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Old 01-22-2010, 07:03 AM   #1
 
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Hunter Fan Wiring


Hi,

I purchased an aftermarket remote dimmer for a Hunter fan (basic - no light). I would like to bypass the pull chain and run the hot through the reverse switch at full speed and then to the remote module. Is this possible? I had the fan running at full speed prior to removing the reverse switch. The remote dimmer is a Lutron Maestro and just requires one hot in, one hot out, and a neutral. I have reviewed the wiring diagrams but they do not indicate the proper colors and there are five of them so I don't know the proper color combination. I would appreciate help if anyone can.

Thanks,
Dan
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:34 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by djh7djh7 View Post
Hi,

I purchased an aftermarket remote dimmer for a Hunter fan (basic - no light). I would like to bypass the pull chain and run the hot through the reverse switch at full speed and then to the remote module. Is this possible? I had the fan running at full speed prior to removing the reverse switch. The remote dimmer is a Lutron Maestro and just requires one hot in, one hot out, and a neutral. I have reviewed the wiring diagrams but they do not indicate the proper colors and there are five of them so I don't know the proper color combination. I would appreciate help if anyone can.

Thanks,
Dan
Typical fan remotes have White and Black In (connect to white and back from cable in ceiling box): White , Black and Blue out (connect to white, black and blue from fan). If there is no blue fan lead, put wire nut on Blue from remote.
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:58 AM   #3
 
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Typical fan remotes have White and Black In (connect to white and back from cable in ceiling box): White , Black and Blue out (connect to white, black and blue from fan). If there is no blue fan lead, put wire nut on Blue from remote.
Hot black lead to a three wire connection? The other two are for the capacitor I'm assuming? Also can I still use the reverse switch? Thank you very much for your help.
Dan
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Old 01-22-2010, 09:42 AM   #4
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It may help if you put the dimmer model number. I see that Lutron Maesto has several types. Are you replacing the wall control with this remote? In my experience, it is not necessary to rewire the fan in order to use one of these remotes or replacement controls. I don't understand why you would remove the reverse switch or bypass a pull chain.
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Old 01-22-2010, 12:00 PM   #5
 
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Lutron says the module can't work with what was the existing variable speed switch, so I took it apart (bad move). Now I have a hot a neutral and something needs to go to that fan. It sounds like it's the blue wire from the first response. Thanks.
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Old 01-22-2010, 12:22 PM   #6
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Lutron says the module can't work with what was the existing variable speed switch, so I took it apart (bad move). Now I have a hot a neutral and something needs to go to that fan. It sounds like it's the blue wire from the first response. Thanks.
If you have a hot neutral you had better stop. Put the fan back together like you bought it. The statement that the remote will not work with the variable speed switch means that you leave the switch set on high and let the remote control the speed. (I usually cut the chain off so that no one pulls the switch.) Post the model of the Lutron remote so we can give you more than generic info. The blue wire is not the problem: the blue wire to the fan is for the light kit. Since you do not have a light kit, it is wired for the future addition of a light kit.
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Old 01-22-2010, 12:53 PM   #7
 
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If you have a hot neutral you had better stop. Put the fan back together like you bought it. The statement that the remote will not work with the variable speed switch means that you leave the switch set on high and let the remote control the speed. (I usually cut the chain off so that no one pulls the switch.) Post the model of the Lutron remote so we can give you more than generic info. The blue wire is not the problem: the blue wire to the fan is for the light kit. Since you do not have a light kit, it is wired for the future addition of a light kit.
The neutral isn't hot. I have a hot lead and a neutral. Then I have a Zebra. Al of them are 12 gauge. Then I have 5 colored wires @ 14 gauge - Brown, Grey, Yellow, Red & Blue. The Lutron system is an MIR-FQ4FMT which includes a switch, a remote that goes to the switch and the module to be put in the fan. The fan module is an R16 MC. I want to set the switch on high and let the Lutron do it's job - I just don't know what to tie the not into of those 5 wires. I'm assuming the Zebra is for a future light kit due to it's gauge and that it enters the junction box with the hot lead. The light gauge 5 wires go to the fan itself. So a hot and neutral in with a dead 2nd hot (assuming for a future fan as mentioned) and five wires that go to the fan that I don't know what to do with.
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Old 01-22-2010, 12:59 PM   #8
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Since you specifically mentioned Hunter, is this a Hunter ORIGINAL fan? If so, they are heavier and use more current (at high speed) than typical fans and require special controls. Many of the after-market fan controls are not designed for an "Original".
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:03 PM   #9
 
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Since you specifically mentioned Hunter, is this a Hunter ORIGINAL fan? If so, they are heavier and use more current (at high speed) than typical fans and require special controls. Many of the after-market fan controls are not designed for an "Original".
Yes - it is a Hunter ORIGINAL.
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:45 PM   #10
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I don't recall details on why, but Hunter Originals required special controls, and I distinctly recall how HEAVY those things were. Their hanger brackets are supposed to be mounted directly to a ceiling joist, NOT just to a typical ceiling fan hanging bracket. If you had to mount an Original between joists, they made a super-heavyduty hanging bracket that could be mounted between joists.

As an example, check out the Hunter Web Site for controllers: http://www.hunterfan.com/ceiling-fan-controls.aspx
You will notice that they have many controllers listed as "All Fan", while others say "for Hunter Original fans".

Again, I don't recall the details, but the instruction manual says to not use a "solid-state speed control" with the fan.



I'm not sure what all is special about the

Here's an example of what I could find with a 2sec Google:
http://www.amazon.com/Hunter-27187-3.../dp/B0014A13WO

You will notice how it is specifically labeled for Hunter Originals.

I don't recall all the details (it's been years since I've seen the specs on a Hunter Original), I seem to remember that
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:47 PM   #11
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OK, I looked up the manual for your switch. It includes, as you say, the wall unit, and the canopy unit (and, of course, the remote). The wall unit has a green wire and two screw terminals. The instructions assume that your wall box includes line, neutral, and ground from your supply, and line, neutral, and ground from the wall box to the ceiling box. Based on your desciption, you have a lot more going on that this. You have brown and yellow and grey and red an blue wires. Do you have an idea were these other wires go? What they do? Do they have voltages?

Your canopy module should have three wires: black, white, and yellow. Black is shown tied to the black from the wall box, which is connected to one of the two screw terminals. White is shown connected to the white of the fan AND to the white from the wall box, where it is pigtailed to the white from supply. Yellow from the module supplies the fan's black. While the manual does not show this, I would assume that your fixture should also be grounded.

Apparently, there is concern that you may require higher power from this fan than other types. Be sure to check the power requirements and compare to the capability of the lutron dimmer. I suggest avoiding exceeding the lutron capability. Hopefully, you won't have to.

If the instructions you recieved with your Lutron module are difficult to follow, or if you have house wiring different from this that you cannot identify, you may want to consider enlisting some assistance. It sounds to me like you have some extra wires in there that need to be understood before proceding further.
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Old 01-22-2010, 01:56 PM   #12
 
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OK, I looked up the manual for your switch. It includes, as you say, the wall unit, and the canopy unit (and, of course, the remote). The wall unit has a green wire and two screw terminals. The instructions assume that your wall box includes line, neutral, and ground from your supply, and line, neutral, and ground from the wall box to the ceiling box. Based on your desciption, you have a lot more going on that this. You have brown and yellow and grey and red an blue wires. Do you have an idea were these other wires go? What they do? Do they have voltages?

Your canopy module should have three wires: black, white, and yellow. Black is shown tied to the black from the wall box, which is connected to one of the two screw terminals. White is shown connected to the white of the fan AND to the white from the wall box, where it is pigtailed to the white from supply. Yellow from the module supplies the fan's black. While the manual does not show this, I would assume that your fixture should also be grounded.

Apparently, there is concern that you may require higher power from this fan than other types. Be sure to check the power requirements and compare to the capability of the lutron dimmer. I suggest avoiding exceeding the lutron capability. Hopefully, you won't have to.

If the instructions you recieved with your Lutron module are difficult to follow, or if you have house wiring different from this that you cannot identify, you may want to consider enlisting some assistance. It sounds to me like you have some extra wires in there that need to be understood before proceding further.
Yes - got all of that. I just can't figure out how they wired this thing as far as colors initially so don't know what they control and Hunter had no wiring diagrams. I have plenty of power because it worked fine before this project. I think the multiple wires have to do with the reverse switch which I abandoned while doing this. Not sure where to go from here.
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Old 01-22-2010, 02:46 PM   #13
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Don't know if this will help...

http://www.bobvila.com/wwwboard/messages/294424.html

...but it points out how changing capacitance helps change the fan speed. Makes sense why the fan instructions say not to use solid state electronics to control fan speed... and I had vauguly recalled (but didn't say anything) about Hunter Fan Speed "dimmer" switches doing something with capacitance.
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:03 PM   #14
 
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Don't know if this will help...

http://www.bobvila.com/wwwboard/messages/294424.html

...but it points out how changing capacitance helps change the fan speed. Makes sense why the fan instructions say not to use solid state electronics to control fan speed... and I had vauguly recalled (but didn't say anything) about Hunter Fan Speed "dimmer" switches doing something with capacitance.
I actually got it going (partially) per this page. I can get it going at slow speed but I have to start it manually - then it maintains itself. Does this mean I should not use the Lutron dimmer?
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Old 01-22-2010, 03:27 PM   #15
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If the capcitor is properly connected, you should not have to start it manually (which I take to mean "by pushing the blades").
Fundimentally, I would think you would need to get the fan basically hard-wired to run on high before connecting it to any dimmer... not to mention it HAS to be able to start on its own.

As for using the Lutron dimmer, I have been able to find references online where certain Lutron dimmers specific say not recommended for Hunter Originals: http://www.bestbuyelectric.com/acata...FSQ-LF-WH.html But I can't find anything (at least not with a quick search) that indicates if the dimmer you have is or is not recommended with a Hunter Original. http://www.lutron.com/CMS400/page.aspx?id=16949 They have a tool free number, perhaps you should give them a call to see if your dimmer is suitable for use with a Hunter Original.

In the mean time, I sort of hope you have a 2nd Hunter Original in the house that you can "crack open" and see how it's wired to fix this one.
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