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Old 03-05-2015, 05:16 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Oso954 View Post
That is only true if the entire vent got checked/replaced at the time the new dryer was installed.
I've seen new dryers installed on old vent pipes/flexible tubing too many times where they were never checked or cleaned.
I've ran it w/o the vent connected and it still shuts off.
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Old 03-05-2015, 05:20 PM   #17
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I've ran it w/o the vent connected and it still shuts off.
Does it shut off with the timer still in the cycle? Or has the pointer moved to the off position?

Do you feel comfortable taking off your panel cover?
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Old 03-05-2015, 05:22 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Jump-start View Post
Did you look in the panel or behind the outlet? IF a loose connection exists you will see it or might be able to feel it. Gently wiggle the wires and see if it comes undone or feels loose. Often a poor connection will show signs of overheating or the screw will be discolored.


One possible theory is that when the dryer starts the loose connection heats up, the heat cause the metal to expand and the circuit drops out.
I've double checked all of the connections and they are all good. I can also see the entire run of the wire and it looks fine. No damage to it. I tried turning on everything in the house and still I wasn't able to get any volts across the neutral and ground. I bought a digital multimeter and it read a whopping (0.1) volts. I have not been able to see the volts the repair guy claims were there despite trying for multiple hours.

I was also there reading the volts across the two hots and it read right around 229-234 volts and the dryer cut out after about 10 minutes. No change in the volts anywhere. It also took about 3 minutes before the dryer would restart. I'm beginning to think that this is a dryer problem and not an electrical one.
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Old 03-05-2015, 05:39 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Jump-start View Post
Does it shut off with the timer still in the cycle? Or has the pointer moved to the off position?

Do you feel comfortable taking off your panel cover?
It shuts off in the middle of the time cycle. It also shuts off on the automatic sensor setting. Makes no difference.

I took the panel cover off. Everything looks good as far as I can tell. Tested all the voltage at the panel also. Nothing abnormal and no loose connections.

I noticed the dryer seems to act up more when the clothes are wet. Seems to happen less when I'm checking it w/o a load of laundry in it or one that is already dry. Or maybe its just possessed
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Old 03-05-2015, 05:54 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by arcifix View Post
I've double checked all of the connections and they are all good. I can also see the entire run of the wire and it looks fine. No damage to it. I tried turning on everything in the house and still I wasn't able to get any volts across the neutral and ground. I bought a digital multimeter and it read a whopping (0.1) volts. I have not been able to see the volts the repair guy claims were there despite trying for multiple hours.

I was also there reading the volts across the two hots and it read right around 229-234 volts and the dryer cut out after about 10 minutes. No change in the volts anywhere. It also took about 3 minutes before the dryer would restart. I'm beginning to think that this is a dryer problem and not an electrical one.
Even the outlet?


When the dryer shuts off, if you feel comfortable stick a pigtail socket and 100 watt incandescent bulb from one hot to neutral then second hot to neutral at the outlet. (Do not try hot to hot, bulb might explode) If the bulbs lights chances are its the dryer. Immediately plug the dryer back in and hit start. If the dryer still doesn't turn on odds are screaming dryer.

https://www.google.com/search?q=pigt...38%3B390%3B390
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Old 03-05-2015, 06:18 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Jump-start View Post
Even the outlet?


When the dryer shuts off, if you feel comfortable stick a pigtail socket and 100 watt incandescent bulb from one hot to neutral then second hot to neutral at the outlet. (Do not try hot to hot, bulb might explode) If the bulbs lights chances are its the dryer. Immediately plug the dryer back in and hit start. If the dryer still doesn't turn on odds are screaming dryer.

https://www.google.com/search?q=pigt...38%3B390%3B390
Well I tested the outlet when the dryer wouldn't turn on with my multimeter and it was 120v at both hots to neutral. It took about 3 minutes before the dryer would start back up so I think it is overheating even though the dryer repair guys have swapped out a bunch of parts already. I have them scheduled to come take a look tomorrow morning.

Frustrating that its been over 2 months and my dryer still doesn't work. Then they try to tell me its an electrical problem on my side, but everything I've seen would indicate otherwise. Last time I buy a GE appliance.

Thanks for all the help though. I'll update if I find out more.
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Old 03-05-2015, 07:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by arcifix View Post
Well I tested the outlet when the dryer wouldn't turn on with my multimeter and it was 120v at both hots to neutral. It took about 3 minutes before the dryer would start back up so I think it is overheating even though the dryer repair guys have swapped out a bunch of parts already. I have them scheduled to come take a look tomorrow morning.
If the meter is high impedance like most electronic meters it may still read voltage with an open circuit. Light bulb test is accurate. However, that doesn't rule out the dryer.



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Frustrating that its been over 2 months and my dryer still doesn't work. Then they try to tell me its an electrical problem on my side, but everything I've seen would indicate otherwise. Last time I buy a GE appliance.

Thanks for all the help though. I'll update if I find out more
I hear you. Trust me, Ive had similar issues before. One time it was a furnace that would heat and then go into failure codes. Gas line, electrical, venting, and furnace it self where all suspected and no one could pinpoint which one. Incredibly frustrating.


If the dryer comes back on 3 minutes latter it could be the motor within the dryer. Not unheard of.


If you are looking for a dryer that will never fail go for Speed Queen. They are indestructible and come with a real warrantee:

http://www.speedqueen.com/products/dryers.aspx
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Old 03-05-2015, 09:17 PM   #23
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If you are looking for a dryer that will never fail go for Speed Queen. They are indestructible and come with a real warrantee:

http://www.speedqueen.com/products/dryers.aspx
Yes, the Speed Queens work!
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Old 03-06-2015, 08:29 AM   #24
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Jump out the high limit switch and see if it runs past the critical time.
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Old 03-06-2015, 05:34 PM   #25
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Jump out the high limit switch and see if it runs past the critical time.
Just be careful. If something is tripping within the dryer like a thermal protector bypassing it is not a good idea.
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Old 03-07-2015, 08:56 AM   #26
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Just be careful. If something is tripping within the dryer like a thermal protector bypassing it is not a good idea.
It is a diagnostic measure only. I hook the spade connectors to each other then use an ohm meter on the switch to see if it will trip within the usual time frame.
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Old 03-07-2015, 03:01 PM   #27
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Many newer appliances have too many bells and whistles. I bought a Maytag Neptune washing machine and after a couple of months I was getting an F21 code. Restricted drain. I checked all the pipes inside the machine, made sure the pump was not clogged and even upsized the drain. Still got an F21 code. Called the maytag man and he was there for 2 hours and could not pinpoint the problem. He got frustrated and left. He never billed me. I contacted another repair place and they said the problem could be one of 3 things (they had no idea which it could be) and the fix would be 50% the cost of the machine. If they picked the wrong thing....well.... I dumped the machine and got a simple machine with no bells and whistles and a manual timer. No computer crap. Never goes on the fritz. Anyhow your dryer might have a humidistat that tells the dryer to turn off when the clothes are dry. That sensor may be screwed up and sending a false positive for "dry clothes". There are so many gismos these days and the circuitry is so scientific that the repair people are usually below the curve. Nowadays nobody fixes problems with computer controlled devices at the "board component" level. They replace a whole circuit board that cost you $300.00 bucks or some outrageous price when just a 25 cent resistor or transistor is bad. The board value is probably no more than $50.00. Good luck.
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Old 03-07-2015, 04:51 PM   #28
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Dryer Electrical Question-uploadfromtaptalk1425768600412.jpg

This is what should be used to eliminate false readings for voltage.
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Old 03-07-2015, 05:45 PM   #29
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It is a diagnostic measure only. I hook the spade connectors to each other then use an ohm meter on the switch to see if it will trip within the usual time frame.

I still would not bypass anything completely while running, some things like a motor internal over load are impossible anyway.


In my experience I follow the wiring diagram and connect across suspected wire spades with a voltage wiggy going to various parts or strings of thermostats. That way no device is ever disconnected or has to be accessed directly. When the safety opens the wiggy begins to vibrate.
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