the t-stat. Some have time delays built into them so they are not triggered by a momentary fluctuation of temp at the thermocouple. There could be other settings in the t-stat (time settings perhaps) that would affect the operation as well.
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:03 PM   #36
 
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Well i have power to the Tstat and i took nap`s advice about running the wires to a junction box instead of doubling them up under the same terminal. I have the wires from N/O and "COM" running into a second junction box where i will mount the contactor i recieved today, so it will not be exposed. I drew up a diagram in reference to my contactor.

Now you said to run one wire from the N/O terminal to the coil( C1 in the picture) then run one leg of power to "A1" and the other to "A2"

what about the onther terminal on the coil (c2)?

btw. i only have one leg of power comming down thats attatched to the "com" terminal in the tstat.
the other leg of power is going from my disconnect to the 240 terminal in the tstat. I just remembered i should have brought that leg of power down with the other one. ill fix it

Last edited by 3500lt; 02-04-2010 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:08 PM   #37
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the wire from N/O goes to C1 and the other power leg (L2) goes to C2

A1/A2 and B1/B2 are the contact through your contactor/relay

to stay with the original diagram, L1 connects to A1 and L2 connects to B1

A2 connects to one end of your heating element and B2 connects to the other end of the heating element.
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:12 PM   #38
 
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sweet. thanks for the quck reply. im good to go now. its goona be warm in my garage finally!! thank you Nap
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Old 02-04-2010, 08:32 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3500lt View Post
sweet. thanks for the quck reply. im good to go now. its goona be warm in my garage finally!! thank you Nap
let me know if everything works once you get it hooked up.

Oh, and was this a water heater?

NEVER power a water heater uunless it is full of water
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Old 02-05-2010, 01:28 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nap View Post
let me know if everything works once you get it hooked up.

Oh, and was this a water heater?

NEVER power a water heater uunless it is full of water
I'll second the (e)motion! As I posted the other day, that I learned that lesson the hard way. But, luckily, in my case, the "Bark" was more than the "Bite" . Where the only actual damage was to the 2-pole, 30Amp. Toggle switch.!
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