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Old 07-18-2009, 07:42 AM   #16
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Don't see anything wrong with the ELECTRICAL code with a tree in your driveway.
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Old 07-18-2009, 06:50 PM   #17
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Ponch,
I appreciate the attempt. I think it deserves more attention that it has gotten. I'd sure like to see a basic residential wiring plan with some guidelines for how a panel should be populated, # of branch circuits, etc. Its not like this hasn't been done a million times or so with very little variation.

I have been reading the electrical code and it sure could use a DIY version just for residential stuff. If its not going to appear on this forum, then maybe someone knows a good book I can go out and buy.
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Old 07-18-2009, 07:30 PM   #18
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Here's a good cheat sheet

http://www.dora.state.co.us/Electric...nerPermits.pdf
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Old 07-18-2009, 10:23 PM   #19
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I though any colored wire with the exception of green or bare (Safety ground) and white(return/neutral) are to be treated as "Hot" for 120 circuits. 14-3 romex used for three way connections use red/black/white/bare.

John

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Squirrel View Post
This reminds me, my kitchen currently has no GFI outlet near the sink, just a regular. I should replace it with one. I don't think it's on it's own circuit though. I do have several circuits in the kitchen but they're all mixed around with other circuits in the house, it's kinda weird.


Also some more tips (gotten most from this forum actually, just thought I'd put all in one spot)

- Max devices (any point where power is accessible, ex: light, junction box, switch that also has feed going through, etc) per circuit: 12

- Wire sizes/amps:
14awg: 15A
12awg: 20A
10awg: 30A
8awg: 45A

- Color codes:

white: neutral
black: hot (120v)
red: hot (240v)
bare copper: ground

silver screws (ex plug) : neutral wire
gold screws: hot wire
green screws: ground


(someone correct me if I'm wrong on anything)
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Old 07-19-2009, 02:37 PM   #20
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Yes - red can also be used as a 120v line
also used as the "signal" line for smokes

Quote:
- Max devices (any point where power is accessible, ex: light, junction box, switch that also has feed going through, etc) per circuit: 12
I'm not aware of this in a residential setting
I usually will not put more then 12 outlets on a circuit
But I can guarantee you that some of my lighting circuits have more then 12 switches/lights
Using CFL recessed lights at 13w each you could have 138 on one 15a circuit without going over the 1800w circuit rating



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Old 07-19-2009, 04:50 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponch37300 View Post

There must be 2 circuits that are 20 amp and GFCI protected and nothing else can be wired off these circuits.
As previously stated by nolatigabait, other specific receptacles can be on these circuits, also code allows the fridge to be on one of these circuits, not a good idea, but legal. Code also says if fridge is not on one of these circuits it must be on its own 15 amp or greater circuit, a good idea. See 210.52(B)
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Old 07-19-2009, 04:59 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
Yes - red can also be used as a 120v line
also used as the "signal" line for smokes



I'm not aware of this in a residential setting
I usually will not put more then 12 outlets on a circuit
But I can guarantee you that some of my lighting circuits have more then 12 switches/lights
Using CFL recessed lights at 13w each you could have 138 on one 15a circuit without going over the 1800w circuit rating
You are correct. The number of receptacles on a circuit is not defined for residential applications.

Red is commonly used as a 120v supply in resi. and comm. jobs
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Old 07-19-2009, 05:06 PM   #23
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A white wire can used for a for more than a neutral. See 200.(7)(C)), and while it should be marked, it rarely is!!!! Be careful.
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Old 07-19-2009, 05:13 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Code05 View Post
A white wire can used for a for more than a neutral. See 200.(7)(C)), and while it should be marked, it rarely is!!!! Be careful.
I keep colored electrical tape on hand to mark white lines as "hot" and you're right, I've never seen it done where it should be.
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Old 07-19-2009, 08:32 PM   #25
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I'm anal when it comes to documentation. If I do anything out of the ordinary or simply something not obvious, I note it! In the case of electrical I put a small note. For example I'm in middle of renovations and some breakers are closed as the wires are exposed/disconnected elsewhere and I put a note as to why it's shut off, and where it goes. The whole panel was never labeled so that will be another project for me to do.

I've seen too many times where something that should of been marked was not, not just in electrical but in my own field (IT).
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Old 07-19-2009, 09:00 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Squirrel View Post
I've seen too many times where something that should of been marked was not, not just in electrical but in my own field (IT).
I suffer from the same kind of problems. I design displays for aircraft. One engineer writes a design description, but never releases it. Four years later your sifting though an old hard drive to find what ever pieces of it you can find to explain how the card worked he had designed, now that he is no longer with the company.................

Last edited by DandHJohn; 07-19-2009 at 09:01 PM. Reason: readability/spelling
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Old 08-07-2009, 02:33 PM   #27
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thekctermite View Post
The 2008 NEC requires all breakers 20amps and under in a residence to be arc fault protected.

That must add alot of cost to newly installed panels. $70 breakers instead of $10 breakers. what about 2 pole 15A breakers with a 3 wire home run. is it doable anymore?
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Old 08-07-2009, 03:13 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Code05 View Post
You are correct. The number of receptacles on a circuit is not defined for residential applications.

Red is commonly used as a 120v supply in resi. and comm. jobs
Hmm, I can't speak for the NEC but I know the CEC(Canadian Electrical Code) goes by rule 12-3000 states that a maximum of 12 outlets may be connected to a circuit. This may consist of 12 light outlets or 12 plug outlets(not appliance plugs) or any combination of the two as long as the total does not exceed 12.
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Old 08-07-2009, 03:52 PM   #29
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Basic codes for houses.... hmmm... There are quite a few of them, perhaps that's why no one has posted concise list. I'll give a few, some already covered.

15 A-14 AWG
20 A-12 AWG
30 A-10 AWG

Plastic nail-on boxes: cables secured within 8" of the box.
Boxes with clamps: cables secured within 12" of the box.
NM cable: secured at least every 54"

Number of conductors allowed in a box per wire size is listed inside the box.

There are alot of others. I haven't covered service equipment and panels, because those things aren't generally DIY topics, and are best addressed on a case by case basis.
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Old 08-07-2009, 06:33 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Squirrel View Post
Another code I just found out recently.

- All outside walls including the ceiling where the attic is above must have plastic boxes and not metal. This is due to potential moisture that could rust out the box, I believe.

I think the creator of this thread and the rest of the folks would appreciate as much accuracy as possible.
If you could provide a code reference such as article # and year instead of a "I believe" it would improve this thread tremendously.

NY Long Island is still working the 2002 code and I've never heard of that ruling. But, I maybe wrong
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