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Old 12-17-2010, 02:33 PM   #16
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If you are lucky enough to not have something unfortunate happen as a result of using lamp cord improperly, take a look at the pictures I'm attaching and tell me what it would do for your willingness to buy a house or pay asking price. I have eradicated every inch of lamp cord even though it has meant leaving the second floor with no lights or outlets.

Lamp cord is usually going to be smaller gauge wire than the 14 gauge NM cable that is minimum for 15 amp circuits or 12 gauge for 20 amp circuits. It is constructed with multiple strands of copper wire, and these strands may break reducing the effective wire gauge further, and when the wire is of smaller gauge it tends to heat up more. In your living space, you're generally in contact with finished surfaces which are probably less prone to ignition than something like drywall paper facing which isn't painted... What's more, in the living space you have direct access to extinguish a fire from a lamp cord and you'll more easily be able to detect it. Not so if its enclosed in a wall.

It would be no more difficult to properly run NM cable through your wall attaching it inside junction boxes, use old work boxes and you can probably do the job without any drywall work.

My project currently includes a circuit for direct wired with battery backup smoke detectors, most of my project is on the second floor which I've gutted, but I do have 3 smoke detectors on the first floor where I am not doing any drywall work. If I remember to, I can post pictures, but these were all done with old work boxes and with no drywall work, it looks like they were always there (aside from one smoke detector where my first hole I started, I hit a stud so I had to move over a few inches.)

As for trying to jury rig this existing light, ugh...

Okay, from your description your light sounds like it might be this one:

Let me make another suggestion. Use the lamp shade, if you think you can easily remove the base and somehow mount this to the wall you can probably just as easily mount some sort of metal pole, such as metal conduit, and mount the shades onto it. Then my suggestion would be that perhaps you could illuminate it with rope lighting. You'll also use less wattage.
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:06 PM   #17
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Yep - you guys nailed it - those are the exact lights form IKEA I have. We have a 2-story great room with 2 windows, then two other windows above them. There is about a 7 foot wide wall space between then that runs to the ceiling about 18 feet up. I had planed to put these vertically (straight up) one above the other. They'll have about a 3 foot space between them so I'm not worried there.

I'm starting to think perhaps the easiest solution is to go with the cord-hider on the outside of the wall. I would still need to replace the lamp cord on both of these so they are long enough.

But it's sort of funny - I understand why you shouldn't run lamp cord inside a wall. But it seems that those stick-on snap-shut cord hiders wouldn't be much different. I wonder if they are UL approved.
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:24 PM   #18
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Look--------Give up on your thought you heard from a number of people that it can not be done the way you want so just do it the right way and install the clock outlets and switch on the wall . You are sounding like a lawyer now asking the question 10 times with different wording, you can't do it that's it.
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:32 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by denemante View Post
But it seems that those stick-on snap-shut cord hiders wouldn't be much different. I wonder if they are UL approved.
The ones you use should be. I know WireMold products are. I'm sure you can find some out there that aren't if you look.
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:34 PM   #20
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you can't do it that's it.
Well, I suppose you can do anything you want, but I agree that it appears near unanimous that most of us think it a bad idea, illegal, or both.
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Old 12-17-2010, 09:35 PM   #21
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