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Old 03-20-2010, 11:15 AM   #1
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Installing Dishwasher,Need advise on Wiring


Hi

We Finally bought a Dishwasher(kenmoore)

I prefer to install it myself,then the $175 fee sears wants.

I'm pretty much 100% on the plumbing

(Does a overflow pipe need to installed on the hot side)

Anyways

1,Shut off Valve

2,Drain tub

The wiring I don't know???

I've read 12/2 wire but there are so many available I'm not sure.

Is a 20 amp circuit really needed or can a 15 amp be used with 14/2 wire.

I really at this point don't want an electrician as its going to be a 15FT run,I would like to try on my own and if I miss up then hire him/her in.

Thanks
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Old 03-20-2010, 01:14 PM   #2
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Typically a dishwasher needs it own dedicated circuit. Simplest to run 12/2 with ground, install a 20 amp breaker. Since this is in the kitchen, some jurisdictions may require a GFCI for the circuit, check with your local code enforcement official. Also, some jurisdictions may require a visible switch to control the circuit, this is a safety measure to allow a technician to work on the dishwasher in a visibly off condition. Obviously they are going to turn the breaker off also, but since the breaker is not typically visible, the thought I guess is that it is possible someone could turn the breaker on while the tech is working on the dishwasher, versus a switch that is visible is more positive. Anyway, check with your local code enforcement official, you may not need a separate switch.

Theoretically you could use 14 gage wire and run a 15 amp breaker, I wouldn't do it, you save a few dollars, but I do all my wiring with 12 gage minimum.
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Old 03-20-2010, 02:21 PM   #3
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I would run a 12-2 w Ground to under the sink and install an outlet then I would run heavy duty cord with plug on it. Wire into the electrical box on the dishwasher and run the cord through the cabinet with the water and drain line and plug it in.
That way you have flexibility and can unplug it any time you want.
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Old 03-20-2010, 04:36 PM   #4
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You might want to read this post, the author recommends hard wiring of the dishwasher to minimize the potential for the plug coming loose.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/k...stall/new1.htm
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Old 03-20-2010, 05:05 PM   #5
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I would have my reservations on using "heater hose" unless it was "suitable for potable water".
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Old 03-20-2010, 05:11 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobelectric View Post
I would have my reservations on using "heater hose" unless it was "suitable for potable water".
Huh??????????
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Old 03-20-2010, 05:15 PM   #7
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Look in your dishwasher and look at the name plate and see what the unit draws, if it close to 15A(13A-15A) then a 20A circuit would not be a bad idea.
If it is lower then that save the few bucks and run a 15A circuit, you should never put anything else on that circuit so you will have no chance of overloading it.
All the dishwashers I have seen work fine on a 15A circuit.
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Old 03-20-2010, 06:35 PM   #8
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If a cordset is used with the DW it must be a listed assembly. Making a cord using off the shelf components is not an NEC approved method.
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Old 03-23-2010, 09:25 AM   #9
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Thanks for the reply's

It seems the Panel is Full not one spot available

Can I use a tandem breaker 15/20

I know a Dishwasher needs it's own Dedicated 20Amp circuit but I wanted to know if one of those would work.

thanks
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:13 AM   #10
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Depends on the brand and model of the panel.
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Old 03-23-2010, 11:30 AM   #11
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Not all panels are listed for use with tandems. Post the brand and model number and someone can tell if a tandem is an option.
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Old 03-23-2010, 01:31 PM   #12
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Where is this info listed,Cover or inside panel?

I'm thinking this is a quick fix for $20 if my panel does take them and not a good solution now.

I plan later on this year to make a bathroom downstairs and I will need lighting etc

Maybe a small 6 circuit panel added to the main board is better if we can afford the pros to come in.

Last edited by K.M.G; 03-23-2010 at 01:33 PM.
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Old 03-24-2010, 06:38 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel Holzman View Post
You might want to read this post, the author recommends hard wiring of the dishwasher to minimize the potential for the plug coming loose.

http://www.hammerzone.com/archives/k...stall/new1.htm
If you read his article carefully you see that he did make a cord and male plug end and used the outlet under the sink. Reread.

NOTE: I wouldn't make a cord the way he does though I would use a NEC approved cord designed for the application.

Last edited by COLDIRON; 03-24-2010 at 06:43 AM.
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Old 03-25-2010, 01:11 AM   #14
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I have a whirlpool dishwasher, and most kenmore's are manufactured by whirlpool. It came with installation instructions, which must be adapted to meet your code. If you don't have them, I believe you can find them online.
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Old 03-25-2010, 07:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K.M.G View Post
Where is this info listed,Cover or inside panel?

I'm thinking this is a quick fix for $20 if my panel does take them and not a good solution now.

I plan later on this year to make a bathroom downstairs and I will need lighting etc

Maybe a small 6 circuit panel added to the main board is better if we can afford the pros to come in.
If you are out of room in your main panel then I woud plan on a sub-panel
One of the 1st things I did was install a 100a sub 3' to theleft of the 200a main
This gave me plenty of room to run wahtever I wanted
I did initially buy (3) Tandem breakers as a Temp solution



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