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Old 01-05-2010, 05:49 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by codeone View Post
One would think that with a company like GE that they have done extensive testing and have a UL listing when selling and advertizing a product such as this for the application. Espically for their own liability.
Only if they make the fixture, my old bathroom fixture was rated for 100w
But the sensor would always shut the light off, no insulation around the light
I used a 23w instead - no problems
I've since installed a new fixture w/dual 13w CFL's



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Old 01-05-2010, 06:34 PM   #17
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Yep, and if you are intent on trying this halogen approach in an enclosed fixture with limited cooling around it I would definitely think about upgrading the wiring in it. The good news is that the fixture you show is not directly on the wall. A halogen is going to bake the wiring though and good luck hoping the plastic retainer ring you mention is going to last long.

I mention again that if you go to a lighting store you can get CFLs and LED arrays in nice colors of light. They will last longer than halogens too. I converted all the ambient light in my gallery client spaces to more or less full spectrum CFL save for where we are trying out LED. If only the LEDs were brighter.

Again, nothing against halogens and we live by them in the gallery world. Little suckers are hot though even encased in a bulb like you showed. And also as I have mentioned, my gallery clients buy halogens by the truckload because they are not especially long lived. They probably last longer in a gallery environment than a home though because they are on most of the time and not expected to heat up and cool down regularly. Cannot say for sure. Get used to the idea of replacing them frequently though.
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Old 01-05-2010, 07:00 PM   #18
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I used to use 175-250w halogens in my salt water fish tank
They do add heat, mine would keep the aquarium warm (80)
I downgraded the lights thinking I would save $$, but now the heater runs more

If you use AC a lot it will run more, but if you only have a few not that bad
But consider each one is like running a 50-60w heater
Now think about the color spectrum you like
That will change over a year to 1.5 years depending upon the color
Possibly even a shorter time period
With the halogens on the SW tank we find that bulbs need to be changed every 9 months to 1 year to keep the same color
A few people have done extensive tests to determine the best time frame for this
It does vary by bulb/Mfg



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Old 01-05-2010, 09:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
Only if they make the fixture, my old bathroom fixture was rated for 100w
But the sensor would always shut the light off, no insulation around the light
I used a 23w instead - no problems
I've since installed a new fixture w/dual 13w CFL's
Some bulbs do have either SA listing and some do have UL listings.
Bought 2 tonight with the SA listing.

However you are correct about the fact the halogen do heat hotter and the 60 w rating might be a problem in a 60w rated enclosed fixture. Would recomend caution.
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Old 01-05-2010, 10:08 PM   #20
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I have not heard of the SA rating...what is that ?
I did a search but nothing worthwhile came up



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Old 01-05-2010, 10:17 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
I have not heard of the SA rating...what is that ?
I did a search but nothing worthwhile came up
Check this link. Standards Association= (SA)

http://standards.ieee.org/esrc/standards.html
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Old 01-08-2010, 02:19 PM   #22
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Halogen bulbs are more efficient than conventional tungsten incandescents. The efficiency of a bulb is determined by the amount of visible light compared to the power consumed. Any power not converted into visible light must become heat energy. Since we've established that halogens are more efficient (if you don't believe me, use Google or note the lumens on a 60W halogen versus a 60W tungsten incandescent), that means that less electricity is wasted in the form of heat energy. So halogens do NOT run "hotter". However, they have achieved a reputation for such because the generally smaller bulb design (less surface area means that heat transfers more slowly) means that the surface temperature can be hotter. This is more dangerous if a flammable object makes contact with the bulb (which is why those 150W floor lamps started coming with screens), but there won't be any more heat building up in an enclosed space.
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