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Old 08-04-2010, 10:01 PM   #16
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Step one, Move 3 wire from switch 2 into switch 1 (may have to pull a new wire (0r pull a new 2wire from panel to switch 2 and get rid of the 2 wire coming into switch 1) You want the power feed 14/2, 3 way travellers 14/3, and the 3wire to the first plug all in the same box.

Step 2. Follow the diagram above. Al the text is in place where each item is listed. Black from panel, black to first plug are pigtailed to common on switch one. The white from panel is marretted to the white going to first plug.

Step 3. Red and black are on the traveller screws on switch 1 and 2. the white between the switches with not be netural, but will become a hot, mark black marker over both ends of wire at each switch as not to confuse

Step 4. In switch 2, the white now colored black is going on the common.

Step 5. The white now colored black will be marretted to the red wire going to the first plug.

Step 6. Break the tabs and put red on the top or bottom depending on if you want the top or bottom switched. If you want the whole plug switched then dont break tab. and then marrett the black coming from switch 1 to the black going to plug 2 and then again from plug 2 to the third which will screw on like normal, making the 2 plugs by bed switched completely.
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Old 08-05-2010, 08:48 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by brric View Post
As I understand your configuration you cannot switch half the recep and have half the recep constantly hot. You could switch the whole recep with your configuration.

White power wire splices to the white of the three wire at switch one and splices to the two three wires at switch two and connects to the recep. Black power wire at switch one connects to the common at switch one, black and red from three wire connect to the other two terminals at switch one. Black and red from three wire from switch one connect to the two terminals of second switch. Black or red from three wire to recep connect to the common on switch two. This leaves you with one unused wire.
I agree with the above ,and yes you need additional wiring.Heres another thought would it be easier to put a new circuit in for the unswitched receptacles?


Last edited by delta force; 08-05-2010 at 11:24 AM.
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Old 08-05-2010, 11:08 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by suseagulls View Post
In switch one I have the power source, a three wire running from switch one to two. In switch 2, I have the three wire between the switches, and a three wire going to the outlet. Is this scenario right? Will the outlet work and be split the way I have it configured??
As you have be told this configuration will not have the extra hot wire to get a constant hot to the receptacle.

IMO the simplest way given what you have told us is to go to an electrical supply (not a big box store) and get 4 conductor nm-b (romex) ... buy it by the foot. Remove the 3 conductor romex you have between switches and replace with 4 conductor romex (nm-b). The wire colors will be black, white (neutral), red and blue plus a ground. Use red and blue for your travelers between the switches and use black to carry the constant hot to switch 2. You now have the constant hot wire at switch 2. Use the 3 wire between the receptacle and switch 2 to get a switched hot from the common of switch 2. I'd use the red of the 3 wire to common of switch 2 for switching half the receptacle . Black of 3 wire to black of 4 wire cable for your constant hot and white to white for your neutral for the receptacle.

As brric and delta have said your one wire short between switches to do what you want. You could also run some flex conduit between switches and install the wires you need. This may require changing your boxes that the switches are in to ones that will accept flex.
" One nice thing about the NEC articles ... you have lots of choices"

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