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Old 07-08-2009, 01:25 PM   #1
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Grounding My Water Pipes


I was reading Wiring a House by Rex Cauldwell. If my memory serves, he said to connect a wire from the hot water pipe to the cold water pipe right above the WH. That way, the pipes will be grounded if the WH is non-metallic or is being replaced. My rental house has this.

If I should do this in my own house, what parts do I need?
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Old 07-08-2009, 01:33 PM   #2
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It's not required and it's never done but....two pipe clamps and a short piece of #4 wire will cover you with a 200A service

This shows # 10 wire.


Last edited by 220/221; 07-08-2009 at 01:37 PM.
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Old 07-08-2009, 02:04 PM   #3
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If I don't do it on a service up-grade, I won't pass the inspection.
Forgot about it once, had to go back.
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Old 07-08-2009, 02:15 PM   #4
 
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yeah and also if you have ccity water, a jumper is required across the water meter as well i believe someone correct me if im wrong
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Old 07-08-2009, 02:26 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hpp58 View Post
If I don't do it on a service up-grade, I won't pass the inspection.
Forgot about it once, had to go back.
I have NEVER had to do this nor was I ever asked.
It is not code required and serves very little purpose. The hot water pipes are bonded through sink and shower valves and other cross piping.
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Old 07-08-2009, 02:34 PM   #6
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Lately, the water bonding is becoming less of an issue with all the new pex like stuff being installed.

It has never been a requirement in my area to jumper to the hot water. In a complete copper system, like Petey said, they will be tied together at several points.
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Old 07-08-2009, 04:13 PM   #7
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Usually I agree with Speedy, but not exactly in this case. I don't like the idea of relying on non-electrical equipment to perform an electrical job, like bonding. I don't see how a hot water line can really get solidly bonded if you don't intentionally do it. I mean, connections at fixtures are done with flexible hoses, and even if they are metallic, pipe dope or teflon tape is usually present at the actual interface points.

No, incidental bonding is no match for intentional bonding. And since the code specifies that continuity must be maintained around removable parts, well, a water heater is a removable part.
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Old 07-08-2009, 04:26 PM   #8
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Quote:
I don't like the idea of relying on non-electrical equipment to perform an electrical job, like bonding. I don't see how a hot water line can really get solidly bonded if you don't intentionally do it
You don't bond every piece of copper together. You rely on the soldered coupling.

The handsets in the tub/shower still all are soldered together, arent they?

I have seen kitchen and lav sets that are tied together with flex pieces but not tub/shower valves.

In any case, the remodels I have seen lately have the piping all chopped up with non metallic pipe in between so the whole thing gets compromised.
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Old 07-08-2009, 04:52 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by 220/221 View Post
You don't bond every piece of copper together. You rely on the soldered coupling.

The handsets in the tub/shower still all are soldered together, arent they?

I have seen kitchen and lav sets that are tied together with flex pieces but not tub/shower valves.

In any case, the remodels I have seen lately have the piping all chopped up with non metallic pipe in between so the whole thing gets compromised.
I suppose the tub set is one way. I still wouldn't rely on it, because it takes almost no extra time or energy to just jump it out.

I also wouldn't bother with a system that was all chopped up, like PVC or pex, but metallic braided flex hook-ups. But systems that are majority copper that can get energized at one end of the house and kill you at the other end, need to be bonded.
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Old 07-08-2009, 05:12 PM   #10
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But systems that are majority copper that can get energized at one end of the house and kill you at the other end, need to be bonded.
I am starting to lean the other way on this.

When the service neutral is lost, the piping carries current, which wouldn't happen if it wasn't bonded.

Malfunctions can kill you either way I guess.
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Old 07-08-2009, 06:41 PM   #11
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Mine is bonded across the meter & a whole house water filter
The hot & cold are also bonded together over the water heater
Connections to sinks etc can be the plastic tube now instead of copper pipe



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Old 07-08-2009, 08:57 PM   #12
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How about bonding the four rails of my garage door opener? Then coonect it to a ground rod on my subpanel?
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:04 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by sweaty View Post
How about bonding the four rails of my garage door opener? Then coonect it to a ground rod on my subpanel?
Why? Not often that you are in a compromising position when also contacting a garage door, besides the fact that the garage door opener should be grounded through the circuit it is connected to.
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:07 PM   #14
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I was wondering if he was serious?
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Old 07-08-2009, 09:25 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbberns View Post
I was wondering if he was serious?
I was thinking he was cracking wise as well, but it's hard to tell when reading...
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