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Old 09-14-2015, 10:13 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron6519 View Post
From the information supplied at that point, that was the advice. No mention of an entire zone leaking. It was one head. Water can leak out of one head on a zone if the parts have been damaged or not put in correctly.
It is just this one part of the one where the Tee is formed all other heads are ok.
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Old 09-14-2015, 10:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle2k View Post
I don't know how replacing a section is going to stop water from draining out...

If this is a low spot in the run, gravity will take any remaining water that is in the line to this spot.
Thanks, what confuses me is that even when zone is off the water is still flowing out when assembly is laying down. It is a little low within this section of the backyard....but the other head couple feet away is not leaking out water.
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Old 09-14-2015, 10:36 PM   #18
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Before you remove the leaking part:
Shut off the water to the sprinkler system to see if the water stops flowing.
Are any other heads on this zone leaking? Leaking could be soft spots around each head on the zone.
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Old 09-15-2015, 07:29 AM   #19
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You can do as Ron suggests. You'll need to wait for the residual pressure to drain off. You can also check your water meter. With everything off, watch the meter and see if it spins. If it does, you have a leak.

Have you run this zone since you found the leak? Cycling it might fix the valve. You're going to need to find the valve box to fix this if it really is leaking and it's not residual water draining out of this head.
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Old 09-16-2015, 05:51 AM   #20
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Just to chime in... When you do find the valve, the presumed leak will be from a damaged or obstructed diaphragm inside the valve itself. With most valves I've seen you just unscrew the top (carefully) and remove the rubber diaphragm, then either replace with new one or give it and the valve body a good thorough rinse to remove the debris obstructing the seal. The diaphragm should come off easily, but if it's stuck on there, that's usually an indication that it's been in there for a while and has corroded, and now it's time for a new one. You'll probably have to pry it off of the valve body with a blade or flathead anyway which will likely cause a small cut where water will continue to leak from if you try to reuse it.

Of course, this is assuming that there is a leak at the valve. Since you mentioned that only one sprinkler head has what appears to be a leak--most noticeably when it's "laying down" (on it's side?)--I would be inclined to say it's just low head drainage and the pipes are just emptying out the residual water via that sprinkler head because it's the lowest one. However, it shouldn't take very long for the water to drain out, so if water is still seeping out with the sprinkler on its side after 20 min, then yeah, it's the diaphragm. If it eventually stops (you might wanna wait it out overnight to be sure), then the sprinkler will have to be raised so that it's even with the rest of the sprinklers. This will prevent the drainage issue as well as air getting sucked into the pipes through the other sprinkler nozzles as the water drains out. Air in the pipes = water hammer when the sprinkler turns back on = more leaks eventually. So if you get a lot of air spraying out of the sprinklers when they first start up, you know it's a low head drainage issue.

This actually reminded me of something though that I've been wondering about. Recently, I was doing some irrigation repairs and I had what appeared to be a lone leaky pop-up sprinkler. I thought it was low head drainage at first, and since I was just about to take my lunch, I didn't feel like digging a big hole to extend it higher, so for some reason I just unscrewed it at the base and swapped it with a taller pop-up body that I had on hand (I was probably thinking 'what difference does it make if I raise the line or the sprinkler head?') And when I did, I noticed the water slowly rise up and then stop just shy of thy top. And the water stayed there for the entire hour I was on my lunch break. When I put the smaller sprinkler head back on, it continued to run. So I reasoned that it was a leak at the valve, by wondered why the shorter sprinkler leaked while the taller one didn't? I still don't have an answer for that, but my guess is that the weight of the water itself in the taller sprinkler body is equalizing the pressure. But, the static pressure at the source is close to 45psi, so I'm wondering if all the water in the pipe downstream of the valve is putting that much weight on it and keeping the taller sprinkler from leaking. The difference in height between the pop-ups is only 8" or so though, so it's not a substantial difference in water weight. If it is exactly 45 lbs, is this just a coincidence?? Or a careful calculation?? Or none of the above and I'm just trippin on PVC glue?

Sorry, didn't mean to hijack the thread... I did have a way to tie that in with the OP's discussion, but I can't remember what it was.... Oh that's right, the sprinkler having a pronounced leak when it's laying down on its side versus when it's upright and vertical---it sounds a little similar to phenomenon I was dealing with, doesn't it? Is water weight in the pipes a common factor that get's considered all that often? All I know about irrigation has been learned through trial and error for the most part. I never really got into the more academic stuff with flow rates and math and whatnot, but maybe someone else will come along who can answer that. Assuming he/she reads this far into my stream of consciousness post...

TL;DR version: Replace diaphragm when you find valve. Consider raising the height on problem sprinkler or consider getting a taller sprinkler(?) Find someone who can confirm or deny the possibility of water weight counteracting a leak at the valve... phew!

Last edited by JustScrewIt; 09-16-2015 at 06:03 AM.
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Old 09-20-2015, 01:40 AM   #21
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Hi guys, I found this under what I believe to be the sprinkler valve box for the affected zone. I do notice a wire not connected to anything hopefully you can also see it.

Thanks
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Old 09-20-2015, 03:56 AM   #22
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Those Wirenuts are supposed to have the gel inside to keep out water and dirt. It may be that those wires are corroded and you need to clean everything up. That would include digging out that dirt, then placing stone in the bottom, to keep the dirt out, along with using waterproof connectors to join the wires.



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Old 09-20-2015, 05:23 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by gregzoll View Post
Those Wirenuts are supposed to have the gel inside to keep out water and dirt. It may be that those wires are corroded and you need to clean everything up. That would include digging out that dirt, then placing stone in the bottom, to keep the dirt out, along with using waterproof connectors to join the wires.

Wrong.
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Old 09-20-2015, 05:25 AM   #24
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Quote:
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Hi guys, I found this under what I believe to be the sprinkler valve box for the affected zone. I do notice a wire not connected to anything hopefully you can also see it.



Thanks

That's a junction box for your wiring. Keep looking. There should be one or more with pipes and wires.
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Old 09-20-2015, 07:37 AM   #25
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Thanks guys what about that loose wire? Is there anyway to tell what it is or where it goes?
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Old 09-20-2015, 08:37 AM   #26
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Thanks guys what about that loose wire? Is there anyway to tell what it is or where it goes?
The loose wire is likely extra. Each colored wire corresponds to a zone plus a black common wire. You have less zones than wires that were in the cable.

Were you have to try the water on/off tests?
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Old 09-20-2015, 03:21 PM   #27
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Got to loosen out assembly and water is coming out of Tee, so I think assembly was ok. I will shut off sprinkler main value today as if I was going to winterize system and try to run that zone again to see what happens. This is the only sprinkler 1/3 that has this issue. Them again the is the only one with the Tee connection.
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Old 09-20-2015, 03:29 PM   #28
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I can't think of any reason why having a Tee in the line would make water flow in that particular spot unless of course one leg of the Tee is connected to a separate valve/water suppy line that isn't closed/turned off all the way.
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Old 09-20-2015, 03:37 PM   #29
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Wrong.

Why is this wrong? Don't the wingnuts indicate where the solenoids connect to the common wire? And so wouldnt the valves be underneath all that dirt and crud where the ends of one arm of the connection go to the solenoid?

And isn't the common wire typically white?
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Old 09-20-2015, 04:31 PM   #30
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Why is this wrong? Don't the wingnuts indicate where the solenoids connect to the common wire? And so wouldnt the valves be underneath all that dirt and crud where the ends of one arm of the connection go to the solenoid?

And isn't the common wire typically white?
You're correct. The common is typically white. Thanks for the correction.

Greg goes overboard with his advice often times is completely wrong and unsafe. There's no need for gel filled wire nuts or stone in an irrigation valve box.
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