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Old 03-31-2010, 10:37 AM   #76
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Yes, I would bottom feed the panel.
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Old 03-31-2010, 03:00 PM   #77
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#1; you can purchase factory 90's, 45's, and maybe some of lesser angle. Not sure about the last one as when I'm running conduit, I happen to have a bender available to me so it has never been important to me. If you can buy some lesser angles, you can piece this all together Using factory bends, straight pieces, and couplings. Isn't my favorite way to do it but it's legal, it will be hidden, and it will get the job done.

Be sure to ream or file the cut ends of the conduit so there are no burrs that could cut the insulation on the wire.

#1a. if you have a friend or a friend of a friend that has an electrician buddy that has access to a bender, beer or money can be a great persuader.


#2. sounds good

#3 as long as the main breaker is side to side, yes, you can mount it upside down. If you look at the thing, you will probably see decals/labels that are installed both ways just so one of them will be right side up however you mount it.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:23 PM   #78
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The guy at the local muffler shop bent the EMT pipe for me (refused compensation; said come back when I need muffler work -- I will). He put a 20* bend on both ends of a 10' segment.

I'm finding it a bit challenging trying to get it all to fit, however. I punched through the inner wall and took some measurements, and figured out that a) the old and new box are a bit closer than I thought; and b) the new box location is not as high as I thought. As you can see in the attached diagram, I only have 14" to play with to route the EMT from the bottom of the new panel to the top plate over the old one. I really need 24" to make a flat run, given the 90* fittings take about 12" in height. I can gain a couple inches by cutting the 90* fitting, but still not enough.

I'm going to play around with the parts a bit, and see if I can figure out how to make the run with the horizontal conduit crossing over at an angle, to manage the space problem. I can see where it'd be beneficial to have a bender, to customize the fit for this awkward situation. Instead, I'll just need to take my time and figure out how to twist and angle all the parts to finally fit (hopefully without having to go back to the muffler place for an "adjustment").

Not sure you all can help more at this point (unless you want to visit...-- and bring a bender). Thanks again for all the great advice! I could not have done it without your help!

Dan

PS: Cutting EMT sucks. Used a hacksaw, but think my blade's not sharp enough. Used a metal-cutting blade in a jigsaw. Used a metal-cutting disk in my circular saw. Still looking for the best approach. Guess I'll buy new hacksaw blades, and try to cut straighter...
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:29 PM   #79
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So, is this installation going to have service conductors and branch circuit conductors in the same emt?
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:33 PM   #80
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So, is this installation going to have service conductors and branch circuit conductors in the same emt?
I just hope the OP not doing that route at all with other conduits I know there are a bit of feixable conduit he can use it will be easier to fish in new conductors and I am sure it will be more than 6 flex conduits for sure all it depending on the numbers and size of conductors.

Merci,Marc
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:41 PM   #81
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What you should ask the muffer shop for Manderel bend which it mean it will bend without any kinks or shunked in couple part that can kill the whole conduit run.

otherwise you can try the offset kick if I remember right you have 2X4 construction on the walls so set the kicks at 4 or 4 1/2 inches it will fit in really nice.

Merci,Marc
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:43 PM   #82
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Service conductors are not allowed in the same raceway as branch circuit conductors and feeders.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:44 PM   #83
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So, is this installation going to have service conductors and branch circuit conductors in the same emt?
No way I'd do that. The 1 1/2" EMT is just for the service conductors (2/0).

I'll have a separate PVC conduit entering the box for the wires to the sub-panel (1 1/4" gray PVC, with 3 #1 wires and a #6 green). I'm routing it from the outside, so I think I'll be able to come straight into the back of the box for that one (no routing nightmares, I hope).

For the branch circuits, I'll route cables through the studs using a lot of bore holes (aligned vertically in the studs, with no side-by-side holes, and not too close to the forward stud edge).
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:46 PM   #84
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I guess I'm lost as to why the emt is going to the old panel.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:49 PM   #85
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What you should ask the muffer shop for Manderel bend which it mean it will bend without any kinks or shunked in couple part that can kill the whole conduit run.

otherwise you can try the offset kick if I remember right you have 2X4 construction on the walls so set the kicks at 4 or 4 1/2 inches it will fit in really nice.

Merci,Marc
Hmmm... The bends do have a bit of a kink in them. I'm attaching some photos.

"Manderel bend," eh? Rats......... I hope these bends are okay.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:52 PM   #86
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I guess I'm lost as to why the emt is going to the old panel.
the old panel sets in front of the meter base. this is the easiest method to get in from the meter base and eventually up to the new panel. He doesn't have enough room to go in the back of the meter base because the old panel and the wall is not thick enough to allow room for a 90 bend going into the meter base. anything else to get into the meter base would look pretty ugly.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:53 PM   #87
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Hmmm... The bends do have a bit of a kink in them. I'm attaching some photos.

"Manderel bend," eh? Rats......... I hope these bends are okay.
if you don't tell, I know I won't. they will suffice and they aren't really that bad to get freaked about.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:54 PM   #88
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the old panel sets in front of the meter base. this is the easiest method to get in from the meter base and eventually up to the new panel. He doesn't have enough room to go in the back of the meter base because the old panel and the wall is not thick enough to allow room for a 90 bend going into the meter base. anything else to get into the meter base would look pretty ugly.
Now I see said the blind man. The old branch circuits are then going to a new location.
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Old 03-31-2010, 07:55 PM   #89
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with that little kink like that you show on the photo IMO it should be ok but any more bend than that you will raise serious issue with inside opening as long you bring the new conductors in staggered pattern you will be fine.

Merci,Marc
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Old 03-31-2010, 08:00 PM   #90
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hay dan, a fine toothed hacksaw blade (24 tpi or finer) that has the paint scraped off, a real good grip with the opposite hand and a position that would make a yogi proud.


put the pipe behind the knee furthest from the hacksaw hand. then bend the knee closed onto the pipe. The pipe continues across the front of the thigh of the other leg. You end up in a kind of kneeling/seetting position. Then, using a Hulk grip with the non-saw hand, hold on and whack away with the whacksaw.

Looks weird, works pretty good.
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