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Old 05-21-2010, 09:46 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by HammerTime21 View Post
the voltage at the light coming out wire connected was 120,on and zero off. disconnected it was 120 on and 46 off.

if I connect red/black and white all at the box (switch) shall I leave all hooked up in the ceiling as should be? YES

Thank you
sorry for being a pain. I'm not a novice but not an expert and this is very puzzling..
damned dimmer /trimmers and 3 wire.. lol
Not to worry about being a pain! I'm watching a good ball game on the TV and am not going anywhere!
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Old 05-22-2010, 11:38 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Wildie View Post
Not to worry about being a pain! I'm watching a good ball game on the TV and am not going anywhere!
If wiring all three at the switch works.. what is my next plan of attack?
Suggestions?

Also : If I have a florescent light with 4 ft tubes that doenst light up for some 2 or 3 mins and another that doesnt at all but has proper wiring. Would the transformer be the issue? She tried replacing the bulbs..

Thanks
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:20 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HammerTime21 View Post
If wiring all three at the switch works.. what is my next plan of attack?
Suggestions?

Also : If I have a florescent light with 4 ft tubes that doenst light up for some 2 or 3 mins and another that doesnt at all but has proper wiring. Would the transformer be the issue? She tried replacing the bulbs..

Thanks
If wiring the blk,red and white together at the switch box energizes the light an the fan, and given that you have made correct wiring connections, its likely a defective control and I would return it for another!

As for the fluorescent lights, have a close look at the sockets ( tomb stones, as one wag suggested) they sometimes become dirty or carbonized (?) .
You may have to buy new ones!
Proper grounding of the fixture itself is necessary also! Capacitance between the lamp and the reflector effects the ionization of the lamp gases and may be part of your problem.
Usually ballasts either work or don't work, although electronic ballasts may behave differently!
I have had limited experience with e-ballasts, so can't advise you with these!
One thing to know, is that flourescent lamps have filaments at each end that are heated with about 6 vac. You could measure from contact to contact in the socket and verify that the ballast is supplying this filament voltage!
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Old 05-22-2010, 12:39 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wildie View Post
If wiring the blk,red and white together at the switch box energizes the light an the fan, and given that you have made correct wiring connections, its likely a defective control and I would return it for another!

As for the fluorescent lights, have a close look at the sockets ( tomb stones, as one wag suggested) they sometimes become dirty or carbonized (?) .
You may have to buy new ones!
Proper grounding of the fixture itself is necessary also! Capacitance between the lamp and the reflector effects the ionization of the lamp gases and may be part of your problem.
Usually ballasts either work or don't work, although electronic ballasts may behave differently!
I have had limited experience with e-ballasts, so can't advise you with these!
One thing to know, is that flourescent lamps have filaments at each end that are heated with about 6 vac. You could measure from contact to contact in the socket and verify that the ballast is supplying this filament voltage!

The florescents seem normal so I doubt they are Ebalast.. The one comes on but it seems slower by the week, once on it's fine. the other dosent come on at all. I will investigate further.. Heading out to tackle the ceiling fan/light monster...
thanks
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Old 05-29-2010, 11:26 AM   #20
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Now you know that your light and fan are working properly!

The next step is to reconnect the fan/light to the 14/3.

When dealing with dimmers using a voltmeter is confusing because the power is varied by changing the wave form, rather than raising and lowering the voltage. Voltmeters are designed to respond to sinusoidal wave shapes and as the power level is lowered, the wave shape changes. The result being inaccurate readings.
Its best to use an incandescent lamp tester, to get a better view of whats happening!
One other thing that you could try is to wirenut the red/black and white together at the switch location. Then, when you switch on the power both the light and fan should energize. Just to prove that the 14/3 is good. (and your fan/light connections)
Ok, pardon the time,, I wired all 3 red/white/black together at the wall swith and the fan/light energize perfectly.
I would imagine this leads me to a faulty dimmer trimmer???
i doubt i received a bad one but one never knows.
Thanks
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Old 05-29-2010, 03:55 PM   #21
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From what I am reading your connection should be as follows:

At fan outlet box: Black from panel to white from 14-3 (use black tape to identify), white from panel to white from fan/light, red from 14-3 to blue from light and black from 14-3 to black from fan

At switch: White taped black from 14-3 to black from switch, black from 14-3 to blue from switch, red from 14-3 to red from switch

all green and bare connected and attached to boxes
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Old 05-30-2010, 07:07 PM   #22
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Like I said in post #7. Your dimmer could be bad.
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Old 05-30-2010, 11:28 PM   #23
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It appears that the dimmer is defective. A final check with an incandescent test lamp is the next and final step.
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