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Old 05-19-2010, 11:42 AM   #1
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Coaxial Adapter Behind Wall


My search-fu has failed me, and I'm hoping to find some guidance here. My girlfriend bought a house and the cable jack is in a strange spot on the wall in the living room. We are in the process of a non-invasive remodel, and are preparing for paint. Before we do so, I wanted to shift the cable jack down the wall a bit, to where the TV will be, to avoid the coax running along the basebaord. After some investigation, there some solid framing running through the attic where the existing coax drops down. A hole was drilled and the coax was run down the wall, which is an exterior one. Based on box in the wall where the jack is, this was run during construction. I had initially planned on dropping the line down between another pair of studs, but because of the stout framing and me not being very sure what's inside the exterior wall(bracing, insulation, Jimmy Hoffa) I'm afraid to pull the old wire and be stuck not being able to drop the line. I could knock out some extra drywall to see what's going on, but my taping skills arent that hot. Because of this, I moved to plan B. Plan B involves extending the coax that ends at the box by way of a F/F adapter, and continuing the coax to the baseboard, run it along the baseboard, and create a new jack with an old work box.

Now, on to my question. Can I close the extender/adapter behind the wall, leaving it inside the old outlet box? Am I safer to put a dead plate over the adapter instead of drywall, in case I ever need access? Should I be concerned with signal loss? Any other suggestions?

Thanks, from the noob.

Craig
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Old 05-19-2010, 11:57 AM   #2
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What you are doing is considered "low voltage", which gives you quite a bit of leeway you don't have with electrical.

Yes, you can do all that you proposed - here are a couple other ideas:

Us a surface chaseway from Wiremold to run the cable directly across the wall instead of down and up, then put it into a surface mount box.

If this is an interior wall, I would do this:
Pick a spot that would be best for the cable outlet behind the TV... and unless you sit your TV on the floor don't put your hole within 12" of the floor like power outlets are. Consider putting it at 3' off the floor. it will be covered by the stand and TV anyway.

Cut open the 2"x4" hole you will need. Looking up from that hole, you will see a horizontal piece of wood called fireblocking. Get a 3/4" spade drillbit with hex fitting and a couple of bit extenders and drill a hole in this. Drill down from your top plate too. Find the bottom hole by sticking a wire down from above and taping it around until you get it through.

Run new RG6 cable back to the point where your cable service starts. This will give you the best signal quality.
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Old 05-19-2010, 12:54 PM   #3
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Don't forget to use 75 ohm terminations on unused coax ends.
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Old 05-19-2010, 01:08 PM   #4
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I did this when i hung my flat screen on the wall. I put a 1 to 2 way splitter in the wall and ran 1 co-ax up to the flat screen (with a terminal on the wall) and ran the other to the existing wall plate. Unless you are a complete hifi-junky you will not notice any difference. I did mine with all the parts you get at a HD or a radio shack.
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Old 05-19-2010, 01:14 PM   #5
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Interesting... I remember using 50ohm terminations back when I networked with RG58 BNC, but I had never heard nor seen anything for cable TV connections.
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Old 05-19-2010, 03:17 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxPaulCPxx View Post
Interesting... I remember using 50ohm terminations back when I networked with RG58 BNC, but I had never heard nor seen anything for cable TV connections.
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Old 05-19-2010, 03:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xxPaulCPxx View Post
Interesting... I remember using 50ohm terminations back when I networked with RG58 BNC, but I had never heard nor seen anything for cable TV connections.
If a coax is not terminated in its Characteristic Impedance you get reflections. It's at least good practice.
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Old 05-19-2010, 10:09 PM   #8
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Thanks all. I'm not so much worried about the wiring but the adapter. Am I better to play it safe and put a dead plate over where the adapter is for access, in case something goes wrong. Or is it safe to seal it off with some drywall? I'd love to run one clean line from the source, but dont have the stomach to fish around a line in the exterior wall. I just cut out the drywall behins the baseboard, and plan to run the line down the inside of the wall from the existing jack, across the bottom of the drywall, and punch back up between the studs to the new jack.

EDIT: Just started to disconnect everything to run the wire. It seems that the original wire that was dropped down from the attic was cut off just inside the box. In it's place, it appears the last person to run wire punched through the exterior wall from the attic, ran the wire down the outside of the house, and then punched back in to the pre-existing box. I'm not big on compromising exterior walls for sport, so I'm going to stick with the adapter in existing box, utilizing a run under the drywall. Can't justify punching more holes in the clapboard at this point. When the time comes that I need to replace the clapboard, I'll consider punching new wires through the walls at that time, and running a direct shot from the source to the new outlet. Then, I can patch and fill the existing outlet hole. For now, we're going with a blank cover and F/F adapter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xxPaulCPxx View Post
Cut open the 2"x4" hole you will need. Looking up from that hole, you will see a horizontal piece of wood called fireblocking. Get a 3/4" spade drillbit with hex fitting and a couple of bit extenders and drill a hole in this. Drill down from your top plate too. Find the bottom hole by sticking a wire down from above and taping it around until you get it through.

Run new RG6 cable back to the point where your cable service starts. This will give you the best signal quality.
I had seriously contemplated this, but I'm on an exterior wall and am worried about insulation, framing support/crossmembers, and whatever other surprises I'm not considering.

Last edited by TellyDSP; 05-19-2010 at 10:37 PM.
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Old 05-20-2010, 10:38 AM   #9
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I would not seal it up, just in case the connector itself goes bad somehow. You can just put a blank faceplate over the hole.
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