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Old 09-17-2009, 07:24 PM   #16
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Is this the way most (all?) residential panels work?
Yes it is.

Your problem is very common with FPE and GE panels.

Are you in Canada? You say it was installed 20 years ago. FPE was pretty much dead by 1989 in the US, but for some reason FPE is quite alive and well in Canada, even to this day.
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Old 09-17-2009, 07:44 PM   #17
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Are you in Canada? You say it was installed 20 years ago. FPE was pretty much dead by 1989 in the US, but for some reason FPE is quite alive and well in Canada, even to this day.
I can't remember the exact date, but the permit on top of the panel is for sometime in the 80s. I say 20 years ago, but I suppose it was more like 25. I am in Canada, though.

I don't know about new FPE panels, but there certainly is no trouble finding the breakers here. They're fairly cheap (unlike the online prices I've seen) and plentiful.
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Old 09-17-2009, 11:33 PM   #18
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Hi All,

I'm installing a new receptacle for a table saw. It's a 15A 240V circuit on a 2-pole breaker with 14/3 wire. The saw draws 9A at 240V.

After installing the breaker I tested the receptacle. Each slot measured with ground reads 125V, but both slots together don't read 240. They read zero volts.

Here's how it's connected:

@Receptacle: the hots (red and black) are connected to the brass terminals. The neutral (white) is connected to the silver terminal. The ground (bare) is connected to ground. (I understand that since my saw requires no 120V circuit that I don't technically require the neutral, but I used it anyway. Eliminating it during subsequent troubleshooting made no difference.)



Thanks,
--Derek
Derek I just want to make sure if you have correct recpectale the 5-15R is common 120 volts 15 amp receptale while the true 240 volts 6-15R will have diffrent conferation and it will have no silver screws at all unless you have specal combation recepectale { that useally get by specal order and not really a big box store common item anyway}

Here the photo what it look like :



that what the true 240 receptale look like and this is a 15 amp verison if diffrent let us know we will show differnet photo.

And the FPE breaker you have to move the breaker down or up half space other wise get full size two pole breaker.

{ this is common with both FPE and GE breaker which I ran into more than once but other brand if end up use twinner single pole breaker that will useally do the same thing as I mention a second ago. }

Merci,Marc

Last edited by frenchelectrican; 09-17-2009 at 11:36 PM.
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:41 AM   #19
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Derek I just want to make sure if you have correct recpectale the 5-15R is common 120 volts 15 amp receptale while the true 240 volts 6-15R will have diffrent conferation and it will have no silver screws at all unless you have specal combation recepectale { that useally get by specal order and not really a big box store common item anyway}

Here the photo what it look like :



that what the true 240 receptale look like and this is a 15 amp verison if diffrent let us know we will show differnet photo.

Merci,Marc
Thanks, Marc. I have a 6-15R receptacle with a single outlet. It's exactly like the picture you posted, but it's a single receptacle.
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Old 09-18-2009, 07:56 AM   #20
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Uh.. if what you have is the 6-15R like Marc posted, how are you connecting a neutral wire? This receptacle only has connections for two hots and a ground.
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:18 AM   #21
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Uh.. if what you have is the 6-15R like Marc posted, how are you connecting a neutral wire? This receptacle only has connections for two hots and a ground.
You're right. I misread...posting during the first coffee is usually a bad idea.

I have one of these:
http://www.fdsons.com/250v-3wire-sin...470ed72bfe2178

The picture isn't very clear, but it has two brass terminals and a silver terminal.
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Old 09-18-2009, 08:59 AM   #22
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You're right. I misread...posting during the first coffee is usually a bad idea.

I have one of these:
http://www.fdsons.com/250v-3wire-sin...470ed72bfe2178

The picture isn't very clear, but it has two brass terminals and a silver terminal.

Well .,

To get the point the silver terminal what you show us the picture that should be be green screw not silver that is for ground not the netrual so give you a head up with it.

The two brass coloured screws that for hot conductors that it.

Merci,Marc
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:42 AM   #23
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Well .,

To get the point the silver terminal what you show us the picture that should be be green screw not silver that is for ground not the netrual so give you a head up with it.

The two brass coloured screws that for hot conductors that it.

Merci,Marc
I'm no electrician, but I've never seen a grounding screw that is silver; my understanding is the colours are coded for a reason; brass for hots, silver for neutrals, and green for grounds.

I understood that this receptacle is self-grounding, in that you ground to the box that the receptacle is attached to.

Can anyone clarify this for me?
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:14 AM   #24
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Hard to tell if that particular receptacle is self grounding or not, but it definitely does NOT have a neutral connection, just two hots and a ground.
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:21 AM   #25
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Hard to tell if that particular receptacle is self grounding or not, but it definitely does NOT have a neutral connection, just two hots and a ground.
So does that mean I'm wrong about the colour codes (brass, silver, and green)?

What receptacle should I be using?
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Old 09-18-2009, 10:32 AM   #26
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You've got the correct receptacle, just don't use the white wire (cap it off at the panel and the receptacle box). Connect a hot to each brass screw and the ground to the remaining screw. Do that and take care of your breaker problem and you will be good to go!.
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Old 09-18-2009, 11:19 AM   #27
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You've got the correct receptacle, just don't use the white wire (cap it off at the panel and the receptacle box). Connect a hot to each brass screw and the ground to the remaining screw. Do that and take care of your breaker problem and you will be good to go!.
Thanks. I'm going to take care of it now.
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Old 09-18-2009, 12:26 PM   #28
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Interesting, I had also assumed that the screw color coding would be correct

I guess we need another code revision



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Old 09-18-2009, 09:14 PM   #29
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Interesting, I had also assumed that the screw color coding would be correct

I guess we need another code revision
Most case useally correct but once a while you will see a slip from the factory set up I get like that once a while like that and the last one I got like that was little over year and half ago.

Merci,Marc
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Old 09-19-2009, 04:43 AM   #30
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Interesting, I had also assumed that the screw color coding would be correct

I guess we need another code revision
No revision needed, you are correct reguarding the grounding terminations on devices. See 250.126. Its gotta be green.
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