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Old 06-22-2009, 04:08 PM   #1
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Cooper or Leviton GFCI?


hey guys which one do you recommend? I don't really care for the light

I read some of these one draws 1W constantly? I am going to replace all regular receptacles in the kitchen with GFCI.. all 5 of them. (yes I understand downstream is protected already, but it looks more professional)

The thing I have against the cooper is that, it yellows, really, it start to look different from the switch and plate beside it, well maybe because the plate and switch were leviton parts and they don't quite age the same way.

But other than that, no difference which brand I go with right?
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:36 PM   #2
 
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Why not replace the other outlets with the rectangular decorator outlets @ $2.50 each instead. They look like GFCI outlets without the test and reset buttons. I have no complaints with the Cooper GCFI outlets I have, they seem to function as they should.
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Old 06-22-2009, 06:43 PM   #3
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I am hoping the fridge outlet will not be downstream of GFCI, I have a regular outlet there, but I heard fridges can trip the GFCI and ruin the food?

As far as code goes does kitchen outlets just need to be CFCI protected via down stream and not at each individual outlet?
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:22 PM   #4
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I bet they all draw about 1 watt constantly.

I was the one who did the experiment, and it was with a cheap harbor freight GFCI which pulled 1 watt. If someone could test more brands, that would be great. Be careful, they surge enough amps to blow the fuse in a meter when they turn on... I found that out the hard way.
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:50 PM   #5
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I like the LED lights, lets me tell at a glance there is power
If you are going to install all GFCI's then pigtail at the LINE & run power to each outlet. Do not use the LOAD connections

Pic on the right





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Old 06-22-2009, 07:58 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYGST View Post
I am hoping the fridge outlet will not be downstream of GFCI, I have a regular outlet there, but I heard fridges can trip the GFCI and ruin the food?

As far as code goes does kitchen outlets just need to be CFCI protected via down stream and not at each individual outlet?

You can bypass GFCI protecting your refrigerator by using the line side only terminals of the GFCI device.

Cooper, Leviton, same thing. Hubbell GFI's are the best but they don't sell them at HD.
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Old 06-22-2009, 07:59 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by DIYGST View Post
As far as code goes does kitchen outlets just need to be CFCI protected via down stream and not at each individual outlet?
The code only cares that its protected, it doesn't matter where that protection comes from.

There may be some cases where it's easier to wire all the ones that need to be protected as GFCI, such as if you want one to not be protected. An expensive, but easy option. Also if one trips you don't have to hunt.
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:17 PM   #8
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Thanks, I did not know you can do this, one of the things is I do not really want to find what is downstream of what.

So I am assuming there is 2 holes on the "line side" to insert 2 wires each, and the clamp will tighten both of them?



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Originally Posted by Scuba_Dave View Post
I like the LED lights, lets me tell at a glance there is power
If you are going to install all GFCI's then pigtail at the LINE & run power to each outlet. Do not use the LOAD connections

Pic on the right

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Old 06-22-2009, 08:19 PM   #9
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I have Levitron & they have 2 holes for 2 wires



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Old 06-22-2009, 08:21 PM   #10
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So I am assuming there is 2 holes on the "line side" to insert 2 wires each, and the clamp will tighten both of them?
There usually is.
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:29 PM   #11
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My Coopers only light when the GFI is tripped.
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:31 PM   #12
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Is it a red light on trip then?

Mine is a green light



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Old 06-22-2009, 08:39 PM   #13
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replacing [all] five reg. receptacles w. GFCI


Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYGST View Post
hey guys which one do you recommend? I don't really care for the light

I read some of these one draws 1W constantly? [I am going to replace all regular receptacles in the kitchen with GFCI.. all 5 of them. (yes I understand downstream is protected already, but it looks more professional)]

The thing I have against the cooper is that, it yellows, really, it start to look different from the switch and plate beside it, well maybe because the plate and switch were leviton parts and they don't quite age the same way.

But other than that, no difference which brand I go with right?
Not only is it unnecessary. As you stated yourself. "I understand that all the outlets downstream are protected already". It won't work! I've straightened out jobs where someone tried what you suggested. As far as the brand. I believe (generally) all Leviton products are of a higher quality than some of the other brands!Don't Drink and Drive!!!
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:44 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by spark plug View Post
I believe (generally) all Leviton products are of a higher quality than some of the other brands!
See, now I feel the opposite.
Leviton's resi grade stuff is basically junk IMO. ESPECIALLY their GFIs. I can't stand them.
I have gone to Cooper for pretty much all my devices and cord caps. I think the quality is great.
As far as spec grade stuff both are acceptable.

I use mostly spec grade receptacles and resi grade switches.
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Old 06-22-2009, 08:47 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey48 View Post
[My Coopers only light when the GFI is tripped.]
Different brands (and time of manufacture) will light for different reasons. Some will light only when miswired. (light/load switched around) Others will light when wired correctly!Don't Drink and Drive!!!
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