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Old 12-30-2014, 10:33 PM   #16
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Christ. Deeper into the rabbit hole I go.

Ok so does that mean I have to have a circuit panel with a GFI protected circuit/GFCI breaker or is that something the electrician could install outside of the panel? Could a relay serve this purpose because it would shoulder the load for the air conditioner or would it still be recommended I have a GFI/GFCI? Why are they even recommending this GFI protected circuit/GFCI breaker?

If you were in my shoes, and you bought this switch that is rated well above the power that it will handle, would you waste your time and money installing a GFI circuit/GFCI breaker?
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:37 PM   #17
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I think it is as simple as you think. It appears from the wiring diagram you have power in and power out and neutral/ground. I think the neutral is for the indicator lights. I am also assuming you have single conductor to ground configuration one hot wire to ground is 220 volts. Different than the USA. Looks like a set of contacts with two white wires connected to them in a held (see the spring) open position. Insert card and the magnet or metal in the key closes the switch and turns on whatever loads it is supposed to as it will attract the magnet

And yes if you have 220 volts to ground it will support 3300 watts.
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:44 PM   #18
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So are we assuming the Fire line hole is the power in and the light line hole is the power out?
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:46 PM   #19
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I have one more question and I'll be on my way to having my guy test this. IF it actually can't handle wattage running through it what would happen? Would the circuit breaker shut off, would the power switch malfunction and fry, would everything connected to the switch possibly malfunction and fry, would nothing even turn on, etc?
The switch will over heat and burn out !
This could also easily start a fire
So definitely NOT recommended !
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Old 12-30-2014, 10:53 PM   #20
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So are we assuming the Fire line hole is the power in and the light line hole is the power out?
I will ask this: is power to the hotel 220 volts phase to neutral or 220 volts phase to phase?

In either case the line (phase one) will connect to "fire" while the second phase or neutral will connect to "ground"


Differential protection means GFCI/RCD. Basically it recommends that the circuit for this switch be protected with an GFCI/RCD, and if the Philippines is following the IEC codes than a very good chance exists that an RCD is necessary.
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Old 12-30-2014, 11:04 PM   #21
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So are we assuming the Fire line hole is the power in and the light line hole is the power out?
Yes, the switch receives power then closes on key insert sending power to the light or whatever indicated by the circle with the X then on the other side of the X you have neutral/ground. They bring a neutral/ground to the switch to allow for a small green indicator bulb it appears .

It appears to be simple 2 wire with no safety ground like we used to have in the usa. I think you look at ground the same as we look at neutral here in the USA.
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Old 12-30-2014, 11:11 PM   #22
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Ha! You beat me!
Nothing wrong with agreeing.
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Old 12-31-2014, 12:08 AM   #23
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Sorry I forgot it was 25 AMPS. If my guests paid $10 to keep their aircon on all day that would be fine, otherwise now I know not to hand out extra power switch keys ;-) Plus once I find a occupancy sensor that can handle my room circuits I'll replace these and then there will be no possibility for hacking or bribing for power haha.
Find out the switch's HP rating. 25A is for a resistive load. Motor inrush current of the compressor in the AC might be much higher than 25A.
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Old 12-31-2014, 01:58 PM   #24
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Switches that are going to be subjected to high-inrush inductive loads, such as an AC motor, will often be rated in horsepower in addition to volts and amps. This rating reflects the amount of current the switch contacts can handle at the moment the device is turned on. An AC motor will draw up to eight times its running current when first turned on or when held stationary while energized (stalled rotor).
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Old 01-01-2015, 10:59 PM   #25
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I'm going to look for a relay in stores.

Is this what they look like? Or is this not the type I would use for an aircon?

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...rds=110v+relay
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Old 01-02-2015, 06:20 AM   #26
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Merged threads.
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Old 01-06-2015, 06:29 AM   #27
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Hey guys. Can anyone confirm if this is what I need?

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...rds=110v+relay

Also, my electrician showed me this is what he is going to use.

http://imgur.com/a/0aNky

This doesn't look like a relay, this looks like a circuit board. So this doesn't appear to be a mistranslation, he really means a magnetic circuit breaker. There is nothing about this that is a relay right guys? But he keeps describing what a relay does (the electromagnetic connection).
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Old 01-06-2015, 08:01 AM   #28
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Hey guys. Can anyone confirm if this is what I need?

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_no...rds=110v+relay

Also, my electrician showed me this is what he is going to use.

http://imgur.com/a/0aNky

This doesn't look like a relay, this looks like a circuit board. So this doesn't appear to be a mistranslation, he really means a magnetic circuit breaker. There is nothing about this that is a relay right guys? But he keeps describing what a relay does (the electromagnetic connection).

The device to the far right in the second link is a relay. The keycard could activate that to give power either into the consumer unit or out of it.
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Old 01-06-2015, 10:53 AM   #29
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I apologize I was told my amazon link was broken.

So again, could I use this relay/contactor instead of that circuit board with a relay already in it?

http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-...110+volt+rleay
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Old 01-06-2015, 12:03 PM   #30
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Quote:
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I apologize I was told my amazon link was broken.

So again, could I use this relay/contactor instead of that circuit board with a relay already in it?

http://www.amazon.com/Packard-C230B-...110+volt+rleay
It depends on what you are trying to accomplish. Do you want to just switch one circuit?
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