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Old 06-07-2009, 09:56 PM   #16
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WHY #2?
3's arent available here, maybe not there either???


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And WHY four???

Superground?
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:04 PM   #17
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3's arent available here, maybe not there either???
Valid point. I'd still use #4cu or #2al, unless it was a long run.




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Old 06-07-2009, 10:14 PM   #18
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WHY #2? And WHY four???
At my last house, I built a 30x56 barn and ran 100 amp service to it.

I ran 4 lines, and grounding rods and the inspector passed.

2 hots ,1 neutral, 1 ground.

Are you saying, I only need 2 hots, 1 neutral and bond the neutral and GEC in the sub-panel?

I wonder why the county passed the install at the old place then.

I am using #2 because that is what I have on hand and it is around 200-250' to the 40'x68' shop.
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Old 06-07-2009, 10:20 PM   #19
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No, by "why four #2's" I meant why #2 for the ground. I see now that you have it on hand which is as good a reason as any.
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Old 06-08-2009, 08:57 AM   #20
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No, by "why four #2's" I meant why #2 for the ground. I see now that you have it on hand which is as good a reason as any.
If I was running short on #2 and had to go buy some wire just for the found, what is the minimum size I can run in CU? #4?


and now back to you regularly scheduled programming.
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:09 AM   #21
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If I was running short on #2 and had to go buy some wire just for the found, what is the minimum size I can run in CU? #4?


and now back to you regularly scheduled programming.
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Old 06-08-2009, 10:44 AM   #22
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alright thanks 220/221 and everyone else What size grounding rods should we be using, looks like 1/2 to 1" is sufficient you fellas have some good tips for installing them? I saw a kit that offered a two piece rod, if I can't find a two piece, can I cut a " standard" grounding rod to make the install easier?

I can use a different gauge for my ground ?
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Old 06-08-2009, 12:43 PM   #23
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I can use a different gauge for my ground ?
Yes, the ground doesn't have to be as large as the other three conductors. For 100 A, you can use a #8 ground. Above that a #6 is required. As far as ground rods go, you need 8' of rod in contact with the earth, so no cutting. I use two rods, at least 6' apart and jumped together then to the panel.
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Old 06-08-2009, 02:58 PM   #24
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Yes, the ground doesn't have to be as large as the other three conductors. For 100 A, you can use a #8 ground. Above that a #6 is required. As far as ground rods go, you need 8' of rod in contact with the earth, so no cutting. I use two rods, at least 6' apart and jumped together then to the panel.
What he said, you cannot cut the rods. I was told than when installing two rods, make sure that the part of the rod that has the UL info stamped, is above ground...so that the inspector doesnt think you did cut one rod in half to complete the job.

As for how to get them in the ground, really depends on your soil conditions.

Here, I hammer it in a few inches at a time, then pull it out and put water in the hole, then hammer it in a few inches deeper, etc.

Took me about 20 minutes per rod doing it this way the last time around.

I've also heard of putting it in the end of a big hammer drill and going to town that way.
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Old 06-08-2009, 09:44 PM   #25
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Old 05-20-2010, 10:18 AM   #26
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Hi guys its been a little while since posting. Anyhow, jsut to go over several issues.

Here's my conductor specs 600v AWG2 33.62 mm2 CU type MTW or THWN-2

2 AWG 100' out from the main panel. Half is in the attic and needs to go out under the eves to the shop.
Does this wire need to be in conduit? I've been told it depends on the wire type I was also made aware not to put wire in the conduit the full length, due to needing to breath, sound right? With this wire type and gauge this is a direct bury or .......?








I thank you guys for your help
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Old 05-20-2010, 11:49 AM   #27
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You bought the wire before figuring out how to run it? I suspect the wire you are talking about is THHN, wich also makes it compatible with those other two you listed.

You need to dig a trench per local code depth... probably 24". Bury a conduit in that trench, and put a concrete cap over it at the 12" point (so if someone is digging and suddenly hits a concrete curb underground, they have an inkling they are about to hit a wire!). Whatever the correct conduit size is for your conductor, buy the next size up. It will be easier to pull and will allow you a larger conductor if you need it in the future.

You will have a sweep up on both ends to the vertical section that you would likely put on the outside wall of each building. Here you would tie into conduit going to your attic or wherever you boxes were.

BTW, dont use one 20 amp breaker for all your lights and outlets. Use one 15 amp for your lights, and two 20 amps for your outlets.

Just so you know, when i was cutting over my electrical from an old panel to a new one, I ran my whole house off one 40 amp breaker and never tripped it... and we have an electric stove too!

Last edited by xxPaulCPxx; 05-20-2010 at 11:52 AM.
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Old 05-20-2010, 12:00 PM   #28
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Yes, conduit needed...complete run from one end to the other for THWN
Is this an attached shop ?
I'm thinking detached since you mentioned grounding rods
18" burial is normal for PVC conduit, no cement cap required, put caution tape in
I'd use 2", but 1.5" meets conduit fill
I was required to have sand under the conduit & on top
Does it go under a driveway or anything like that ?
Metal conduit maybe less....



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